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Transmission failure 2005 2,8 crd


ivarens
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Sorry but a lot more information is required to even guess what's happened - any OBD codes ? You say won't drive either way (assume forward and reverse ) but state less jumping in forward mode - please clarify. Is selection working correctly i.e. P R N 3 2 1 illuminating correctly ? Year, model, mileage - service history ? How long have you had the vehicle ?? 

Will try to help but there are many variables with the transmission.

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Thanks for the answer. Here are some information

It's a 2005 GV,  235.000 km, no OBD-codes yet...hard to get, had this car now  for 5 years, hadde a fuel pump issue solved 3 years ago with cutting out at acceleration. Service history is poor, but done properly in my time. 

The behaviour now is almost the same as with the cutting out, but then the engine stopped and had to be restarted. Now the engine runs ok! Feels like its jumping out of gear if fitted with a manual gearbox. After two weeks with no use it has  become much worse so to speak as it started "jumping" when rpm increased both forward and  much more in reverse. As a consequense I now suspect the transmission in some way. 

Oil level checked to be ok. A little brownish colour though. 

I suppose I need OBD - codes to start with, but have no suitable instrument at this time. A lokal workshop has one, but must bring the car o them, and thats a challenge. 

I'm no expert, but as a Chrysler ovner there is always something "going on". 

Hopefully, this info can help figuering out the next step to get the Chrysler on the road again.

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You could well be unlucky and yes the transmission has given up, but maybe not.

Possibly start with clutching at straws, a fluid change, and maybe Lucas transmission additive, it's supposed to help with older boxes and the clutch parts.

On the OBD reading, there are now very cheap little boxes on ebay that work, plug in to the port and it sets up a local wifi field. Load the app and you're good to go! It will read loads of parameters and the codes, not sure on a GV if it would read transmission codes, it did on my Subaru of the same year, but that doesn't mean a thing with Chrysler! Obviously it won't do some stuff, but they are CHEAP, so well worth a try. I paid around £10, yes that's not a typo, TEN POUNDS.

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10 hours ago, bignev said:

You could well be unlucky and yes the transmission has given up, but maybe not.

Possibly start with clutching at straws, a fluid change, and maybe Lucas transmission additive, it's supposed to help with older boxes and the clutch parts.

On the OBD reading, there are now very cheap little boxes on ebay that work, plug in to the port and it sets up a local wifi field. Load the app and you're good to go! It will read loads of parameters and the codes, not sure on a GV if it would read transmission codes, it did on my Subaru of the same year, but that doesn't mean a thing with Chrysler! Obviously it won't do some stuff, but they are CHEAP, so well worth a try. I paid around £10, yes that's not a typo, TEN POUNDS.

Thanks a lot, my friend!  New filter has been ordered. Also correct ATF oil will be refilled.

I'ĺl keep you informed of any progress in fixing this problem.

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On 5/19/2023 at 2:57 PM, RichardM said:

Sorry but a lot more information is required to even guess what's happened - any OBD codes ? You say won't drive either way (assume forward and reverse ) but state less jumping in forward mode - please clarify. Is selection working correctly i.e. P R N 3 2 1 illuminating correctly ? Year, model, mileage - service history ? How long have you had the vehicle ?? 

Will try to help but there are many variables with the transmission.

OBD scanner to be ordered tomorrow. 

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On 5/20/2023 at 10:51 PM, ivarens said:

OBD scanner to be ordered tomorrow. 

Well, gearbox gone, lots of metal fragments in bottom tray. Not repairable at moderate Costs.

Next question: will any generation IV gearbox fit in. That is from both diesel and gas engines?

I can find out what gearbox i have, but how to be sure a used one will fit in exactly??

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If metal particles are in the tray, this is not a good sign. Need to take gearbox off and look inside. You most probably have 41TE, A604 gearbox. Very popular gearbox in USA and Chrysler have stopped producing them only recently, 5 years ago or so. Plenty of second hand gearboxes available on e-bay, but I would recommend to put properly checked and reconditioned one. Another option is to buy second hand and repair kit with friction discs and to make one out of two. This is what I did. Also Torque converter need to be opened and reconditioned, if you want to do this job properly.

I have been through this process myself twice. Second time was my own fault as I haven't noticed faulty needle bearing. Gearbox itself is very simple, if you can follow simple procedures, there are plenty of information on You tube and in general with instructions and manuals. A lot of circlips to take out and put back. :) 

I'm in the process of reconditioning another gearbox unit for my Chrysler now, so, next time gearbox is broken, I have ready unit to put in. :)

Good question regarding using gearbox from petrol engine. I'm confident that gearbox from petrol 3.3 engine is the same as on 2.8 diesel, except gear ratios. It means that gearbox from petrol engine will work, but gears will change at different speeds (higher rpms). The only thing you need to check is electric connection on plug and pipe connections for oil cooler. All the fittings and everything else is the same. I have seen the post (possibly on this website) that guy did it on his diesel voyager and it worked well and he was very happy.

Good luck with your project! :)

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18 hours ago, Sergejs said:

If metal particles are in the tray, this is not a good sign. Need to take gearbox off and look inside. You most probably have 41TE, A604 gearbox. Very popular gearbox in USA and Chrysler have stopped producing them only recently, 5 years ago or so. Plenty of second hand gearboxes available on e-bay, but I would recommend to put properly checked and reconditioned one. Another option is to buy second hand and repair kit with friction discs and to make one out of two. This is what I did. Also Torque converter need to be opened and reconditioned, if you want to do this job properly.

I have been through this process myself twice. Second time was my own fault as I haven't noticed faulty needle bearing. Gearbox itself is very simple, if you can follow simple procedures, there are plenty of information on You tube and in general with instructions and manuals. A lot of circlips to take out and put back. :) 

I'm in the process of reconditioning another gearbox unit for my Chrysler now, so, next time gearbox is broken, I have ready unit to put in. :)

Good question regarding using gearbox from petrol engine. I'm confident that gearbox from petrol 3.3 engine is the same as on 2.8 diesel, except gear ratios. It means that gearbox from petrol engine will work, but gears will change at different speeds (higher rpms). The only thing you need to check is electric connection on plug and pipe connections for oil cooler. All the fittings and everything else is the same. I have seen the post (possibly on this website) that guy did it on his diesel voyager and it worked well and he was very happy.

Good luck with your project! :)

Thanks a lot for valuable information! I will follow your advice about getting a properly checked one and also the converter - (really necessary?) Oil with metal in it is no good - should  the cooler be flushed also? I suppose the smaller pieces have been circulating for some time.

i suppose i can  fix the job except the opening up of the box and the converter. maybe its rather simple, but first time it will be...

Thanks again! 

I'll innform you on progress.

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Torque converter is weak chain link on these transmissions. You will be taking it off together with the gearbox anyway. Besides, there could be inside some debris and metal particles too. If you don't want to take off transmission in near future again, I would strongly recommend to do torque converter as well. This is normal practice.  You cant open it yourself. You need to take it off and send to someone, who can professionally cut it, restore everything inside, weld it back and balance. I have contacts here in UK (cost me 250 GBP), but in Norway there must be some companies too. Yes, you need to wash somehow your cooler as well. You obviously cant use the water. I don't actually know how you can flush it properly. Maybe with diesel fuel, but it is messy job. Theoretically, filter should have been keeping all the metal particles, but you never know. There could be aluminium dust as well. Personally, I have replaced my original cooler with Chinese aftermarket one, which I bought on e-bay for 40GBP. I have attached it to the original cooler with clips, there is enough space. Have done about 10 th. miles and it is working very well, oil temperature was never higher than 80C. Had to modify pipes connections though. 

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Good advice from Sergejs. Thank You!

Cooler hopefully can be flushed since oil runs in pipes and pipes are connected to cooling ribs. Debris should come out.

As for the converter, there is either a repair or a new one. Checking out that issue. 

I'll be back for final info and hopefully a car on the road again.

Btw, a transmission from a 3,3 l petrol engine is available. Gear ratio difference, but will work(?)

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