Grand Voyager 2.8 crd Cutting out

[aquawolfy]

Hey guys, as seen before, my 2007 grand voyager 2.8 CRD finally got the cutting out issue, I first checked my fuel pressure valve because I was having some really bad start, which found out was leaking as hell, replaced it and still didn't do the job, I was still having a hard time starting. Checked my Fuel filter housing, which was also leaking from the heater element... got that and boom bingo, solved my bad start but got me the infamous cutting out issue.... So, above 2k5 rpm with my foot down the accelerator my engine just cut off instantly and I cannot restart it straight away I need to turn the ignition completely off and then switching it on again, it starts right away. I need no mention that I have ZERO absolute DTC stored, I've unplugged my boost solenoid, same problem, I've checked my return lines on my injectors all of them are ok. I also have idle problem only cold tho, It surges only cold, when at operating temps it disapears, idk if this could be related.... As said I've changed, my fuel filter, my filter housing, checked my injectors, checked my air filter, cam sensor, boost sensor, nothing does it.... I'm in despair, please help me....

Edited May 13, 2023 by aquawolfy

[RichardM]

Looks like you've done an awful lot of work. At least it sounds as if things are gettig better if not yet perfect (Question to the whole community, does anyone have a perfect GV ?? - is there such a beast ??

Anyway, you mentioned changing the cam sensor - there may be mileage in changing the crank sensor (or testing it if you have the facilities. Have read on a forum somewhere that it can cause these types of problem whilst the EMS thinks it's in range.

Also, check the fuel pressure sensor and fuel regulator solenoid.., and if that isn't enough,similar problems can occur with the O2 sensor, though this will I believe throw a OBD error. 

[aquawolfy]

22 hours ago, RichardM said:

Looks like you've done an awful lot of work. At least it sounds as if things are gettig better if not yet perfect (Question to the whole community, does anyone have a perfect GV ?? - is there such a beast ??

Anyway, you mentioned changing the cam sensor - there may be mileage in changing the crank sensor (or testing it if you have the facilities. Have read on a forum somewhere that it can cause these types of problem whilst the EMS thinks it's in range.

Also, check the fuel pressure sensor and fuel regulator solenoid.., and if that isn't enough,similar problems can occur with the O2 sensor, though this will I believe throw a OBD error. 

These GV's keep getting problems lol, I almost spent a whole week trying to fix it...., I will look into the crank sensor as it could potentially be the problem, fuel pressure sensor was changed a year ago and I tested my fuel solenoid today by unplugging it and starting the car, it threw directly a check engine light + the car stalled as intended, it also went into "limp" mode as in results I don't think it's at fault. ( Removed everything with my Delphi) 

[RichardM]

You're a busy person (politically correct) - remember the sensor feeds the ECU which feeds a modulating sq. wave to the solenoid, if you've got a scope then make sure you're getting the pulsed wave when cold, sensors have a nasty habit of being sensitive to temperature. Understand the crank sensr is a bitch to change on RHD GVs - let us know how you get on. Oh the week, small price to pay, I've been trying to sort mine out  (on and off) for two years + .

[aquawolfy]

On 5/15/2023 at 12:14 PM, RichardM said:

You're a busy person (politically correct) - remember the sensor feeds the ECU which feeds a modulating sq. wave to the solenoid, if you've got a scope then make sure you're getting the pulsed wave when cold, sensors have a nasty habit of being sensitive to temperature. Understand the crank sensr is a bitch to change on RHD GVs - let us know how you get on. Oh the week, small price to pay, I've been trying to sort mine out  (on and off) for two years + .

Hey, just came back from a long ride and seems like temperature doesn't matter at all, I got the car over 2500rpm, I just wasn't full on the throttle, but as soon as I step on it really hard it dies as soon as it reaches 2500rpm... I think it would either be injectors or the fuel pump.... quick question, would a blocked wastegate throw the car into limp mode? I was thinking of it because it feels like it's building boost, and at 2500rpm it produce " too much" boost and just cut out for safety? I'm just guessing to be honest... I'm getting a bit annoyed lol


edit: My GV is LHD so I think It'd be easier for me to do a crank sensor

 

Edited May 16, 2023 by aquawolfy

[bignev]

Hi guys!

In answer to the question, does anyone have a perfect GV? We had one close to it, a 2002 3.3 petrol. Bought it at 10 years old, 66,000 miles, one owner, proper full service records. The LX low spec model....

So, for 3 years, mint!! Then it had a little electronic fall out with the TCM and BCM. In short, never bottomed it. Had second gear, reverse, neutral and park. Then ot went for parts.

On this subject, is the turbo inlet pipe rubber? Or any on the inlet side?

If so , check it hasn't de-laminated and on full boost - read suction - is collapsing in on itself. I've heard of it a couple of times on other cars. This will obviously not give any fault codes as nothing electronic has gone tits up. There is usually a MAF sensor (air flow rate) on the inlet side, a MAP sensor for the positive side (Manifold Absolute Presuure), and boost pressure sensors. But not usually anything to sense the suction side negative pressure......

Edited May 17, 2023 by bignev

[RichardM]

If the wastegate is blocked you should get an error code - I did, cannot remember the code - sorry.

 

[ivarens]

On 5/13/2023 at 10:03 PM, aquawolfy said:

Hey guys, as seen before, my 2007 grand voyager 2.8 CRD finally got the cutting out issue, I first checked my fuel pressure valve because I was having some really bad start, which found out was leaking as hell, replaced it and still didn't do the job, I was still having a hard time starting. Checked my Fuel filter housing, which was also leaking from the heater element... got that and boom bingo, solved my bad start but got me the infamous cutting out issue.... So, above 2k5 rpm with my foot down the accelerator my engine just cut off instantly and I cannot restart it straight away I need to turn the ignition completely off and then switching it on again, it starts right away. I need no mention that I have ZERO absolute DTC stored, I've unplugged my boost solenoid, same problem, I've checked my return lines on my injectors all of them are ok. I also have idle problem only cold tho, It surges only cold, when at operating temps it disapears, idk if this could be related.... As said I've changed, my fuel filter, my filter housing, checked my injectors, checked my air filter, cam sensor, boost sensor, nothing does it.... I'm in despair, please help me....

Check out the HP fuel pump. Cheap repair as there is rater common that three steel balls that closes return fuel as pump rotates, get worn out. That is, getting smaller and are stuck for a split second so pressure falls and engine is cutting out. This is what an expert on diesel-electro told me. 

Some work though, getting the pump out...

[aquawolfy]

10 hours ago, ivarens said:

Check out the HP fuel pump. Cheap repair as there is rater common that three steel balls that closes return fuel as pump rotates, get worn out. That is, getting smaller and are stuck for a split second so pressure falls and engine is cutting out. This is what an expert on diesel-electro told me. 

Some work though, getting the pump out...

I'll check it, do you have the reference of those three steel balls just in case? How can you check them if they're worn out? measurements? 

[aquawolfy]

On 5/19/2023 at 3:02 PM, RichardM said:

If the wastegate is blocked you should get an error code - I did, cannot remember the code - sorry.

 

yup, that's what I thought, what about the oil pressure sensor? I forgot to mention but since I bought it I got my oil pressure sensor light on, but at first it didn't cut the engine above 2500 rpms tho...

[bignev]

On my petrol engine, that has an oil pressure switch, not sensor, so it's either happy or not, it doesn't read the pressure it just makes the circuit if it reaches the pre set value. Till it fails!!

And of course it did. Got more likely to put the light on over a few weeks, but I knew the oil pump was working, as the oil level on the dipstick dropped lots when the engine was running, so I didn't panic! 

I don't know where it is on the diesel, sadly. Easy ish on mine, front of block behind rad.

[aquawolfy]

7 hours ago, bignev said:

On my petrol engine, that has an oil pressure switch, not sensor, so it's either happy or not, it doesn't read the pressure it just makes the circuit if it reaches the pre set value. Till it fails!!

And of course it did. Got more likely to put the light on over a few weeks, but I knew the oil pump was working, as the oil level on the dipstick dropped lots when the engine was running, so I didn't panic! 

I don't know where it is on the diesel, sadly. Easy ish on mine, front of block behind rad.

My bad, it is indeed a pressure switch, it sits behind the engine on the exhaust side on these diesel models.

[aquawolfy]

On 5/17/2023 at 9:34 PM, bignev said:

Hi guys!

In answer to the question, does anyone have a perfect GV? We had one close to it, a 2002 3.3 petrol. Bought it at 10 years old, 66,000 miles, one owner, proper full service records. The LX low spec model....

So, for 3 years, mint!! Then it had a little electronic fall out with the TCM and BCM. In short, never bottomed it. Had second gear, reverse, neutral and park. Then ot went for parts.

On this subject, is the turbo inlet pipe rubber? Or any on the inlet side?

If so , check it hasn't de-laminated and on full boost - read suction - is collapsing in on itself. I've heard of it a couple of times on other cars. This will obviously not give any fault codes as nothing electronic has gone tits up. There is usually a MAF sensor (air flow rate) on the inlet side, a MAP sensor for the positive side (Manifold Absolute Presuure), and boost pressure sensors. But not usually anything to sense the suction side negative pressure......

oh my god, I actually didn't think about the boost pipe collapsing on itself, I checked my fuel pressure solenoid ( the one on the pump itself) and it does work flawlessly, I actually think that the pump itself is brand new it's still shiny and have loctite marks on the screws. and have no dirt or anything on it whatsoever, I could be wrong, I need to check the bills from the previous owner....

Edited May 22, 2023 by aquawolfy

[aquawolfy]

Hey guys, just a quick notification, I forgot that my ORIGINAL fuel rail relief valve made the car work over 2500 rpms, but i had really hard cold start with it. BUT with my new relief valve, the car starts perfectly but have the 2500 rpm cut off problem.... checked glow plugs today they're all good. 

 

[aquawolfy]

edit: Just checked by refitting my old fuel rail relief valve, it works as long as I don't put an immense loads on it : big hill and stepping into it, otherwise it still cuts out, soooo back to square one again.... do you guys know how much "push" the front filter primer needs, to be hard?

Edited May 30, 2023 by aquawolfy

[RichardM]

sorry for delay, been on other duties.... and notifications seem to have seized up.

To answer your question, a bloody lot -ripped knuckles guaranteed and this is on a new filter housing. Can not be any more specific cause I don't need to do this very often these days (grateful for small mercies)

[aquawolfy]

On 6/23/2023 at 8:34 PM, RichardM said:

sorry for delay, been on other duties.... and notifications seem to have seized up.

To answer your question, a bloody lot -ripped knuckles guaranteed and this is on a new filter housing. Can not be any more specific cause I don't need to do this very often these days (grateful for small mercies)

Hey, thanks for getting back to me even tho it's been a long time, I just abandoned my Chrysler for now, I'm focusing on other things, I should get a second injector return test this weekend and we'll see from there... I'm more and more thinking about my fuel pump, seems like air into fuel causing my weird idle + cutting out, I will keep you guys updated in the future