The Button Mod Question - CGV 2.8 CDR 2005.

[stevesmp]

Happy New Year everyone.

Over the last few days I have been reading over Leedsman "Button Mod" suggestion, following continual battery issues which I believe are likely cause by "lifestyles choices". I have had the vehicle from new and 65k on the clock.

The battery tray mod was undertaken three years ago and allowed me to install the Varta F18 which was a big improvement. I would now like to undertake the button mode that has been discussed extensively on this forum, although I am first to admit I have limited experience with electronics. I know Leedsman mentioned inserting a resistor (33KO) in series on the live 5 volt lead going to the "cold battery sensor" and using a connection block, although this wasn't apparent on the photo that was provided so I just wanted to check if when inserting a resistor in series are two connection blocks used (sorry if this is naive) or is their an other standard practise for doing this. I did think about soldering but understand this can be problematic. Regards. Steve

[RichardM]

Providing you sleeve the soldered joints (and ensure the joints are clean before soldering) there should be no problem, otherwise its two chocolate blocks (connectors).

It doesn't matter which side of the thermistor  you put the resistor on.

[stevesmp]

Hi Richard

Thanks for your reply and I will go ahead with this mod later in the week. Not sure if this will solve my problem but certainly worth a try.

Unfortunately my dead battery has culminated in a new problem, after installing a new battery over the weekend - sliding doors opening and closing randomly. So this will be another issue to deal with but would appreciate any advise you could offer. I have scanned the forum and undertaken the following:

New Varta F18 Battery / Pulled IOD fuse and reinstalled after 20 mins - disconnected battery for 12 hrs and then reconnected - no change doors still opening.

Checked for wire breaks in the sliding door (tank track conduit) on both sides but looks good and in any event both doors work and open and close as they should. This was just a visual check with wires in situ .

Checked both car key fobs and removed batteries but doors would still open and close.

I have now pulled the fuse for the sliding doors, however I can still hear what would sound like the door mechanism are opening/ locking randomly. No mods have been done on the vehicle apart from a tow bar being fitted 8 years ago. Any other suggestion please. Rgs Steve

 

[RichardM]

• The first thing I should point out is that I am no expert, not a mechanic, not a vehicle electrician.
• Second thing to bring your attention to is that just about everything in these vehicles is controlled by various computers (microcontrollers) that talk to each other via the PCI bus. (Microcontrollers, and digital communications I am experienced on, ships tend to run on these blxxdy things these days, I am not however experienced nor knowledgeable about the Chrysler PCI bus or SAE J1850 protocol.
• The controllers, I believe, activate an electronic device (solenoid, motor etc.) by grounding it (independent ground from the chassis), this means when you check component live and ground the meter to the chassis it means absolutely squat all other than there is 12V at the terminal, the control module needs to ground the device correctly for it to operate. Be aware that if you disconnect the controller feed to some devices and then try to operate it an error code (DTC) MAY be generated that MAY inhibit the future operation of the device until the error (DTC) is cleared.
• So if you have removed the sliding door fuse (F31 - 40A) then non of the electrical devices relating to the doors should be able to activate or deactivate as they are all controlled by their respective Door Control Module, which in turn is controlled (for s/door locks), by the BCM (Body Control Module).
• With reference to the sliding doors I assume everything was tickety-boo before you changed the battery, I would therefore suggest you assume the wiring is still OK.
• If you carried out the thermistor mod before fitting the new battery I would recommend that you remove the resistor and reconnect the circuit as original ( did you identify the correct wire ?
• I am not sure any of this helps ~ if not sorry about the rambling.

[RichardM]

Sorry about this but maybe this will help ?

- from the CGV manual ;

The power sliding door control module serves as
the main computer for the power sliding door system.
All power door functions are processed through the
power sliding door control module and/or the vehicles
Body Control Module (BCM). At the start of a power
open command, a signal is sent to the BCM and then
to the power sliding door control module via the Programmable
Communication Interface (PCI) data bus
circuit. This signal, generated by any of the power
door command switches, tells the power sliding door
control module to activate a power latch release,
engage the clutch assembly and drive the door into
the full open position. If an obstacle is felt during
this power open cycle, the module will reverse direction
and close the door. This process is also enabled
during a power close cycle. This process will repeat
three times, and if a fourth obstacle is detected, the
door will go into full manual mode. Once the full
open position is obtained, a hold open latch assembly
mounted full open switch tells the power sliding door
control module that the door has reached the full
open position. If the power sliding door system develops
any problems the power sliding door control module
will store and recall Diagnostic Trouble Codes
(DTC). The use of a diagnostic scan tool, such as the
DRB IIIt is required to read and troubleshoot these
trouble codes.

Please do not ask about DRBIII - its taboo.

[stevesmp]

Hi Richard

Thanks for that comprehensive reply it was interesting and useful.

I am ex salty myself (offshore drilling) but my skills lean more towards the mechanical sector.

In answer to your question I have not undertaken the button mod yet, as I am awaiting delivery of the resistor and a few other bits.

Today the doors seem to be working as they should, I am not sure why but I did remove the battery and tie wrap the pos and neg cable

together for 12 hours whilst the battery what being topped up by my charger. I also sprayed WD 40 into the door latches, couldn't

say if this has resolved the problem but at the moment everything is working. Thanks again for you input it was much appreciated.

[RichardM]

Duct tape and WD40 fix most things - great news