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Perry


Perry
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From the infamous net ;

Please note that since January 2021, the MOT Inspection manual has been updated to include LED bulbs.

Section 4.1.4 now states the following:

“Existing halogen headlamp units should not be converted to be used with high intensity discharge (HID) or light emitting diode (LED) bulbs. If such a conversion has been done, you must fail the headlamp.”

This is a brand new update that seems to only focus on headlights.

I assume this is reliant on the diligence of the MOT station in question..... 

  must admit that I am sorely tempted to shove something brighter in mine or upgrade the auxiliary driving lights.

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Well, it's a nuisance, but unless you have a nice friendly MOT station, the process would be similar to what we used to do with "free flowing" motorcycle exhausts. Put the legal one on for the MOT day, and run the other 364 days with the one you like. If you have somewhere undercover and lit it's not a problem, or if your test is in the spring or summer then the weather while you do the swap stands a chance of being nicer!! 

Edited by bignev
I have HIDs in mine and it's not too bad a job under the car port!
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Not meeting the spec, and your local MoT man failing it, can be two different things.

For example, the test requirement for being able to lower your headlamp beams (levelling devices) when you have a load on (4.1.5), was also introduced, but my local place certainly never tested it this year as one of my car has a seized adjuster. In any case on reading the requirement it says it's only to be tested if you have such a function. In other words they would have to know that the bulbs were the wrong ones before failing it, and as long as they work and the dip pattern is alright, they might not look any further.

Not sure what bulbs you're using, but there is a big difference between cheap eBay bulbs and genuine Osrams in both pattern and strength. Cleaning and polishing the lens with lens cleaner may also show an improvement. 

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I forgot to pass comment on your offside sliding door not unlocking. It is quite likely the lock actuator, easy enough to test if a bit time consuming, swap the actuator from the nearside door, you won't need to actually fit it into the door to prove the point, simply plug it into the connector and see if it works when on the offside door. If it does you need a new one!

But if it will already lock and unlock with the other controls, get in the fusebox in the engine bay and pull out the IOD fuse for half an hour to reset the electronic brains.

Edited by bignev
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