Timing Belt And Water Pump Change

[Sentech]

I'm in the middle of this job (in situ), timing is set, pins are in but getting the water pump out was a nightmare.

 

Gonna reassemble tomorrow  

 

Does anyone have any inputs on an easy way to get the pump, in with the five 10mm bolts and that damn 8mm bolt for water pipe bracket ???

 

Talk about a tight squeeze, I'm dreading trying to put the rear timing cover back on.

 

I tried watching the Russian guy on youtube but he doesn't show the pump change.

 

Looking for useful hints.

Edited June 19, 2021 by Sentech

[maxcaddy]

Okay, a bit late as I only look in occasionally, but when I did mine I didn't change the pump because there was no play in the shaft whatsoever. 

 

That said I was glad as getting to it looked difficult, and you might have to undo the engine mounts to get the engine moved enough to get good access.

 

Presumably by now you've done the job, so hopefully it all went back together okay 

[Sentech]

Actually I have a bit of a dilemma.

 

I changed the water pump and the timing belt and the engine ran. Should mention here that I did it using the cambelt locking pins.

 

Sadly the gasket on the water pump leaked, guess I wasn't careful enough when I installed it.

 

To cut a long story short I set the engine with the timing marks, locked the camshafts again, then removed the timing belt AGAIN, removed the pump, reassembled the rubber gasket adding a splodge of Hylomar Gasket sealant, refitted the pump and belt .................. I haven't done anything different to the first time BUT the engine won't fire up, she just spins on the starter motor.

 

No nasty noises coming from the engine, she just refuses to start.

 

Suggestions, bearing in mind the engine ran first time and I used the same timing marks second time round

 

Is the position of fuel pump critical ???................... I didn't think it was being a CRD

 

 

Chris

Edited July 8, 2021 by Sentech

[dave62pb]

A bit late with reply as been very busy, Not sure If pump timing is critical as its just high pressure pump , but when I did my belt and water pump I had a few attempts to get the pump marks to line up , in the end I clamped the belt to cam pulleys with wooden clothes pegs removed the idler near pump so I could turn pump a tooth 

just past marker , and put idler back on, then when I set belt tension all lined up

 

When I first stripped it all down I checked markings and pump was 1 tooth out but car ran fine 

I too struggled with water pump bolts but found it best to put the bolt in pipe bracket and pump first , line up and screw in part way before other 4 bolts 

TBH the whole job was a pig so many bolts difficult to get to 

[Sentech]

dave62pb, 

 

Not touched the vehicle since Wednesday last, we went to the beach for the weekend

 

The job is a pig if like me, you do the water pump as well, the work area is so limited, TBH it's probably easier with the engine out

 

That idea with the clothes pegs is pretty nifty, I'm gonna try that before I do anything else

 

Update to follow

Edited July 13, 2021 by Sentech