I see we have these grooved bolts in the front lower arms & tension struts that are for wheel camber. I first noticed these last year when I replaced the lower front arms & just put them back in the way they came out (I marked them with a white tyre pen).
Last week I had to do a bit more work on the front suspension in replacing the upper control arms (wishbones) & the lower tension struts. The tension strut on the drivers side had the grooved bolt, but the tension strut on the passenger side had a plain bolt that just went straight through the middle with no adjustment possible & could be torqued from either side.
Is it possible to replace all grooved bolts with ungrooved bolts to ensure a wheel with no camber ?.....it was so much easier to torque up the plain bolt, as you cannot get a socket on the end of the batwing nut because of the subframe being too close, unless you have crowfoot torque wrench ends
And while on the subject of front wheels, should the front wheels toe out or in, or straight. Mine have & do still toe in very slightly, but steering wheel is straight. I'm a bit of a skinflint, so use the string method from front to back tyres to determine toe settings & go a quarter of a turn on each track rod until it feels good
From what I have read, being a rear wheel drive, then front wheels have to be set 'toe in' slightly, because when driving, the front wheels will naturally have a tendency to pull outwards and create a straight line, which kind of makes sense
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jonnyjeep
I see we have these grooved bolts in the front lower arms & tension struts that are for wheel camber. I first noticed these last year when I replaced the lower front arms & just put them back in the way they came out (I marked them with a white tyre pen).
Last week I had to do a bit more work on the front suspension in replacing the upper control arms (wishbones) & the lower tension struts. The tension strut on the drivers side had the grooved bolt, but the tension strut on the passenger side had a plain bolt that just went straight through the middle with no adjustment possible & could be torqued from either side.
Is it possible to replace all grooved bolts with ungrooved bolts to ensure a wheel with no camber ?.....it was so much easier to torque up the plain bolt, as you cannot get a socket on the end of the batwing nut because of the subframe being too close, unless you have crowfoot torque wrench ends
And while on the subject of front wheels, should the front wheels toe out or in, or straight. Mine have & do still toe in very slightly, but steering wheel is straight. I'm a bit of a skinflint, so use the string method from front to back tyres to determine toe settings & go a quarter of a turn on each track rod until it feels good
From what I have read, being a rear wheel drive, then front wheels have to be set 'toe in' slightly, because when driving, the front wheels will naturally have a tendency to pull outwards and create a straight line, which kind of makes sense
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