Car Wont Start The Saga Goes On

[oldginger]

Hi all, after much waiting, a long story, I have my ecu back but the tech who was handling it has had a stroke and cannot complete the refit. Problem!!!  before the ecu can be fitted the 12v leakage issue must be sorted because this caused the damage in the first place. This will require old fashioned electrical fault finding and here lies the problem. I cannot  find anyone here in Cheltenham that will touch it because it involves nothing more than a meter/circuit tester and grubbing around an engine bay, with some knowledge and a slice of luck in finding it quickly. To add to this it will have to be done on my drive because the technician  who started the job was a mobile man. £1700 has been spent on a full service cambelt kit new brakes and a hand brake that works reasonably well. Coolant system overhaul which means it also works reasonably well. I have been running the car on Archoil fuel treatment since last January and it passed mot with flying colours back in June. I would love this car on the road but at this rate it looks like a spares/repair sale or scrap yard if I can't get help. For those who know this saga at least my daughter was told last week that a new approach to her cancer treatment which will start after an operation on November18 my 72nd birthday could be very beneficial. I am open to suggestion and advice, particularly on common electrical faults. I wish you all well, regards Roy.

[andyb2000]

Hi Roy,

I really feel for you, tough time but hopefully light at the end of the tunnel for the GV and your Daughter, we wish her all the best.

 

For the GV, did they confirm that the ECU was hit with a spike (suspected, I know they can't be 100% sure). If so then there is really only one culprit. The alternator with it's built-in diode pack. On these the alternator+diode pack is all of the voltage smoothing, the regulation takes place by the ECU so now that's been refurbed that removes that part.

 

I think based on the price, etc, you've paid I'd be buying a new alternator and fitting it, regardless. Testing the alternator out would involve running the car with new ECU in place, etc, and could potentially put the ECU back at risk (NEVER run the car without a battery connected. Some people incorrectly think by disconnecting battery whilst car running you can then test voltage spikes. Unfortunately the battery provides a bit of stabilisation/sink voltage so what happens when you remove that, the ECU and whole electrical system will have to 'absorb' the voltage spikes = fried electricals)

Cost of an alternator? £120-£150 if I recall correctly.

 

So to me, I think I'd be buying an alternator and fitting it. I honestly can't think of anything else that would cause a fried ECU unless the wiring harness is totally toasted.

 

Fingers crossed for you Roy.

[oldginger]

Hi Andy, I knew it would involve more money and it looks like I will have to do it myself. Having connected the new alternator is it easy to reconnect the ECU and then the battery or am I oversimplifying it? I have just bought a 1991 Rover 214s  8v with; A.no ECU. B. carburetor. C.no air con. D.muscle toning windows and steering. E. no sunroof. but it has got a radio cassette player. 33232 miles with service history,excellent paintwork and mechanics, kept in a garage. I missed out on a couple of maxi's recently but i have not give up on that. I am worried about the money, if this repair does not work it will such a shame to scrap or sell it for spares/repair.The dilemma goes on. I will let you know what happens ,regards, Roy.   

[bignev]

Hiya Roy, I'm very pleased to hear the news on the treatment for your daughter, I sincerely hope it works for her!

[oldginger]

Hi Andy, I have removed the alternator and its a  aapoldham . Other than the name there seems to be no other info. I think its a refurb and my research is showing  5 star feed back but I do not put much stock in those. I can't see anything wrong but I think I will try something with more repute. If you have any recommendations I would be grateful. that goes for the whole membership. A decent alternator please gents . and where to get it. Thanks bignev. and my daughters youngest Arron  is in hospital to day to have a shunt fitted tomorrow to relieve pressure on the brain. Hopefully this will see him right for his future. I am hoping this car saga will be over soon. All help gratefully received. Roy. 

[bignev]

Ruddy hell pal you are being dealt a pile of poo to deal with!! I thought we had some crap over a few years! 

 

That company are coincidentally just a few miles up the road from me! Don't know them or ever heard of them, but the pictures seem to show an independent outlet.

 

I got an alternator for my petrol 3.3 from West Lancs auto electrics in Preston around 4 1/2 years ago, so far so good! Their website may not give you a price, I've just tried with my reg, but they have a lovely old fashioned phone number type thing too - I remember that's how I ordered mine.

Edited November 11, 2020 by bignev

[soupstone]

Was a couple of years ago now, but I got an alternator from Ebay on an exchange basis. 

You just popped the old one in the box the recon one came in, and sent it back. 

Here you go, cheaper than when I done it. (seen your original post, cant remember but assuming it's for a diesel?)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1A2830-ALTERNATOR-For-CHRYSLER-Grand-Voyager-IV-2-5-2-8-CRD/263218935251?epid=25010161697&hash=item3d491235d3:g:pLMAAOSwQiBZwlJM

[oldginger]

HI all, I have had a look at the exchange deal and saved it. The only info on this aapoldham alternator is a do not remove warranty label with  94 2626 on it, My car for new readers is a CGV 2.8 crd  stow n go. 2005. I will wait until Monday to order my alternator to see if anyone else has any thoughts on my fried ECU. I must check some of the earth connections for the higher power items in the engine bay. As i have said before if anyone has any ideas on fried ECU causes I would like to hear them, regards all, Roy.(old ginger).

[andyb2000]

Sorry been MIA this week, hectic!

To me I'd not worry too much over the brand, etc. Original would probably have been Denso but looking it's a 160Amp so I think at this stage I'd go for any compatible.

 

There appeared to be three OEM numbers for these (2.5 and 2.8CRD):

04868429AB

04868429AC

04868429AD

 

All the best, hopefully this is the bit to get you up and running.

[oldginger]

Hi all, I have just purchased an exchange alternator from the outfit as used by soupstone, thanks for that. In the meantime between the rubbish weather that's forecast in the coming days I will attempt to do some wiring checks.I live on a park home site and broken down cars sat on drives for too long is frowned upon,so I have got to look busy.I will keep you all informed but all ideas are much welcome as stated before. Just heard from my daughter grandsons operation successful may home tonight or tomorrow morning. Maybe things are on the turn for the better. Got to keep positive,stay safe everyone,regards Roy.