Flat Battery Again

[maxcaddy]

During this enforced period of lock down, I find the battery (which struggles when its not used regularly) really suffers as it's now a few days between use. Consequently top ups from the charger are the order of the day. 

 

However as an alternative I've now bought one of these :- 

 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Quick-Release-Battery-Isolator-Car-Motorhome-Terminal-Clamp-12V-Fused/111036600160?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

with the aim that when I've used the car, and know I'm not going to use it for a while, I can stop the drain.

 

I did have something similar many moons ago on an old Landie, but this new one has a fused loop wire, the purpose of which I do not know, other than is it a bypass to keep the alarm powered ?

 

If anyone who knows what the wire is actually for, please let me know 

[maxcaddy]

Well I did a quick check over and apart from the Radio (which can be a bit iffy anyway) everything worked, i.e. heated seat, lights, windows, wipers etc.

 

After connecting the Battery, I put the key in the ignition and the Speedo and Rev counter did a full sweep, which is what happens when trying to start when the Battery gets flat, only this time it cranked well and started straight away. The Heater Plug light didn't come on, but it started fine all the same.

 

I was going to try putting the 'Fuse' back in, but it was a lovely afternoon and I didn't have the nerve to upset the locals  , however I will go out over the next few days, and try it putting it back in when I find a quiet spot. 

 

I'm still wading through the mass of light bedtime reading a.k.a the links to the manuals   

[QinteQ]

Glad it worked for you.

 

I'm still sod the neibour's, they will understand if you talk to one them you know. You need a new battery I think my friend, certainly before next winter even if you persevere through the warm summer. BTW I don't know if your type 19, there's a range small to big for that post you made.

 

It's a big heavy cold lump to start and IMO needs to be near to 800CCA to feed both the high draw of the 2.8 limited toys and start UK winters. Take care.

[QinteQ]

Hiya @@QinteQ , how are you keeping?

 

You definitely know more than me on that (but in my laziness I haven't looked up the diagram! )

 

What I couldn't grasp, reading back over the post, was that @@maxcaddy seems to indicate that

 

In post 7 that "it all seems to run ok now" 

 

And in post 12 "At least that way I can put the Fuse back and not worry that the Alarm will go off again if I disconnect the Battery for a long while"

 

So I guessed it was out, but everything was working ok. 

 

Apart from the alarm.

 

But then I kind if got lost on whether the fuse was in or out, and confused as to what, right now, the problem actually is?

 

 

@@maxcaddy I get that there was the problem with the alarm / siren going off, but is that not doing it now?

 

 

I have definitely confused myself!!!!!

 

 

HiYabignev

 

I'm as good as I'm as I'm gonna get, been cabin-up since Xmas GOV sms orders, apart from one 1/8th mile each way early January. Hope you and yours are ok lad. I see maxcaddy as a 'lifestyle' user who has an old underspec and under performing battery. who even with a new F19 Exide has lifestyle under use problems regardless. I certainly do [lifestyle-lack of use] and have had for a decade. So new SLI 80/800 will help but lifestyle will remain. You take care bud.

[bignev]

Yep keep you and yours safe pal! We've really been reluctant at doing anything.  There can be such halfwits in the shops on my rare visit, not a remote clue, and no sense, about keeping apart, when this covid becomes bright fluorescent colours for us I'll be less concerned!

 

And yes the infrequent lifestyle is rather at odds with these beasties diesel engines and tiddler battery. I've just been to the shed and the new one I took off the Kia Sedona 2.9 (before we sold it last year) is a significantly bigger rascal, as I've got the old one our Voyager next to it.

[QinteQ]

Opinion

 

America in 50's new housing builds all drives ramped up for flooding/builing laws engines big, thirsty and cheap petrol. Insane parts finder in any UK from Halfords to trade are "put your REG in here" and of course it thinks all American cars are 50a/400CCA small battery tray not in fact 800/85 big battery. All new batteries are prostituted substituted diluted scrapyard lead.

 

Hence

 

$hite EURO batteries but Varta AGM F19/start stop tech and Varta F18 SLI have both been good for me - ours are SLI tech. They both start our Mk but the AGM kills expensive auto smart 9 stage battery chargers.

 

Original 60 year design rear top-hat-drum "holding" brakes a nightmare to get set. Legacy of above housing only designed to stop car accident rolling back unattended into traffic. They rely on auto box locking pin holding car.

 

Batteries including Halfords posts on this site somewhere.

 

Take care buddy.

[maxcaddy]

Got to admit that in actual fact the Yuasa I’ve been using is a 096 type which fits well by moving the connectors over a bit, and had a second use as my toy of the time was a SLK280 which also used the 096, so it gave me the benefit of being able to swap over if needs be.

 

I checked how old the Battery actually was and found it was nearly 3 years, which (for a 5 year guarantee) wasn’t marvellous, but it has had a few ‘going flat sessions’ so yes, a replacement could well be in-order. However within my ‘Voyager’ file I also found a Chrysler Workshop Manual DVD which I must have got when I first bought it (2014), but had forgotten about and hadn’t used/seen since. This would have all been great other than I needed to then dig out an old Laptop which played DVDs, which after buying a new Battery for, and stopping it keep trying to upgrade from Win 7 professional, I now have it up and running. A quick perusal said that the IOD fuse could come out (which confirmed what Qinteq said at #3).

 

The only other discovery made was that while the Radio/Satnav/CD still turns itself off, if I press the ‘Time’ button on it, the Chrysler emblem comes up on the display for 10 secs and then goes. This anomaly is repeatable, but doesn’t get me any further forward , but as it’s more used as a Van than a people carrier, I don’t actually miss it.

 

At the same time I’ve now put back in the 30A pink, and so far it’s all working fine with no Alarm going off, and the Battery not flattening when left for a week. Which brings me full circle back to where all this started, and waiting for the next thing to go wrong 

Edited June 8, 2020 by maxcaddy

[QinteQ]

Yes 30a is IOD "ledged" with primary 'stay alive' PCi bus functions.

 

Use it or lose it, needs weekly 20 minute run winter and three week 20 minute run summer or 'lifetyle' will send a plaugue to anyone. I'm cabin up since xmas, mines too flat to keep alive or even jump start. Not even an alarm flashing light.

 

Take care maxcaddy.

[ivarens]

Wow many thanks Guys .

 

However what I was trying to ascertain was (because I have removed the 'pink 30A fuse'), what effect is there/will there be on the rest of the car if I were to carry on using it with the fuse permanently removed ?.

 

When I removed the Fuse (yesterday) to shut the Alarm up, the car started okay, I then went for a drive and it stopped and started okay, just been out now and it started okay, so it can't have anything to do with the immobiliser ?

 

Unfortunately I don't have a handbook/wiring diagram to know whats what 

I suggest you replace the alernator or check out the diodes or circuits on it

My garage insists on this and saying that 9 out of 10 batrery drain issues has a cause in the alternator. I did this replacement at cost £150 (1500 NOK) problem fixed

[maxcaddy]

I suggest you replace the alernator or check out the diodes or circuits on it

My garage insists on this and saying that 9 out of 10 batrery drain issues has a cause in the alternator. I did this replacement at cost £150 (1500 NOK) problem fixed

 

 

Yep, that could certainly be the case , but unfortunately I'm now of the mindset that whilst I am happy to pay to keep the old girl ticking over, tyres, brakes etc, I don't intend to spend any real money on her unless absolutely necessary. Consequently at the moment (especially with Covid limited use), connecting/disconnecting the battery is the easiest option  .