Parasitic Drain

[timb02]

Without going on too much I have had the classic GV battery problems which raised its head this week when the bus became 1st car post our lease car going back! new battery fitted and all seems ok so far. What would be an acceptable drain on the battery at idle? I know the spec is 25mA max after 20mins however I am reading 34mA. should I be too worried given that I have done the button mod and the car is used daily although not for long runs. A big thanks to QinteQ  for all the posts on the subject of battery's and the mod has helped me no end! Thanks 

tim

[QinteQ]

Starter batteries are simply a purse, a reserve of starting power, the bigger the purse the bigger the reserve, and the longer it takes to refill the purse. At 800CCA and 85aH it takes a long unspecified time with a 160/180a alternator to replace just the one half turn start. Agreed should be ± 25mA, I'd accept a frack either way but not +10. The IPM [fusebox] is often a culprit for leaks but then the whole car function is a PCI BUS just like your computer.

 

What battery ?

Standard factory fit radio ?

No tow bar or other third party rewire ?

 

Mind you Tim, I've suffered all the 10 years I've had it, but mine is deffo a lifestyle issue.

 

IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST - reproduced from the workshop manual - According to Chrysler's own workshop manual :

 

Allow twenty minutes for the IOD to stabilize and observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amper- age IOD should not exceed twenty-five milliamperes (0.025 ampere). If the current draw exceeds twenty-five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in Step 4. The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch adjustment, or a component failure is at fault

The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from fifteen to twenty five milliamperes (0.015 to 0.025 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to twenty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment. A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty one days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty one days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Integrated Power Module (IPM). This will reduce battery discharging.

 

 

Best of luck.

[QinteQ]

If you have safe parking you could pull the "shelf" fuse, that would keep you alarmed but reduce other drain. Alternatively I have a 'red key', I never use it because it does TOTAlly isolate your battery.

Edited December 21, 2019 by QinteQ

[timb02]

I fitted an exile excel 74ah 680 cca replacing a brand I didn't know and declared ok by the breakdown man. As you so rightly say the battery is only a store so no matter how big if you take out less than you put in you will eventually get the click of doom when you most need the car! I have also taken your advice and bought the maypole battery charger so can top up the battery as needed. Yes the bus has got a tow bar "fitted"and has standard ICE. The tow bar wiring has been bodged on with wires going in to the rear light clusters under the lenses   was done by the previous owner in spain. I have thought i would strip that out but of course while it kept starting ok i have not bothered. This will be the first thing to go when the search for the excess drain recommences. When you suggest pulling the shelf fuse which one would that be? I have to say i do find the IPM confusing as there seems to be no listed fuse for the ICE which would have been my first point of call. I guess it is part of another system. Have to say that patience was running thin yesterday as the battery clamp bolt had fallen into the engine bay resulting in me having to strip off the under tray to find it in the rain. Ah the joys of home maintenance! Thanks again for your advice and support. 

[QinteQ]

PD I normally always associate with the minefield that is the amp in the rear wing. Towing is a favourite attack point for anyone looking to steal a supply of 12v. Many many have aborted headset upgrades and stuck their old infinity OEM set back in. AndyB2000, no longer a regular or GV user, a thoroughly nice bloke is the expert (radio station electronics engineer).

You could try to "PING" him on the two Chrysler forums as he's known to occasionally come back here and read the group's, see below:

http://www.thebmwz3.co.uk/2017/12/chrysler-audio-system-amplifier-and.html?m=1

Sorry I can't be more helpful my friend.

Edited December 22, 2019 by QinteQ

[legonsuk]

First thing i would be looking at is if you have a amp in the back of boot area for the stereo  have been known to play up and drain the battery as i have had one go on me and as for the battery i would only fit a 800CCA or higher in a grand hope this might help m8.

[RichardM]

Bought a CGV 2.8CRD December 22nd.. fitted new Redtop 10/01/2020 RTU  4.2 .. also bought 8 amp smart charger just in case... but what I'm writing about is the parasitic drain - how can 25 milliamps kill a good battery in 21 days; 21 x 24 (504 hours) x .025 = 12.6  amps.

The C/20 rate is 50  therefore over 20 hours pulling 2.5 amp will drain the battery;  over 100 hours 0.5 amps drains it; over 500 hours  0.1 (100 milliamps); I would therefore assume the drain will result in the battery being 1/4 discharged.. Don't know... but When I was in the merchant navy left my 20 year old W124 Merc Estate (petrol) at the docks for 12 weeks (was supposed to be 8 but poo happens).  Fired up straight away (Winter).

Pulling the fuse sounds like a must BUT I assume the radio will demand it's security code which I don't have and obviously don't want to lose the radio.

I must admit the Chrysler frightens me with its electrics, more like an IBM 360 on wheels. Everything appears to be computer controlled including the radio.. Why for heaven's sake - other than the Yanks love of complexity. - Having said that like the car, it's really the first vehicle that I'm comfortable driving (6' 5"), other than the brake pedal that's so far over to the left that it hits my left boot and provides some challenging breaking at times; am thinking of moving it over by an inch or so but not sure about the legalities.

[QinteQ]

Old school 6 fuse wiring is not modern PCi 100% computer data BUS controlled. W124 was both petrol CRD if my memory serves me.Always on by the milli-second software driven constant checks on lights, alarm points, etc are the reason. Ditto the original OEM radio is coded to the BCM module (caveat emptor). The 10/01/2020 RTU  4.2 is a good enough straight swap battery - lifestyle [infrequent daily use] is the killer of all starter batteries on GV's including big Odessy 100+ aH 1000+CCA. Crap handbrick and left clog position are original poor design engineering translations petrol/CDR and LHdrive/RHdrive.

 

Manuals here, Best of luck.

[RichardM]

Sometimes I dream of Old school, the old girl covered 300,00 miles + in my 12 years of owning her (she had 60K on her when bought, only scrapped her due to corrosion, something I regret - £1K for repairs and may have got another 2- 3 000ks, but now I've got the bus which I like a lot (not love yet, but growing on me - will see how the service goes tomorrow.

 

Cheers

[QinteQ]

I'm ecumenical about annual service check. I don't do everything every year but I do use the very very best and go the whole hog with a job when it does need doing. Examples would include Hoat05 aniffreeze diluted with distilled water only, fully Sinth engine oil. Never done gearbox oil + filter but only Mopar recommended top end top ups. New front shockers, disks, pads, drop links 5 years ago and ditto rear top hats + all bits plus the always essential, always forgotten "large small parts bag" 2 years ago.

 

It just keeps starting on half-term and gives me what I give it ! Enjoy your GV my friend, if you got a good one, keep it.

Edited January 29, 2020 by QinteQ

[karmannski]

since I done my bootommod - all battery issues gone. 

20p fix. winner 

[QinteQ]

HiyA karmannski

 

I still miss old Jags and badge engineered Daimler Sovereigns but heck I'm twice their age and long past maintaining one. But but it was nice to run a nice car. Good times eh!