Chryslervoyager 2006 2.5Crd Intermittant Starting Problem

[Sivasoruban]

I have an intermittent starting problem.  Some time just hear a clunk and  engine wont turn, at other times turn slowly then stops. Then if you try a gain, will turn and start normally.  

 

I suspect poor connection. Can some one tell me the location of starter motor.  I think it is at the front, but before I dismantle everything to gain access, I need to be sure.

 

Thanks

[Penguin2007]

Without much more details my analysis would be:

 

clunk / no turn = flat battery = alternator dirty connections, brushes coated with road fill? brushes worn out?

 

turn slowly = some charge - Has it been running before this phase??? Warm starter motors have less resistance and better starting characteristics than cold ones.

 

turn and start = battery charged Car has just been running well?

 

Date check the battery

 

MM/YY = month / year code > 05/09 = May 2009

 

Batteries last about 4 years tops, if treated carefully. Can be much much less if the car has been treated as a multistep, short distance car.

 

Wet top up battery - check levels

 

High resistance voltmeter meter across terminals when running should give you 14V plus

No volt meter? Look at red battery (turn key one click - it illuminates) and see if it goes out when car starts.

 

 

Hope half a spoonful of help enables you to do a bit of detective work.

 

NEVER check for a charged battery by connecting any conductor from the live to negative terminals.

Not only will you receive severe burns, but the battery may explode.

 

Penguin

[steff1965]

You could try the "keydance" and check for error codes.

 

Ignition on, off, on, off, on if i remember right. Miles will change and give you the error codes. 

Edited March 29, 2015 by steff1965

[VoyagerPig69]

I am also getting similar problems. Mine is a 2003 2.5CRD  Some days no problems at all, some days slow turn over

Some days the starter just clicks like a dead battery (along with needles on dials doing a full turn and then Air Con comes on)

Yesterday had to get my friend to give me a jump start because It wouldn't start outside his house but Fired up no problem this morning (without taking battery off car to charge overnight)

I measured charge rate while running from tickover to about 2000rpm and got 13.5 across battery terminals (13.6 across alternator stud to Earth) which I would consider low.

 

The Chrysler manual mentions:

 

BATTERY TEMPERATURE

SENSOR

DESCRIPTION

(NGC Vehicles) The PCM incorporates a Battery

Temperature Sensor (BTS) on its circuit board.

OPERATION

The PCM uses the temperature of the battery area

to control the charge system voltage. This temperature,

along with data from monitored line voltage, is

used by the PCM to vary the battery charging rate.

The system voltage is higher at cold temperatures

and is gradually reduced as temperature around the

battery increases.

 

Only bit i'm not sure of, is what is an NGC vehicle?

 

The Keydance is a pain that I have yet to get to work and before you all shout, yes I know it takes practice, have done it with several other makes of vehicles but never managed to get any joy with the Chrysler.

 

Will keep investigating and prodding if I find anything that makes sense I will let you know!

[VoyagerPig69]

further to the 'whats an NGC vehicle' question..............

 

NGC

Starting in 2002, both SBEC and JTEC controllers began to be replaced by the Next Generation Controller (NGC).

The NGC combines the PCM and the TCM into a single unit and can be identified by the four 32-pin connectors on vehicles with automatic transmission, or by the three 32-pin connectors and an empty cavity on vehicles with manual transmission.

Edited June 26, 2015 by VoyagerPig69

[Jumberly]

I don't know if this will help, but I had the same problem and solved it.

 

OK - I would start the bus and I'd have a flat battery.  Called RAC - they started it and checked the battery, which they said was fine. (It was the original battery).

 

This continued without warning, it would start first turn, I'd drive, park...find I had a dead battery.  Got to know the local RAC boys really well.   Every few days I'd remove the battery and put it on charge - did bugger all good.

 

 

Decided there must be a drain on the battery.  Some septic Chrysler sites claimed the radio amp drains the battery.  So I bought a 'Negative Battery Post Switch'  - a Green thing that when turned isolates the battery (clever me...there would be no drain and a quick twist was all I had to do).  Still kept getting a flat battery.

 

So I replaced the battery with a Yuasa silver 5000 YBX5096 (80Ah), cost me £95 delivered  Just squeezes in - the terminals/posts are on the wrong side...but the leads just (and I mean just) reach.  Problem solved...12 months later and it still starts every time.

 

Well almost.  3 times now I've turned the key and nothing.  Just as if the battery was flat, lifted the lid and the 'charged' green light on the battery says all is fine.  Quick disconnect of the battery (still have the Green isolator on the terminal, too lazy to remove it) there's a click and the car starts first time.

 

Hope that helps someone.

Edited December 15, 2016 by Jumberly

[gordy]

Spade connector on starter coil gives this fault if loose, had this on mine. Squeeze spade connector with pliers and press onto coil spade. Test for start.

Some starters have a loop connector on the coil wire and secured by a small machine screw to coil terminal.