Sliding Door Fault

[Italianstallionxx]

hello all, I've seen the posts but just wanted to make sure before I take it apart.

 

My electric sliding door when i push the button, will only open about an inch then stops. If I push it manually about an inch and push the button, it will then fully open.

 

When I push the close button, It will close but stop about an inch from the end where I need to pull the rest of way shut.

 

Everything was fine until other day as it was closing, I took key out of ignition mid flow so to speak, and now I have this fault.

 

So I thought maybe by interrupting things I had wiped its memory of the open and close points and so had to re-teach it somehow, or wad it just coincidence ?

 

Any suggestions ?

[bignev]

Hi there!

 

Yep if it's the usual culprit it will be one of the wires in the caterpillar track at the bottom, had enough and broken. 

 

Gets to a certain point then stops, had it on the drivers side on one of mine, but as my electrical soldering isn't up to my pipe soldering abilities it failed again, twice!!

 

So I surrendered and got a new one from the States, shame I'm rubbish or it would have saved me over a hundred quid!!

 

Mine has the side crash sensor, without it there were several 2nd hand on ebay.

 

Does it still use the cinch motor to pull the door closed the last tiny bit?

Edited May 6, 2019 by bignev

[Italianstallionxx]

Well took it apart,as yes I found three broken wires,and omg how hard they had become.....no wonder they broke

[Fiona]

I have the problem where the door unlocks then nothing. I have changed the motor and the control box from one side to another but its still the smae. I have taken the wiring out as everyone said but not only could I not see a break I put a pin in the wires by the door pillar and found the other end in the plug using the beep on a Fluke multimeter. They all seem fine. Any other ideas? I would also like to find a wriring diagram from this area Its a 2007 model with a 2.8 CRD

Edited May 25, 2019 by Fiona

[bignev]

Hi there,

It could still possibly be a broken wire inside the insulation, sometimes difficult to feel.

Especially if the lock / unlock still work.

 

When testing with a multimeter you might just have the cable in a position that gives enough "touch" to make a continuity test work.

 

I'm not sure, but I think the wiring plugs would be different for left / right or you could try swapping that over too.

[Fiona]

I have found and solved the problem. I have a CD with all the parts and wiring so I printed out the relevant pages and studied and thought. I took the door lock out that contains all the switches, door lock and latch unlatch motor. I Inspected the wiring, pulling back the sleeving and found one damaged and one cut wire. Repairing them both solved the issue but how they were cut is a mystery, when I bought the car it wasnt working but that door was dented. However, I still can't make out how the wire was cut. It took me quite a while to put back the track at the bottom of the door.

 

Just so you know what the problem was;

Press any undo button the door will unlatch, then the module ticks and nothing else happens. Manually slide the door back, press buttons, nothing.