2006 2.8 Crd Grand Voyager - Heating Up On Hills

[chrisdavisberry]

I have a 2006 2.8 CRD Grand Voyager

 

I have one issue with it I cant resolve. 

 

On hills the car heats up excessively nearing the red line - returning to normal once things level out.   

 

When i'm on the flat, small hills, driving steady, motorway driving or sat in traffic the car is fine and the temperature sits around halfway. 

 

I've check the fans after driving up a hill and when the temperature is nearing the red and they are both running really fast.  The car has not actually ever gone into the red... but then again ive not been up a long 5 mins+ hill to test it.

 

The radiator water is clean, and radiator flushed through without blockage and has new coolant. 

 

I've started to suspect the fans should kick in sooner that they do? Is there a low level fan that should come on? 

 

ie i think the fans dont kick in until it gets really warm.... whereas i would expect them to kick in when the temperature starts to rise a little way above middle to regulate it. 

Its hard to test this but when ive seen the temperature just going over middle of the gauge (if ive been able to stop and check) ive noticed no fans running. 

 

Any suggestions from anyone would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks

Chris

 

[brit644]

You're not alone, have exactly the same

Had a new water pump/timing etc done, thought all was fine, drove to Spain and all was good til the long hills. Actually went red and down to 30mph, cooled immediately on the declines. Was a nervous drive both ways.

Drives great til hills [have a few at 15% and over where I am] Have a feeling they didnt flush mine, chocolate coloured in expansion tank.

May check if theres an up-rated rad on the market

Will let ya know If I sort it. 

[QinteQ]

Nobody flushes the RAD, never in the lifetime of our GV's do they get real maintenance. Mine is 05 on an 04 build. It's now 2 or 3 years since I did mine and mine is now about 14 years old. I was not reaching 1/4 temp so decided to do do an 'inline transverse stat' MOD.

 

Cost about £15 and 15 minutes all in and then did the buttonMOD - it's been good ever since. Look at the translucent header tank with the engine running and you will see the regular pulse of the water pump circulation. Never backflush an alloy RAD always front flush.

 

With the engine running and the heater (matrix) full heat whack I slacked off the bottom hose jubilee clip and removed the header tank top and stuck a garden hose in the header adjusting out-flow to in-flow. All manner of gunge came out, left it run till clear.

 

Switched the engine off, pulled the hose pipe, let two gallon + extra out of the bottom hose the tightened the bottom hose. Put 5 litres of Host 05 and 5 litres of distilled water in, brought it up to temp with the matrix open and header tank cap on, topped it up to level. It's been ok ever since.

[brit644]

Interesting. Mod...so take the original out? Is default open or closed on OEM in malfunction operation

Incidentally I read somewhere importance of HOAT?...Wouldnt water-less coolant be an option 

Take for granted mod is some generic type?

Tks for the info btw 

[QinteQ]

ButtonMOD [not inline stat]  assume you meant.

 

From 2017

 

I put a 33KΩ @ 1/2 watt in the live-out cable from the battery button and I get a consistent 14.6V winter and 14.2V summer. This is needed for my 'lifestyle needs'. It recovers winter loss much much more quickly and is mitigated in the summer by the lower battery replenishment needs.

 

InlineSTAT [not buttonMOD] + 'winterising'

 

From 2015

[BumBle02]

HI I have just put a new rad in my voyager 2.8 crd flashing is a waste of time. The difference a new rad as made is so much better I can do 70mph all day and the gauge sits at one mark below half way uphill downhill loaded buy a new rad it will be worth it it used to set at halfway and go to 3/4 up hill and at 70mph+ when I took the sides of the old rad it was full of hard suit in the bottom it was like cement if you do change it look at Andy browns video on youtube and look at my add on below price of rad 73 pounds from Ebay.Jeff

Edited April 15, 2019 by BumBle02

[QinteQ]

Even if you were a qualified, practicing master tech specialising in CRD voyagers I'd disagree with both your assertions my friend. I am however happy that your chosen solution worked for you.

 

Flushing is a solution to poor maintenance and particularly the use of coolants other than the manufacturer's recommendations which in this case is HOAT 05 spec. Build up of particulate caused by using the wrong coolant can an will cause much more damage than simple overheating, in your case a new RAD. Proper coolant lubricates and adds to the life of the water pump with the additives in it, this in addition to the life of the radiator.

 

My own car, properly maintained since I got it has never faulted and I do Saltburn and Staithes. Flushing certainly does work, it's essential maintenance.

 

Best of luck.

[BumBle02]

Flushing would be a good thing on a 5 yearly service put on a 12 year old vehicle which might not have had a antifreeze change you can not expect a flash to clear a blocked radiator with the veins blocked solid for all you know it might have had some sort of sealer in for some reason in the past you just don't know I will sooner change a radiator then do a head gasket through overheating anytime that's the way I feel.

[QinteQ]

I'm an Uber low-miler. I do a very full service only every 5 years. The life giving Chrysler recommended coolant should be HOAT05 and the recommended Chrysler interval is every 5 years. The 2.8 takes about 10 litres... 5 HOAT + 5 distilled water (about £1).

 

My assertion on front-flush dovetails perfectly with the recommended interval. Front flush because alloy DO NOT flush like the old copper/brass. HOAT additives because without the essential additives your aluminium WILL suffer a chemical attack. Doing it right 1st time will save you money and heartache in the long run.

 

I like and really need my GV. I bought it @ 2 years old, it's now about 15, only 85k miles and in very very good nick for its UK (salt) year. Like all relationships you get out what you put into that needs-based marriage. It's a given that a garage/pet indi/friend will stick any old fluid exact same fluid into any/every vehicle. Wrong Synth engine/old spent hydroscopic brake/auto-box fluid - etc etc.

 

Look after you car and it's better able to look after you and your family. Best of luck.

[brit644]

While had my 2007 in for mot had the front shocks and rear bushes done. Decided to have rad flushed as have never solved the heating on steep hills . Even after full flush havent seen any change [have to put full heat/blower on to mitigate somewhat] Decided to inquire re thermostat not opening. Found my particular vehicle [even tho not generally listed] was in the mid change year. The thermo has a sensor and slightly different unit [confirmed with Chrysler US plus excellent guy at Cyrsler/jeep parts uk] Appears the unit was changed back half of 2007 to meet emission regs.

These units are very difficult to get, Chrysler dont supply anymore, guy Im getting one from has a backlog of orders for the unit. Could be [according to him] just the sensor is at fault...but whilst in there prudent to do both.

  r