Starting The Journey To Replace The Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal On My 2.5Crd

[Argee]

Hi Everyone!

It's early on in this project to replace the rear crankshaft oil seal on my 2003 2.5CRD Grand Voyager, and I already need some advice....

 

The first part of this task is to remove the manual transaxle.

 

Taking out the battery, battery tray, disconnecting the battery temperature sensor, removing the coolant bottle bracket - easy peasy!

 

The next part was to pop off the connectors at the ends of the two gear cables - straightforward with a large flat head screwdriver.

 

Removing the clips from the gear change cable sleeves was a little more tricky. It was a bit of a reach, but not too bad with the aid of a pair of mole grips, some WD40 and a long flathead screw driver.

 

The next step says to 'Remove three (3) right engine mount bracket-to-transaxle bolts'.....  I'm not entirely sure which bolts they mean.  I've highlighted the ones I think they mean on the attached diagram and photo.
Are these the right ones?

If so, I can just about get an 18mm socket on the front 2, but couldn't really get a good enough purchase on them to loosen them before I gave up for the night.  I couldn't even get a socket on the rear-most bolt...  I've highlighted the front 2 bolts in the photo and put dots where the rear most bolt sits - through the hole in the bracket.
Are they the right bolts, and do I really have to remove the bracket?  Would the gearbox drop okay if I left the bracket on?

As ever, all advice gratefully received.
 

 

Argee

[BumBle02]

Hi If you go on youtube and put in how to remove a third engine cushion and watch it you will know how to do it he is russian and does a lot on voyagers and he takes a gearbox as well should do the trick it's better to watch name of mechanic is autoshaman and put in removing the gearbox Chrysler dodge he is working on a voyager hope it helps you no your way. Jeff

Edited February 4, 2019 by BumBle02

[Argee]

Hi If you go on youtube and put in how to remove a third engine cushion and watch it you will know how to do it he is russian and does a lot on voyagers and he takes a gearbox as well should do the trick it's better to watch name of mechanic is autoshaman and put in removing the gearbox Chrysler dodge he is working on a voyager hope it helps you no your way. Jeff

Hi BumBle02,  thanks for that - really good quality videos - they will be very useful.

[Argee]

I had a bit of a brainwave - I decided to look on ebay for 2.5CRD gearboxes and found the attached photo.
It shows the orientation of the 3 bolts that need to be undone.

 

From that, I had another look at the diagram. I realised that I had misidentified the 3 bolts - the diagram only shows 2 of the bolts, but if you trace the dotted line down from one of them, it splits into 2 locations. 

 

I think I'll use a length of old exhaust pipe to direct some air from a heat gun onto the bolts and then use another length on my ratchet to get a bit more torque onto the offending bolts.

Another update this weekend...

[gordy]

Ahh there you go, selector cables no1, but not showing what secures cable end onto round pin on selector quadrant. Ah well...

[Argee]

Ahh there you go, selector cables no1, but not showing what secures cable end onto round pin on selector quadrant. Ah well...

 

umm...I'm probably misunderstanding your post....(sorry if I am)...they are just push fit and the cable end can be levered up.

[Argee]

Update on my slow progress:

I managed to take out the earlier mentioned 3 bolts :-)
I used a heat gun to try to free off the top steering knuckle bolts....and managed to melt the CV boot cover.... :-/ (I should've used a few layers of foil as a heat shield.)  

Then broke a ring spanner trying to undo them. Tried an impact screwdriver, and I think I knackered that too.  Then managed to undo them with a breaker bar and a deep impact socket.  

Then more fun trying to shift the axle nuts!!  I upgraded to using a blowtorch along with lots of WD-40, but still couldn't free them. At one point I thought I had loosened one of them - but it was my breaker bar that had given way! :

 

 

 

I bought a bigger breaker bar and had to use an extension tube on it to get the axle nuts off - I have no idea who had put them on so tight!
The next pain was trying to free the tie-rod ball joints.  I had to use one of those wedge fork shaped ball joint splitters and a club hammer.

The half shafts came out very easily after I drained the gearbox oil - not that that had anything to do with it!

I noticed that the ABS rings were very corroded (which explains the ABS issues I've had in the past!) so I've ordered some replacements.

I hadn't realised exactly what the 'cradle plate' was but have now started to take it off.  One of the bolts at the back doesn't seem to have an accessible nut and the 2 bolts right at the back corners seem very tight - I retired back to the house without freeing off those 3 bolts.  Oh, I did find that there was a lot of play in the rear of the left suspension control arm, so I've ordered a set of replacement bushes for both sides.

More later.

[maxcaddy]

Doing that job and any similar jobs in the future, would pay you to get hold of a basic 3/4 drive set (i.e. a used set off eBay) the difference when putting your back into pulling a 3/4 bar against a 1/2 one is chalk and cheese. You will need a few 3/4 sockets, as (IMHO) using 3/4 through a 1/2 adapter is a waste of time on really tight stuff.

 

That said, a decent 1/2 impact socket with an air wrench gives a lot of power, and usually is as good as the 3/4 if you can get the access.

[Argee]

Thanks Maxcaddy - I'll keep an eye out for a decent set. Touch wood, my new breaker bar is holding up!

[Argee]

Update time...

I've managed to remove the cradle plate and both lower control arms today. I discovered that both bushes on the lower control arms were very tired.

[Argee]

Does anyone know the correct name for the rectangular rubber and metal mount that goes in the back corners of the cradle plate, and more importantly, where to get a replacement?  The one on the photo is okay.  The other one looks like it wasn't put back properly by the last person who had it off and it's a bit mangled where it fits up inside the body.

Edited March 2, 2019 by Argee

[Fletch]

Im after the same, would have thought subframe bushes would have found the part on ebay but no luck so far, lots of subframe bushes are considered a part of the subframe .

I hope this isnt the case

[Fletch]

https://forum.chryslerminivan.net/showthread.php/27505-need-subframe-(k-frame)-bushing-and-bolts

 

Maybe?

[maxcaddy]

Good site 

 

You could think that following the 'Threads' that a

 

 https://www.trademotion.com/parts/index.cfm?searchText=04684286&make=Chrysler&action=oePartSearch&siteid=213674

 

which says its a 'Bushing Cradle' (sounds right to me) could be the part, but without a picture and sizes, its a bit of guess work    

[brit644]

https://www.parts.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=store.PartInfo&PartNumber=4684287AB&VehicleID=3249&diagram=TE01370&Title%3D-front-lower-ISOLATOR

[brit644]

Tip. Go on yahoo.com not any co.uk...

I live half year in each country [uk, usa] have a 2007 stow n go [in uk] . Here its a chrysler town n country, or dodge caravan and others.

So, use usa search engines....or twill always preference uk results. [Or ebay select usa only] 

Source oem first then look for generic once you have part # to cross reference...Eg..the rear expensive shocks with the fancy name [nivomat] are also made by Monroe..exactly the same.  [i cut n pasted a comment by monroe saying just that in answer to a query]

Dont want to influence but the rock place is considered not cheap here, looks so but load up on shipping..usually ending 30% more.

Just other day I bought egr solenoid..[couldnt get uk] from main dealer...15 quid..bought 4.......

Hey we all have our ways of getting around and sourcing..Tis just the way I do it.

[bignev]

Good idea if you're over there!

 

Sadly most of us aren't, so shipping is a no choice situation - wherever in the US, or world even, it's from. For a fair few parts I've had it was still well under UK prices. 

Like 2 ignition coils for £50. £70 each at motor factors. And having had a Blueprint one fail after a year I thought I'd get a standby for the £16.75 they were.

 

I'm sure it wouldn't work out for bigger / heavier items, a mid section silencer for my 3.3 stow n go was £250 carriage, strangely I didn't go for it !!

 

Moparwholesale are another one I've looked at, but rockauto had more choice than just OEM obviously.

[brit644]

Amazon is always cheapest for shipping. Often when Im in UK I use USA Amazon to ship to daughter in Spain..its still cheaper than Amazon sp.

If the town is a customs hub [airport gateway] is usually less also. One trick, find a supplier and airport to match. Like I use Denver [amazon has customs free zone and major hub] Has direct to Heathrow... Denver/Boulder are major auto store towns also. Plus you can check UPS, USPS and FEDEX from where you sit...Volume is the key not weight most of the time..and speed...also specialists shippers.. I had a road bike shipped direct to home [Wales] in full bike box [20kg]...$170... 4 days by fedex....The shipper had great deals. Also he saves by e-mailing you paperwork and you fill in and return.

Its a little different for me of course. I use to ship containers years ago across the pond ...then a 40ft door to door was 2000 quid...full or 40 ton. 

If ya can make a pallet with mates then LDL... [less than a load] is cheap too.