Electrics

[Fastonbulbus]

At the end of last summer I bought a 2007 GV LTD XS AUTO with 38000 credible miles on the clock, for £3750.  It is a wheelchair accessible vehicle, and typically for that sort of car, it has covered very few miles since purchase. 

 

Last week I was driving after dark, and when I went to full beam, it was  instant dead city. The lights had been getting dimmer, so it is likely to be the alternator, the replacement for which is £350 at my factors. Too much. I decided to look at the brushes, but cannot remove the electrical connector from the right hand side, but suspect it is something to do with the red tab. Advice would be appreciated. The tab seems to be immovable.

 

More worrying is the fact that a fresh battery does not even give dash lights. What can have happened?

 

The car also has a battery drain of 1.74 A. which I was proceeding to fix with a remote switch isolator and in cab LED

 

I might be interested in a good second hand alternator; does anyone have one to sell?.   

 

Thanks    

Edited December 10, 2018 by Fastonbulbus

[QinteQ]

see here : In your case Fastonbulbus start by clearing your canBUS

- NEG off for 15 minutes and new / known to be good [REDTOP Opima] battery. Read then ak

 

Battery

 

Battery choice, like choosing a wife, provokes different opinions on what is beautiful. The issue however are simple. You should be looking for about 800CCA over 80aH, this is a physical size that will not fit the CRD battery tray, so get a big one and modify the tray, or get a smaller one and take your UK winter chances. There is a~n~other UK issue of lifestyle, its a use it or lose it condition. If like me you do 2000 miles per annum with two 15 minutes trips once a week you will regardless of battery size / cost never keep that battery charged, the BUS [over 7 or so days] at resting will use more than the 30 minutes the alternator was able to replace.

 

Different people have success with different batteries, I'm sure the UK users will come to your aid with their suggestions, particularly the Scottish contingent who have an even colder climate than I. For myself I originally had a Banner Uni Bull 690 over 70 and my replacement was a Bosch S5 Type 96 at 800 over 80. Best of luck.

 

Power seat fuse : are as stated droppers, as you have had your battery removed for 4 days the 'droppers' should re-set themselves via the BCM/IPM

 

Lifestyle : Two 15 minutes trips once a week.

 

The  higher  the  voltage  applied,  the  faster the battery will charge, charging at too  high a voltage WILL  damage  your  battery. A simple 100Ah open lead acid  battery and a 180A charger connected to the battery discharged to 50% :

 

- @ 50% full @ 13.2V current was 35A

- @ 50% full @ 14,8V current was 160A [improvement of 457%]

- @ 75% full @ 13.2V current was 1A

- @ 75% full @ 14.8V current was 60A [improvement of 6000%]

 

Its not linear so :

 

- two 15 minute periods @ 13.2V is 2 x 15 minute @ 21Ah, compared to ;

- two 15 minute periods @ 14.4V is 2 x 15 minute @ 60Ah, is an improvement  of  about  300%

 

The temperature sensor under the battery will drop [ temperature compensator's on modern alternators will compensate] the voltage output from about 14.0V to about 13.2V. The problem I have with this is the engine compartment soon reaches temp and the battery assumes its fully charged.

 

- 13.20 volts is about what you would expect from [split diode - does not apply to Voyagers, and] this vehicle with a temp sensor & alternator compensator

- 14.00 volts  is about what you would expect from any typical alternator without a vehicle temp sensor & alternator compensator

- 14.40 volts is what you would expect from a sealed lead acid to prevent [they tend to gas @ 50ºC] excessive gassing

- 14.80 volts is what you can risk pushing it to with an open lead acid to prevent damage to other equipment connected to the battery at the same time

 

NOTE01 : There are IOD 7 functions that are 'live' when you think your car and battery are asleep, they pull a combined 0.025 ampere draw. I used a Maplins cheepo solar panel which cost me £15 at the time, and I have never been unable to start the car since. They are :

 

• Electrical items left on.

• Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.

• Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components.

• An internally shorted generator.

• Intermittent shorts in the wiring

Remote key fob

Radio

Heater blower

Folding mirrors

Central locks

Interior lights when the key is in the ignition

 

 

IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST - reproduced from the workshop manual - According to Chrysler's own workshop manual :

 

Allow twenty minutes for the IOD to stabilize and observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amper- age IOD should not exceed twenty-five milliamperes (0.025 ampere). If the current draw exceeds twenty-five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in Step 4. The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch adjustment, or a component failure is at fault

The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from fifteen to twenty five milliamperes (0.015 to 0.025 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to twenty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment. A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty one days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty one days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Integrated Power Module (IPM). This will reduce battery discharging.

 

BatteryMOD

 

I like many of us was an early adopter of AGM, most of us by now will be AGM. It occurs to me that the safe μF we chose for the buttonMOD could be changed to give closer to 14.4V than the 14.1 I was getting. I went 13.9 to 14.1 it would be nice to have that extra .3V, it would make a hell of a difference on a big 80aH even over such a short charging time frame as 15 minutes.

 

I was thinking 22K Ω @ 1/2 watt would be a goodish guesstimate for keeping it under the 14.6[ish] although I'm sure it would be safe a little higher. I'll be happy if I can get to the extra .3's @ 14.4 * Tested .... smack on 14.4-6 winter and 14+ summer over a 6 month period steady across the REV range. This will better recover the winter loss more quickly. Of course in the summer the ALT output will be limited by the lower battery replenishment needs Well pleased !

 

[BumBle02]

I would look at the earth connections under the battery before buying a new alternator as they do go bad go on ebay for the alternator  got a good one of there a lot cheaper.

Edited December 11, 2018 by BumBle02

[Fastonbulbus]

Hello, thank you for your very helpful information regarding my GV problem; I am not techie myself, but I have someone coming over to help who will find inside knowledge very useful. 

 

Meanwhile, while the vehicle is sitting there doing nothing I have come up with a few iseas of things to do with a dead GV:-

 

* as a gym. Rowing machines are ugly, cluttery things, but you could fit one in the back of the GV and do your daily Putney Bridge to Mortlake stint without causing a ripple.

 

 

*As an office. Walking to work has never been easier. You arrive exercised, hang the coat, unpack the briefcase and get a coffee on to revive you after the commute. Sit back and sip while you think about starting work.

 

*as a planter. Nasturtiums would look good, and as you won't be needing the engine anymore, the bay could be adapted for growing toms.

 

* As an escape pod from political mayhem, be prepared for a long stay (at least 10 years.)

 

* as a survivalist food stash, for the inevitable collapse of civilisation. There is enough room for a year or more of beans, chocolate digestives and jam doughnuts, and you can lock up against the zombie hordes.  

 

Thanks.