Chilly Heater.

[biscuit]

My 2.8 crd voyager has had a new head gasket, thermostat and allegedly flushed through twice under warranty. Problem I have now is that the heater is appalling and starts to get warmish after running for about 30 mins. Apart from heater matrix any ideas welcome.

[scrufgp]

My 2.8 crd voyager has had a new head gasket, thermostat and allegedly flushed through twice under warranty. Problem I have now is that the heater is appalling and starts to get warmish after running for about 30 mins. Apart from heater matrix any ideas welcome.

[scrufgp]

Sounds a lot like air lock

I've not had to deal with 1 on my voyager but years ago on an old Vauxhall I had to back flush it

Ie take the highest water pipe and flush through with a hose pipe

But I'm really not sure how the Chrysler system works

Sorry

[bignev]

Hi pal, where does the temperature gauge get to? If it's not very nearly halfway then the stat is not doing it's job. Whether it's had a new one or not.

And I presume you mean driving, not just idling on the drive.

 

The good news is your diesel versions are self air bleeding I believe, I know my petrol is.

 

DO NOT back flush on these, alloy engines and other reasons, QinteQ has better info. Read a very recent topic on "New Radiator Needed" he has detailed the flush procedure - if indeed you need it. But check your temp gauge first.

Edited September 25, 2018 by bignev

[Semmysonic]

Bignev you may be able to help, Ive got a similar problem, cold heater and it won't switch over to gas.

Temp gauge goes to about halfway

It is an intermittent problem all works fine one day and then plays up the next.

Kind of thinking the thermostat might be sticking

[Semmysonic]

Bignev you may be able to help, Ive got a similar problem, cold heater and it won't switch over to gas.

Temp gauge goes to about halfway

It is an intermittent problem all works fine one day and then plays up the next.

Kind of thinking the thermostat might be sticking

[bignev]

Hiya pal not seen you for a while!

 

Double check the coolant level - you probably already have! The gauge can go to normal (halfway as you say) or high if it's low on water, then the temp sensor for the gas doesn't get hot enough to do the changeover!

 

We have a whole lot of coolant on the 3.3 - about 12 litres - so you can lose quite a lot and still sort of ok - May Bank Holiday I lost 3.5 litres on the way to Blackpool but it was still normal temp! Water pump fault / leak!!

[Semmysonic]

Been busy and believe it or not I've had no problems with the bus (touch wood) even sailed through the mot with no problems!

 

I honestly haven't checked anything as yet, it's not long started playing up. I will check the levels later.

 

Cheers as always for the advice

[biscuit]

Hi bignev, until today the temp gauge has been running around the halfway mark, but today with the heater off it sailed up to 3/4 I backed of the throttle and the gauge started to drop. I sat engine off for awhile then on the run home even doing 45 to 55 mph up went the gauge. I gather it's still poor cooling via the rad. Looks like a trip back to the garage!

[bignev]

OOH yep that's rather obviously not good, yeah I'd agree if it's under warranty get it back to them and they can have the mither!!

 

Was the original problem overheating - guessing but just re-read the start of the post?

 

Yes it sounds like it's certainly clogged somewhere, a couple of the other guys, @@andyb2000 and @@QinteQ would know far more on the diesels!

[Semmysonic]

No joy, topped up the coolant, took it on a 100 mile run.

Slow to switch to gas and no warm air from heaters. After about 20 miles m/way driving it started misfiring on gas. Had to manually switch it to petrol to carry on.

Confident its not the gas system because of the heaters not blowing hot at the same time.

Could it be a blockage in the coolant system?

[bignev]

Hmmm, bit of guess work, but yes I agree, if the thermostat is sticking open - in the default "failed" position - then the heater will be poor, and the gas will take a lot longer to changeover.

It's usually around 35 to 40 degrees, but of course if the LPG ecu has gone side ways a bit it could be looking for a higher temperature, my first one took ages to get onto gas when the first winter came, soon had it reset and it was fine.

 

So if the coolant temp is too cool - well as far as the LPG system is concerned, the gas could have been switching back and forth.

 

As I say a bit of guesswork!

 

The good news is the location of the thermostat on ours hey! At the end of the hose right hand side (passenger UK) of the engine under / forward of the ignition coil.

[QinteQ]

Quick 'n effective is an inline statMOD from Andy........

 

Inline stat, £10 + 10 minutes.

Air dam lagging, £1 + 10 minutes.
Battery mod, 20p + 5 minutes. 

[Semmysonic]

Doing a long run (mostly on petrol) almost brought me to tears, scary how fast the fuel gauge moves!

[Semmysonic]

Silly question, is it possible to change the thermostat without draining the system?

[gordy]

Yes semi you put an old style thermostat inside the top coolant hose. Someone will enhance this issue. As to the cold heater, yes, there's air in that top hose that goes around the top of the cylinder head. To remove the air just find a clip on it, loosen, stick a thin screwdriver in there till air, then coolant comes out, remove screwdriver, re-secure clip and top up header tank. Be Ideal to have a vent atop that hose.

[bignev]

On the 3.3 petrol the hose to the stat also goes to the top connection on the rad, self air venting into the rad, and the rad has a lovely old style rad cap so it's a total piece of cake to fill and vent it.

 

If you don't want to drain it, no worries don't bother, just let the bit out that will weep when you undo the oval 2 bolt flange that holds it, but the stat is a DODDLE to do. Just search the wonderous web for pics - you will see.

 

Filling up so simple it's ridiculous - rad cap off, fill through it, idle engine with heater set to full heat, top up till it starts to come back up as it warms up, put cap back on, job done.

Well nearly - check it a couple of times over the next couple of days. And check the level in the expansion bottle to the passenger side down behind the rad.

[Semmysonic]

Cheers Nev, that's what I was hoping was the procedure.

Had a quick look at the Haynes manual and it started on about draining the system. Thought that was a bit excessive!

[Semmysonic]

No joy, still the same. No heat from heaters. Temp gauge is around the halfway mark.

Should the top cap stay cold when the engine is up to temperature?

[bignev]

Heck no it should be chuffing hot! Try - with a big towel under your hand - taking the cap off, sounds like a load of air still in the top of the rad and system

[Semmysonic]

That's what I thought, it was running for about half an hour, changed over to gas but the radiator and cap was still cold was still cold.

Should the water level be up to the top of the radiator when you take off the rad cap?

[Semmysonic]

Thanks for all your help Nev, feel a bit stupid now, turns out it was trapped wind added a bit more water it had a big 'burp' and hey presto the heaters started warming up.

[bignev]

Hey not a problem pal!

Yes as you've discovered the water should be up to the top of the rad.

A bit odd that it had any trapped air, the stat should have an air weep hole, which if installed correctly at the top allows a very small flow of water and any air to escape past before it opens up, maybe it's not got one and then when it lowered the coolant it went pear shaped from there . But anyway it's good now and that's what matters!

Edited October 6, 2018 by bignev

[Semmysonic]

There was some gunk around the old stat, not sure what they used to seal it previously. Seen some very odd repairs on it in the past on other things so who knows.

Anyway going to keep a close eye in it for a while. Might give it a flush out before winter sets in to make sure there's nothing else in the coolant.