Liam89 Posted September 4, 2018 Report Share Posted September 4, 2018 I’m sure this has been asked before 100’s of times but what oil are people using? Need to do an oil change and always gone to a mechanic before but going to do it my self this time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 QinteQ Posted September 4, 2018 Report Share Posted September 4, 2018 I'm old school and uber low milage high north of england. I learned the hard way and use the good / best 5W/40 full synth spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Liam89 Posted September 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2018 I’m fairly low mileage too. I was thinking 5w40 so nice to have my thoughts confirmed. Any particular types you’d recommend?Oh and I got one of those Genius jump packs on amazon lightning deal! 2000amp for just over £100 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 QinteQ Posted September 4, 2018 Report Share Posted September 4, 2018 Brand is irrelevant to me, you'll note I used the word 'spec' in my #2 post, so the spec counts - my purchase is just price point. I was lucky about 5 years ago I got on a winner and bought 5 jugs for cheap money and I've only used 6 1/2 litres. I've just re-charged (3 times a year) my 'electric handbag' - great believer in the 'get out of jail immediately' card. I have x2 800/80 one of which is permanently on charge all year (9 stage charger) the battery gets changed out every October and May. Ive long adopted [a] 800/80 minimum battery CCA and Fully automatic 9 stage charger which needs no attention and always ON. Best of luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Liam89 Posted September 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2018 Thanks for that QinteQ, what should I be looking out for when you say spec? Or have I misunderstood something?Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 QinteQ Posted September 5, 2018 Report Share Posted September 5, 2018 Specification means the same exact quality and quantity of expensive beneficial additives are used. Just search Amazon for example for fully synthetic and half the offers are for cheaper synthetic (without the full) so be careful. These 'LIFE' fluids are the heart of your car. IMO : - use the Chrysler recommendations- brake fluid is hydroscopic and never ever changed, but should be- auto tranny is a pig, vacuum out and new pink in- never 'backflush' RAD, front flush only- never bodge and use 'additives' (1) The buttonMOD is a cheap, easy, quick DIY massive improvement to battery / maintenance / charging / lifestyle. (2) Screwfix RAD blanking is a cheap, easy, quick massive improvement to winter cold engine efficiency / cold cabin heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Liam89 Posted September 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2018 Thank you I’ve got resistors to do so if anyone needs some I should have spare as there are no maplin any more. Do you have a link to the rad mod? Sounds interesting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 QinteQ Posted September 5, 2018 Report Share Posted September 5, 2018 - get some lagging from Screwfix 99p a length - cut to fit in the grill - throw away come summer if you need to - do the same next year.- putting a new stat in is a pigs job - fit an inline stat - 20 minutes - £20 - GATES Part Number TH01489 from rockauto uk- temp should be just under 1/2, any less than that and you will never get heat regardless- any less than 1/2 on the gauge in winter and fuel costs rise by 5p per gallon- quick school runs only and you will never get heat from the big engine lump The Webasto light should come on at will or at all only if the heater is switched on and on auto digital temp. Example it will never come on even @ -20 °C if the heating is switched off. Best of luck. Here's the thread from 3 years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Liam89 Posted September 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2018 Thanks again mate one more thing, with the oil, I found my manual and it says about using ACEA A3/B3 or A3/B4. Is it important to find an oil with those specs too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 QinteQ Posted September 7, 2018 Report Share Posted September 7, 2018 You have no sig line telling me what your car details are, so what car do you have ?. My above posts give my opinion on my Chrysler 04-07 MkIII but that applies to most cars. Are you telling me your Chrysler owners manual tells you to use ACEA A3/B3 ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 QinteQ Posted September 8, 2018 Report Share Posted September 8, 2018 The EU "green" obsessed (ACEA itself) does not approve the oils, they set the standards and oil manufacturer's may make performance claims for their products if those satisfy the relevant requirements. Hence my reason for asking if the Chrysler "Mopar" obsessed tells you to use a Euro Standard ! Modern Chrysler's of course are Euro Fiat but mine and maybe yours are/might not be. For me I'll always [as already stated] give my GV the very highest spec protection I can because I want it to give me the very best protection it can - that's not an emotional value-item, it's an objective scientific fact. The ACEA oil you mention may well be "full-synth" (you check) but will always be deliberately misinterpreted by Sellers to sell you cheaper part-synth. You decide my friend ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Liam89 Posted September 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2018 Sorry thought I said for a 2.8crd 2007. This is what the manual says (if I can upload the pictures). I like you want the best for the car and with it only doing mainly short trips I want it to be right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 bignev Posted September 8, 2018 Report Share Posted September 8, 2018 Ah now am I right that this version was built in Europe, like mine, so that would be why they've listed the Euro standard after their preferred API one?!Got to comply for the world's markets hey!! Either way, I agree, for these, fully synthetic, change it often enough, not on mileage as QinteQ says, keep it sweet! Condensation forms in engine and exhaust on cold start up that is only evaporated off if it gets hot enough. That's then water in the oil if not - tiny amount each time though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 bignev Posted September 8, 2018 Report Share Posted September 8, 2018 Ah now am I right that this version was built in Europe, like mine, so that would be why they've listed the Euro standard after their preferred API one?!Got to comply for the world's markets hey!! Either way, I agree, for these, fully synthetic, change it often enough, not on mileage as QinteQ says, keep it sweet! Oil is less mither, & cheaper, than repairs, probably anyway! Condensation forms in engine and exhaust on cold start up that is only evaporated off if it gets hot enough. That's then water in the oil if not - tiny amount each time though. QinteQ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Liam89 Posted September 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2018 So any full synthetic 5w40 would be the thing to go for? Was thinking casterol edge, mobil1 or shell helix ultra? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 BumBle02 Posted September 8, 2018 Report Share Posted September 8, 2018 I just put in a 10w40 good semi synthetic and change it every 3000 miles keeps the carbon deposits low in a 2.8 crd 2007. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Liam89 Posted September 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2018 Every 3000? Oh boy mines way over due then. Which oil are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 QinteQ Posted September 8, 2018 Report Share Posted September 8, 2018 Spec is spec and ranges from best to worst protection. Here in the (England / Wales) UK we get very few days of sub 5°C. I've used thinner oil for 40 years and certainly all the years I've owned a GV. Low temperatures 5/40 IMO is good because it flows more easily and is therefore able to protect the engine when it is first started from cold. If oil is too thick when cold, it will not circulate freely and will reduce fuel economy. I used to do a full service every January now extremely low milage (2-3k per year) I only do a service (ALL fluids + filters included) every 4-5 years. It's a personal choice, each individual has to decide how they protect themselves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Liam89 Posted September 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2018 Thanks again QinteQ. That’s what I was thinking about the 5w40. Are there any oils you’d pick over others? I’ve been looking on Opie oils and have seen a few brands etc. Casterol on their site recommend their edge range 5w40 but Opie oils say magnatec. Then there’s Mobil1, Shel etc just don’t know what to do! Thanks again for all input so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 QinteQ Posted September 8, 2018 Report Share Posted September 8, 2018 Brand is irrelevant to me, 'spec' is. Synth / semi synth / full synth are different levels of protection and different prices - what people choose to use is their decision. Brake, transmission, coolant, engine fluids should be a minimum of what Chrysler research scientists and engineers say you should use. Equally never ever use snake oil sellers of additives and voodoo magic stuff that obviously changes the multi bi££ion recommendations that Chrysler calls it's specification. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 bignev Posted September 8, 2018 Report Share Posted September 8, 2018 (edited) Oil filler cap on my 3.3 petrol says 5w20!!!!!!! I do have the handbook and it can be almost anything in this country with our temperatures. So I use 5w30 because I can buy that anywhere, I've used my local autofactors standard stock fully synthetic stuff, Granville oils last 2 times at around 3000 to 4000 miles, as it has been doing way too many - way too short journeys with my Mrs, to her mums and hospital appointments. It had also been using a bit more too recently, which I am GUESSING is down to the clearances being larger in the engine when it's cold. Edited September 8, 2018 by bignev QinteQ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 QinteQ Posted September 8, 2018 Report Share Posted September 8, 2018 O/P it's not confusing just pick what quality oil you want to use and pay for. Your (types) choices are simple: full synth or part synth. Your (coldness) number in the UK is simple : 5W/30 full synth will protect you from -30°C to +30°C. We've just had a period of 30°C+ in the UK. Am I bothered ?. No not even a little bit, it was not that temp up here in 'flat cap' land and I've used and trusted full synth with all four of my common rail CRD's for 40+ years without any issues - you get what you pay for. NOTE: I've posted the full Chrysler own spec issue engineers workshop manuals dozens of times on this site. I'm assuming what you claimed to be your Chrysler workshop manual was in fact a 'Haynes' generic book. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Best of luck. bignev 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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