2006 Grand Voyager Reverse Problems

[Kroyton]

I have a Chrysler Grand Voyager XS bought recently, I have done less than a thousand miles of around town driving.

 

It is having a problem reversing, no issues with driving forward.

 

I can engage reverse but it feels as if I am reversing with a brake engaged.

 

If I go gently I can reverse the car but I am keen not to damage it.

 

I was trying to figure out if this is a handbrake issue or transmission issue, in diagnosing I found that if I move it from R to D and Back to R without moving it allows the car to reverse a bit, so if I keep doing that I can reverse a bit each time without the feeling of the brake,

 

I have seen suggestions that it may be a sensor or a fault with the alternator that impacts on Transmission Control Unit, but not clear on how I diagnose that.  I do not want garages to go on a "let's replace this that and the other" , I also do not want to pay a Transmission Shop a fortune if the issue can be resolved with a sensor.

 

I am wondering if the car is engaging R and Park at the same time, I am not clear whether Park is applying a brake or a gear?

 

Also considering an OBD2 adapter, these seem to be a minefield, from risky £7 chinese devices that report blow an engine management system, to £100 products that seem to be overkill.  Can anyone recommend an good one that supports Voyager?

 

Seen refererence 'key dance', anyone know what this is?

 

Any suggestions on a way forward, I bought this car because my last Voyager had a problem with transmission that was beyond economic repair.

 

 

[andyb2000]

Hi,

Welcome! Hopefully we can help you out here. First a couple of easy ones.

ODB2 - Don't bother, they're pointless unless you spend best side of 400+ on them for this car, you'll get nothing other than basic codes which wouldn't give you enough info to investigate. Key dance, do a quick search on the forum, basically switching ignition on and off (not starting) 3 times leaving it at ON the last time, the mile indicator should then start to work through codes stored until it then displays END which is the last code. Good for getting the basic codes out of the system.

 

Onto your problem, since it only happens in reverse I'd be thinking more mechanical than gearbox, electrical, selector, etc. First thing, jack up on side of the rear then spin the wheel forward then in reverse, check it spins/moves freely/about the same in both direction. Then swap sides and do the same again.

My guess would be the rear drum parking breaks have either dropped apart or damaged in there and are jamming in reverse, so you really need to check that out first. Probably will need a drum repair/replacement kit (springs, clips, etc) as they're notoriously rubbish on these cars and often fail.

 

I'd say do that and then see what you get first before starting to look at worse case with the transmission, etc.

[Kroyton]

Hi Andy

 

Thanks for your reply.

 

I tried the key dance and it says "Done" which I gather means no codes to show.

 

Both sides of the wheel spin freely so I guess that rules out the drum

 

At first I thought it was the brakes but the fact that without moving forward (to unclog brake if it had a problem) but just moving from R to D and bank to R it frees it up for a few meters and then have to do R to D and bank to R again and again to get it to move easily

 

I think it might me something in the electronics that set the gear because again, nothing moved in that R to D to R shuffle, except the engagement of the R gear.

 

http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/373-grand-voyager-auto-jumping-in-reverse-problem/

 

That page said it might even be the alternator although I have had no charging issues, but you know how these things are, one sensor gives a dodgy reading and the electronics misinterpret.

 

Of course it could be the gear is stuck between R and Park I guess, the problem with Transmission shops is they just want to swap out very expensive parts such as whole transmission at £2.5k or other whole parts at £1.3k.

 

The above page also suggested an OBD2 but as you say probably useless at my budget.

 

I did find this software

 

https://www.obdautodoctor.com/

 

which can run on a laptop as well as phone, it has a free edtion as well as some better options

 

https://www.obdautodoctor.com/compare-editions

 

I am going to order a mid range unit and see what the above does, I guess it will be useful to own such a thing for diags,  I found the apps below in my search which may help others.

 

https://itunes.apple.com/gb/app/car-scanner-elm-obd2/id1259933623?mt=8

 

https://itunes.apple.com/gb/app/obd2-expert/id1142156521?mt=8

 

https://itunes.apple.com/gb/app/carista-obd2/id954363569?mt=8

 

Thanks a lot for your help so far, any other suggestions of what to get them to look for next would be great!

 

---------------

 

 

Hi,

Welcome! Hopefully we can help you out here. First a couple of easy ones.

ODB2 - Don't bother, they're pointless unless you spend best side of 400+ on them for this car, you'll get nothing other than basic codes which wouldn't give you enough info to investigate. Key dance, do a quick search on the forum, basically switching ignition on and off (not starting) 3 times leaving it at ON the last time, the mile indicator should then start to work through codes stored until it then displays END which is the last code. Good for getting the basic codes out of the system.

 

Onto your problem, since it only happens in reverse I'd be thinking more mechanical than gearbox, electrical, selector, etc. First thing, jack up on side of the rear then spin the wheel forward then in reverse, check it spins/moves freely/about the same in both direction. Then swap sides and do the same again.

My guess would be the rear drum parking breaks have either dropped apart or damaged in there and are jamming in reverse, so you really need to check that out first. Probably will need a drum repair/replacement kit (springs, clips, etc) as they're notoriously rubbish on these cars and often fail.

 

I'd say do that and then see what you get first before starting to look at worse case with the transmission, etc.

 

[Taronga76]

Did you solve this at all? I am now having the same problem with my voyager.

 

Thank-you

[Alex]

I had same problem on mine. After ripping my gearbox out and having it in million pieces turned out to be...... Torque converter failed. Reverse and 1st gear hesitatation are generally signs of torque converter failure. Unfortunately it's whole gearbox rebuild as generally more stuff like snap rings break due strain etc from failing torque converter. I successfully rebuild mine. Lots of info available from helpful American's on YouTube but not a job for faint hearted.

[labas]

The post is old, but answer can be useful for others.
As transmitting spins  from engine to the wheels is done by ''oil turbine'', there is often common problem of to high oil level in the automatic gearbox.
Oil level must be measured in warm gearbox oil only. If oil level is to high- the oil pressure making wheels to spin, will be ''eaten'' by the oil, which should not be in the way of transmitting energy.
Example: if you spray the water to a wall, with high pressure cleaner- there is pressure on the wall. If you try to spray water in same way, but thru the falling water in between of pressure cleaner and a wall- you get no pressure on the wall or low pressure, as the falling water will cut part of energy.
There can be many small problems, which couse the oil level change. Changing oil, often service put inn same amount- they should alit less every time, and refill after some days, as there is small amount ''growing'' in side the gearbox by time. No one care, as it is not much, but by long time, older car- best is to recheck oil level at least 1 time a 5 year.
Metal ''scraps'' go down to magnet- lift up oil level.
Common problems after changing oil in automatic gear box:
Revers not working
one or more gear cant engage
disengaging gear (often while in standing, and not driving, exception- reverse.)

Couse:
to high oil level in gearbox
 air bubble in gearbox mechanical computer (gearbox control module)

Gearbox mechanical/oil pressure computer, is based on pressure it gets. If there is some air after oil change- pressure will act same as with the braking system when there is air (unstable pressure).
This can couse some gear to not engage, as it mechanically engaging by oil pressure in the ''computer''.
Solution- removing air from gearbox control module. How- can't help with that.

Couse to disappear of revers, can be one of the given common problems after oil change.

The other place to search if it is not after oil change or oil level to high:
electronic control module for gearbox (usually on the left side under the hood, or outer- near the left front wheel, over the plastic covers)
Pistons in the mechanical control module is jammed or mowing problems (mechanical computer-mechanical control module sits on the side of the gearbox, and usually has plug with many wire, which is tightened with a screw to the control module)

UPPS!!! -calibration can be required after replacing electronic.
Electronic control module can be replaced with a same, or same kind- must research. It will act strange if replaced with the not compatible.

Mechanical control module can be unscrewed, checked, replaced with compatible to the electronic control module.

Hope it will help to people.