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Electrical Issue, Cutting Out And P0530 Error Code


chrisdavisberry
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Hi, 

 

I have a 2006 2.8 CRD Grand Voyager (automatic)

 

It had been running great until i flushed the coolant (by removing the passenger side bottom radiator hose - it did get messy!) and after this i have had some odd behaviour now resulting in an engine management light and cutting out. 

 

The coolant change could be a coincidence!

 

To break down the symptoms/ issues: 

 

1. I noticed the left indicator flashing double speed. I assumed bulbs but having checked all and tested i noticed it only occurs when there is something else calling for power. 

For example indicating left is fine until i press the brake then indicator speeds up. The same occurs if the car lights are switched on. 

On inspection the left rear cluster is all dim as if it has low voltage. 

When just indicating left (no other power) the indicator looks slightly dimmer than the right indicator bulb. 

 

2. After a couple of days the car displayed an engine management light and about 1 min later cut out whilst driving. Both times it occurred after a left turn and indicating. 

After switching off the car for about 10 seconds and restarting it then drove fine and the Engine warning light went out. 

 

3. The cars performance was unaffected apart from the cut out. It accelerates perfectly, maintains speed etc etc. 

 

4. 3 days after the light first showed and the car cut out I have had the car parked up and running to try and diagnose. It starts and idles perfectly every time.

The same issue exists with indicator and lights/other power causing a power drop.  

 

 

5. I have noticed that when engaging drive the power drops and can cause immediate shut down. (This involves foot on the break when coming out of park). 

 

6. All electrical systems work exactly as the should except indicator (when accompanied by other use of power - lights, braking etc). Literally every switch does what it should (doors, lights, etc).

 

7. The engine management light comes on after a few attempts to put the car into drive and reverse and always comes on after it cuts out. 

 

8. I have noticed coolant leaking from the driver side bottom of the radiator just above the drain off.

 

8. Turning the key 3 times with the engine management light on displays: P0530 error code. 

 

I found this online re the error code: ( a lot say air con - which does need charging) but i also read the code is very general 

 

"The P0530 Chrysler Voyager Check Engine lamp is perhaps the most troubling of lights because it could mean so many different things, from you didn't screw the gas cap on tightly enough to look out for pistons flying through the hood and into the stratosphere. "

 

P0530 Chrysler Voyager DTC Meaning

P Powertrain Code - Problem is related engine, transmission and emissions systems.

0 SAE - Generic

5 Auxiliary Emission Controls

3 Low Coolant Circuit

0 Transmission Engaged At High Throttle Angle

 

 

Any ideas any one? 

 

I do want to check the earth connections - I just dont know where they all might be on this car but will search now while waiting for replies - i feel like if i can figure out why the left side lights etc are dim it might help me find the issue. 

 

(Currently all the casing is off and i have stripped back a few areas of the cable casing to check for obvious breaks... nothing found on the wiring so far!) 

 

Any help would be hugely appreciated. 

 

Thanks

Chris

Edited by chrisdavisberry
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Hi there,

 

Firstly, good post, thanks for posting all the info, hopefully will get this figured out for you!

I don't think the coolant change was coincidence, I fully suspect you've soaked your PCM for the autobox and/or wiring loom as down by the battery side there are a lot of the main wiring looms along with the BCM and PCM lower down for the auto box (PCM behind the wheel arch if memory serves me correctly).

 

I'm wondering if you've managed to get coolant into either some key sensors/connectors and these are causing the electrical issues. The autobox has a couple of connectors almost directly underneath the water expansion bottle, so first would be to check those two connectors are clean and water-free.

 

Double-speed indicators normally indicate a lack of current draw, so either a poor ground or as you rightly say damaged bulbs, so since we've eliminated bulbs then it would be reasonable to assume damaged ground. Why not grab a quick/dirty ground cable between battery and the terminal block for the indicator bulb to give it a good ground, see if it gets rid of that problem, it would confirm the thinking.

 

It could also be the reason for the power drop/cut out, as my thinking is the sensors for the autobox and crank sensors are getting faulty data, which in turn is causing the ECU to get confused and as fail-safe it cuts the engine.

 

I need to take a look at the tech diagrams, but I think there is an earthing strap right below the expansion bottle, or at least down in that region which again might have been affected when you gave it an early bath!

 

Whilst you're checking, might be worth taking the fusebox out and checking the connectors underneath it, they tend to get lots of dust and debris in there and again a little connector fault like that sounds most likely in your case.

 

I'll go check for the earthing points to see if they're where I remember them!

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Quick update.

 

Grounding strap wasn't down there, main one between chassis and engine is left hand side beside timing cover.

However, looking down the right side of the radiator and the hose you probably removed I spotted the autobox controller (TCM), so my instinct would be to remove the battery, and then disconnect the main connector into this (It's a large multi-pin connector at the top of it) and check for water. Then check the other wiring looms and connectors beside it as there are a few there doing the same thing.

 

Good luck, and hopefully a bit of warm weather and warmth from the engine it'll probably go away!

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Hi Andy, 

 

Thanks for your help. It is really appreciated. 

 

I found that grounding strap beside the timing cover. It appears to be fine. I was looking for something bigger! 

I've also tried a jump lead to reinforce that earth and it makes no difference so i'm not expecting the earth to be an issue (at least not there!) 

 

I spotted the autobox controller (TCM) where you said and it would have been right in the path of my overflowing fill. Access is tricky and it has a bolt on top of the connector from what I can see. I should be able to get  it undone... somehow!

I will try taking out the battery and whatever else i can to get access.  I will see if there are any guides on advice on how to remove this connector.

 

I will also check the wiring loom that would have had most the water on it. 

 

Thanks again for the suggestions... I will let you know how i get on. 

 

Cheers

Chris

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No problem, and yep that looks like the most likely to me, especially the fast indicator symptoms too.

 

I'd say battery disconnected regardless for now, make sure the water can't do any damage! Then perhaps just getting it dried and nice and warm will help. Ideally you want to avoid the water drying in place and causing corrosion of the terminals, connectors, etc, but if all else fails make sure it's all dry.

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Quick update (checking for wet connections etc): 

 

I got access to the autobox controller (TCM) and removed the connector. It was looking a little wet (nothing pooled but damp). 

I got a dryer on the pins and connector for 10 mins but no obvious change once it was all back together.  Maybe its not dry enough. 

I will leave the car to idol tomorrow to create some heat. 

 

 

Things left to check re wet connections etc

 

  • The main wiring loom is so tightly wrapped i haven't undone the largest part to check for any potential water issues. Its the last place i have left to check for water... but unless there is a damaged wire/s i don't see that this will be the cause of the issues even if it is wet. 

 

Extra Information/Clarification

 

I mentioned the double speed indicators in my first post.  I'm thinking this could be misleading as its only one of a few symptoms but all evident on the left hand side of the car's electrics: 

  • If I brake with the lights on the whole left light cluster is dimmer and flickering slightly. 
  • Even with just lights on the left (passenger side) lights appear slightly dimmer than the right. 
  • Electrics on right seem fine. 

 

Engine management light:

  • This goes off after a while when the car idols but I have manged to get it to come back on by repeatedly going into drive and reverse (just a few meters) a few times.

 

I am assuming the two issues engine management light and lack of available current for electrics are related. The lack of power causing the car to cut out. 

 

 

Interior bulb out

 

I have spotted on bulb out on the passenger side reading light - well its not working at all so im assuming a bulb has gone - but it seems unlikely this is causing the issue but i will get it changed anyway. 

 

 

Any ideas?

 

I would like to understand why the symptoms all show on the left not the right. Does it help narrow down the fault? 

 

 

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One more update: 

 

Today the auto gearbox display started behaving oddly. 

 

On park the usual square indicator to mark the selected gear was displayed on all gears. Once selected only one gear showed. It then kept doing this until the engine light came on. 

After restarting the display was back to normal. 

 

The same issue persists with low electrics on the left side (passenger) of the vehicle. 

 

I suspect Andy's note about the autobox controller (TCM)  - i assume this is the Transmission Control Unitcould be the key here. I did take of the connector but i'm now wondering if water can get into the actual box itself via the connector. I have never seen inside one but it does have a load of screws on what looks like the cover so i assume it can be unscrewed. 

 

If its got water in would it be ruined and need a new one? Or could it be dried. 

 

Thanks

Edited by chrisdavisberry
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Hi there!

 

I had the problem with all the gears being indicated on the display, I hope you sort yours, mine never did, it went to the dismantlers (rather than scrap at least). Mine however would not use any other forward gears than 2nd, shifted into reverse park and neutral all OK.

The engine light came on mine too, and may be related to the not shifting, as emissions would be affected.

 

The inside of the Transmission Control Module (you are correct) is kind of jellified substance so is very unlikely to be wet in there, but worth a look.

It's probable that there is a lack of communication TCM to BCM (Body) that's causing that problem, and is very likely to be connected with the water in wiring / bad earth somewhere

The "key dance" MIGHT give you the code for that, mine did at first, then later it couldn't be bothered, ruddy rude thing.

 

When I was searching to sort mine I found reference to a common bad wire connection in the main wiring loom in front and below the auto box, but mine sadly wasn't the problem.

I didn't have any of your other electrical problems, but maybe that was just a fluke hey!!

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I'm really bad with electrical issues, can do mechanics only :(

Don't know about your skills, but it is always worth it to find local electrically minded guy who can have a look at it - I'm sure there is a lot of Lithuanians or Polish guys around you , and they love Voyagers (Just like me) for a return trips to Poland.

 

Other pair of eyes may see what your can't, maybe rat or mouse cut the wire, you never know.

 

Try to replace/clean the indicator/lights/etc shifter...

 

Question:

 

Does your engine is cutting of on the idle or when you accelerate, and trying to build up a speed?

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Hi, 

 

 

Question:

 

Does your engine is cutting of on the idle or when you accelerate, and trying to build up a speed?

 

 

No It's fine on idle and a lot of the time when driving.

 

But the issue does arise when repeatedly selecting drive, reverse, low or 3rd - but only occasionally. I can see the drop in power at this point and it could be linked to the cut out. 

 

I'm sure its all electrical and water related. I have not taking the wiring loom apart yet. There is a major joint area which i would have soaked when i overflowed the coolant bottle. 

I dont know whats in there yet but i assumed it was only the wires all coming together for safe routing rather than any actual connections. within the wiring loom itself. 

 

Cheers

Chris

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Sorry, just catching back up on the thread here!

I'm still going for water in there. When all the gearshift selector lights come on it's because the TCM (correct, Transmission Control Module!) cannot sense the correct selection of gears, i.e. there is a communications problem between the TCM, gearshift and BCM.

So this continues to point me to the same conclusion that you're getting water bridging/causing voltage leakage.

Even more so when you confirm the odd electrical behaviour of dimming lights depending on certain circuits being engaged, that always points to water causing a very slight bridge between connectors/circuits and causing voltage leakage, or a different path to ground, and with it being through water the path is weaker than the proper grounding straps/points and so causes the dimming (cannot carry full current).

 

I think I'd be going more along the lines of the connectors rather than the main loom itself, as you say the loom is kinda sealed, or at least each wire in the loom is sealed unless there has been cuts/damage to it I'd suspect this isn't the source of problems.

 

Keep looking all around that area, if you spot a connector, then disconnect it, clean the contacts (Dry the top and bottom of the connectors, remember the top of the connector where the wires enter are usually open/exposed so a good place for a bit of moisture) and reconnect. ALWAYS do this with battery disconnected to ensure you don't disrupt any of the comms whilst the car appears idle, it's busy talking to it's modules!

I'm desperately trying to find my photos when I did the flexplate on mine as after replacing it all I left off a connector to the autobox itself (I think it was one of the sensors) and this caused all positions to illuminate, so my thinking is if this sensor has had a wash then it might be giving bad data back.

That will probably also be your cause for engine management, it's a transient fault since the management light keeps going out again so it's not one of the "critical" engine functions.

 

Sorry I can't give anything more specific at the moment, but I'm still at the same point, keep checking, cleaning and drying off what you can find down there!

Edited by andyb2000
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Today I have been drying all connectors and stripping the wiring loom where i know it got soaked.

 

Having put it all together there was no sign of the engine management fault but I still had the electrical error on the indicator/rear lights etc. 

 

As it was all on the left i was trying to isolate that by pulling fuses and testing the car with different fuses out.

 

When i had the RT Park/Tail & the LF Park/Tail fuses removed - I noticed I was now only getting the odd lights / fast indicator symptom when I engaged the car in reverse. 

 

I rechecked all the bulbs and found no error. But on removing the left indicator bulb i spotted the lights were dimming etc as i touched or moved the light block.

 

I spotted the rear light cluster cable connection was slightly loose and the securing clip has been previously damaged. I swapped the unit for the one on the right of the vehicle (including the indicator bulb from that side) and all appears to be okay/ normal now with the lights... although i broke a bulb whilst removing it so need to replace this in the morning. 

 

It appears the rear cluster could have been causing the lights error. 

 

Because it has coincided with me stripping and drying the engine connections and loom, I am not sure whether it could have been the cause of the engine management light and the cut out? 

 

I am re-taping the loom tomorrow and will test drive the car after this. As well as collecting a replacement bulb to confirm all the electrics are working as normal. 

 

I will keep you posted here about how it goes but fingers crossed I could be getting closer to solving this. 

 

Thanks for all the help and suggestions its kept me going!!!

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