Battery Drain Probs (I Think This Seems To Be Common?) And Other Stuff!

[Tim]

Hi All - can anyone help please?

 

I have a Voyager Executive (MkIII), 2008 model.

 

The battery continually goes flat overnight (more so in winter). A new one was fitted 6 months ago and the alternator is outputting 13.8 volts. On average, my daily mileage is 15 - 20 miles, so I would have thought that this was sufficient to charge it up (I've not experienced this prob with any other make car I've had in the past, doing the same mileage). Chrysler dealership has looked at the vehicle, run a diagnostics test (at MASSIVE expense) and cannot find a fault......

 

I'd really appreciate any advice anyone might have to rectify this problem. I'm currently disconnecting the battery each evening and reconnecting before I go to work in the morning and having checked its terminals with a voltmeter, it's definitely retaining its charge, so not faulty. BTW this is now the 3rd battery in 18 months!

 

Other probs (all electrically-related):

 

• high-pitched noise for about 10 minutes after the engine's switched off
• speakers occasionally crackle with radio switched OFF (particularly in wet weather)
• radio intermittent
• in wet weather ABS light comes on
• airbag light comes on for no reason (intermittent)
• electric door mirrors intermittent
• when turning over, engine occasionally stalls
• instrument panel needles fly up to max and then drop back to zero
• when stationary after driving to work, white smoke occasionally billows out from underneath the car (underneath the rear doors, and there is a dreadful smell of exhaust fumes (although there appears to be no hole in the exhaust (it has just gone through an MoT!)

Really P***ed off with this car (and the dealership for that matter!)....

 

HELP PLEASE!!

 

Regards

 

Tim.

 

 

 

 

[K3nshi]

When I bought My grand voyager in 2009 I had this very same problem, the issue I had was the battery that was fitted was a trickle charge battery, my daily journeys where 15-20 mins this wasn't enough to charge the battery I spoke to Chrysler assist and they replace it with a fast charge battery,

 

I have since replaced the battery again recently but didn't use Chrysler as they wanted £475, forgot where I got it from but will look cost £166 still a lot for a battery but didn't need to re-mortgage

 

hope this helps

[QinteQ]

Battery choice, like choosing a wife, provokes different opinions on what is beautiful. The issue however are simple. You should be looking for about 800CCA over 80aH, this is a physical size that will not fit the CRD battery tray, so get a big one and modify the tray, or get a smaller one and take your UK winter chances. There is a~n~other UK issue of lifestyle, its a use it or lose it condition. If like me you do 2000 miles per annum with two 15 minutes trips once a week you will regardless of battery size / cost never keep that battery charged, the BUS [over 7 or so days] at resting will use more than the 30 minutes the alternator was able to replace.

 

Different people have success with different batteries, I'm sure the UK users will come to your aid with their suggestions, particularly the Scottish contingent who have an even colder climate than I. For myself I originally had a Banner Uni Bull 690 over 70 and my replacement was a Bosch S5 Type 96 at 800 over 80. Best of luck.

 

Lifestyle : Two 15 minutes trips once a week.

 

The  higher  the  voltage  applied,  the  faster the battery will charge, charging at too  high a voltage WILL  damage  your  battery. A simple 100Ah open lead acid  battery and a 180A charger connected to the battery discharged to 50% :

 

- @ 50% full @ 13.2V current was 35A

- @ 50% full @ 14,8V current was 160A [improvement of 457%]

- @ 75% full @ 13.2V current was 1A

- @ 75% full @ 14.8V current was 60A [improvement of 6000%]

 

- two 15 minute periods @ 13.2V is 2 x 15 minute @ 21Ah, compared to ;

- two 15 minute periods @ 14.4V is 2 x 15 minute @ 60Ah, is an improvement  of  about  300%

 

The temperature sensor under the battery will drop [ temperature compensator's on modern alternators will compensate] the voltage output from about 14.0V to about 13.2V. The problem I have with this is the engine compartment soon reaches temp and the battery assumes its fully charged.

 

- 13.20 volts is about what you would expect from [split diode - does not apply to Voyagers, and] this vehicle with a temp sensor & alternator compensator

- 14.00 volts  is about what you would expect from any typical alternator without a vehicle temp sensor & alternator compensator

- 14.40 volts is what you would expect from a sealed lead acid to prevent [they tend to gas @ 50ºC] excessive gassing

- 14.80 volts is what you can risk pushing it to with an open lead acid to prevent damage to other equipment connected to the battery at the same time

 

NOTE01 : I wouldn't buy one, or use one, but in the interests of even handed-ness a spiral will do the job - make sure you get the right 'posts' for your type !

NOTE02 : This vendor is cheaper, considerably cheaper for the spiral.

NOTE03 : There are IOD 7 functions that are 'live' when you think your car and battery are asleep, they pull a combined 0.025 ampere draw. I used a Maplins cheepo solar panel which cost me £15 at the time, and I have never been unable to start the car since.

 

IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST - reproduced from the workshop manual - NOTE - My Bold.

The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from fifteen to twenty five milliamperes (0.015 to 0.025 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to twenty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment. A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty one days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty one days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Integrated Power Module (IPM). This will reduce battery discharging. Excessive IOD can be caused by:

• Electrical items left on.
• Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.
• Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components.
• An internally shorted generator.
• Intermittent shorts in the wiring

 

[QinteQ]

Hi All - can anyone help please?

 

I have a Voyager Executive (MkIII), 2008 model.

 

The battery continually goes flat overnight (more so in winter). A new one was fitted 6 months ago and the alternator is outputting 13.8 volts. On average, my daily mileage is 15 - 20 miles, so I would have thought that this was sufficient to charge it up (I've not experienced this prob with any other make car I've had in the past, doing the same mileage). Chrysler dealership has looked at the vehicle, run a diagnostics test (at MASSIVE expense) and cannot find a fault......

 

I'd really appreciate any advice anyone might have to rectify this problem. I'm currently disconnecting the battery each evening and reconnecting before I go to work in the morning and having checked its terminals with a voltmeter, it's definitely retaining its charge, so not faulty. BTW this is now the 3rd battery in 18 months!

 

Other probs (all electrically-related):

 

• high-pitched noise for about 10 minutes after the engine's switched off
• speakers occasionally crackle with radio switched OFF (particularly in wet weather)
• radio intermittent
• in wet weather ABS light comes on
• airbag light comes on for no reason (intermittent)
• electric door mirrors intermittent
• when turning over, engine occasionally stalls
• instrument panel needles fly up to max and then drop back to zero
• when stationary after driving to work, white smoke occasionally billows out from underneath the car (underneath the rear doors, and there is a dreadful smell of exhaust fumes (although there appears to be no hole in the exhaust (it has just gone through an MoT!)

Really P***ed off with this car (and the dealership for that matter!)....

 

HELP PLEASE!!

 

Regards

 

 

I'm currently disconnecting the battery each evening and reconnecting before I go to work in the morning and having checked its terminals with a voltmeter, it's definitely retaining its charge, so not faulty. BTW this is now the 3rd battery in 18 months!

 

- pull the IOD fuse each night instead, it does the same thing but is easier - much easier, it has a special 'ledge' to rest the fuse on, and push it back home in the morning

when stationary after driving to work, white smoke occasionally billows out from underneath the car - high-pitched noise for about 10 minutes after the engine's switched off 

 

- is your AUX heater, and is normal. A separate Webasto diesel water heater under the car comes on and switches off under its own control when cold. The "" about 10 minutes"" is the heater exhausting its un-burnt fuel after you switch off

instrument panel needles fly up to max and then drop back to zero - do a cluster re-set to put the 'pin' in the correct place