2.8Crd Cutting Out Above 2.5K Rpm

[andyb2000]

(Apologies for cross-post from the .com forum, wanted several sets of eyes on it!)

 

Well this one has finally hit me, first the basics.
2005 2.8CRD RHD at 130k miles.

It started to get worse at starting, bit of a feather on the accelerator and it usually fires, after the first long cold start it was better. Had replaced glow plugs a while back and confirmed they're working. Battery in good nick too, have tested and topped it regularly. So eliminates the low turnover, glow plug, cold starting usual potentials. At cold start it gives a cloud of greyish smoke. Have also checked, no oil in water or vice versa, nothing suggesting any issues with head, block, etc (Been there in past GV so know what to look for!).

Yesterday it really struggled to start (-1oC outside all day pretty much) as it was starting then immediately dying out. Bit more throttle and eventually it would start, then runs great, no issues.

Until this morning, again cold (-4oC and was cold all night long, so car stood on driveway), really struggled to start and when it started it sounded 'lumpy' almost as though not firing on all cylinders. Cloud of greyish smoke at start too. Drove away and after a few minutes the firing seemed to sort itself out and it sounded happy again.
Until about 5 minutes down the road, went to accelerate away from a roundabout (I'm not a heavy foot so I wasn't booting it) and it really spluttered, again like not on all cylinders (But don't think that was it) and then cut out. Rolled to side of road, tried to start and it turned over a few times until with feathering of throttle it started up.
Without load (Sat in park) I can hit the rev limiter at 2.5k and it sounded fine, no stutters or burbles or anything.
As soon as under load and you take it just above 2.5k it stutters struggles then cuts out, no matter what you do you can't 'regain' it after it does that.

So, sat on the driveway, tickling it to start it'll run, sound fine, I can rev it under no load and it's fine. Leave it to idle for a few minutes and you start to hear it 'seek' so revs drop a little then recover, does that a few times then drops too much and it stalls out.

So things I've done/checked:

* About 1yr ago changed the in-tank fuel filter. Mine is the 2.8CRD with the lift pump in the tank at the rear, changed the screw on filter on it, easy enough and filter wasn't too bad. So my suspicion is it's not that. (This is the Grand Voyager without front filter+primer)
* Low pressure lift pump runs at ignition turn on and primes the system, at least it sounds right
* glow plugs are on/working and pulling current, so not those
* P1130 showing many times on key dance - so it's fuel pressure related (makes sense)
* Pressure relief valve on fuel rail - Tested by disconnecting return pipe, seeing what run-off I get, and it's nothing, zero. So not that.
* Checked connector for fuel pressure sensor (on the common-rail towards the front), connector was ok, voltage ok

So questions on what it could be:

* Crank position sensor
* Fuel heater? (Didn't know anything about this, will check it!)
* Fuel pressure solenoid
* High pressure fuel pump
* Injectors (Though could all have failed/faulty?) - Going to do leak test again to verify.

Anyone any suggestions, I think I'm going to have to get it to a CRD specialist to test the high pressure side out to find out whats going on here.
But anything to help please guys would be appreciated.

 

[mikebh8]

Hi, does it do it every time or sometimes it works fine?

For the high pressure test you need something like the one in the link below:

 

https://www.toolstop.co.uk/index.php?option=shop&page=shop.product_details&product_id=53686&l=uk&utm_source=google&utm_medium=base&gclid=CjwKCAiA9rjRBRAeEiwA2SV4ZXLGecY2-1TmCMHaSx0UByUBX9xhBqTGkNAYOwABjFNHddeBuHulHRoCLkgQAvD_BwE

 

I don't remember the values on idle or reved but soon as Im home I'll try find them and post them here.

Just a guess as mine was doing the same few days ago, do you have the top cover on with that bit of foam on it? That would keep the injectors and fuel rail wormer for cold start.

In past one of the cars was doing it intermittently and I found it was a thick black wire with an eye crimp on it disconnected from a bolt....it was touching the body enough to drive but from the vibrations when reved (specially on motorways when accelerating) was coming detached and the engine was cutting off.

 

Hope it helps.

[andyb2000]

Hi Mike, cheers for the reply, think that link was mixed up as thats for petrol compression testing but almost same lines to test the high pressure side, though to be honest don't really fancy tackling that side myself so think it'd be over to a diesel specialist.

 

It's doing it every time now, but temperatures are still cold, I'm willing to wager if it was a warm day it would be OK, fuel system under cold conditions vs fuel under warm conditions maybe?

I do have the top foam on just not the plastic cover, it doesn't appear to be related to vibration as I can get it to do it sat in the driveway today, just start it up (eventually) let it idle for a few minutes and then it'll start to seek on the revs (dipping) and then dip too far and cut out. So from all the connectors and wiring I'm suspecting something other than wiring.

 

Am keeping digging everywhere I can, not sure if I'll try and play it out using the Mrs. car for a bit and get by without it until can have a proper think rather than rushing it to a garage. Thanks again!

[mikebh8]

...it does sound like fuel starvation,

What about the quality of fuel. I once went to France with cooking oil, all fine until next day(-2 or -4 it was) when it did not want to start until I drained two batteries and towed it about 400 metres. But once started it was like running in three pistons and a bit smokey.

I do apologize if I go randomly but hoping at least will take you near the fault...

[matt]

in my experience that's injectors, one or two can leak, when you start on the cold engine have you got heavy smog or just smog? engine starting straightaway or need a little more time? 

[soupstone]

...it does sound like fuel starvation,

What about the quality of fuel. I once went to France with cooking oil, all fine until next day(-2 or -4 it was) when it did not want to start until I drained two batteries and towed it about 400 metres. But once started it was like running in three pistons and a bit smokey.

I do apologize if I go randomly but hoping at least will take you near the fault...

 Off topic, but was that a CRD on cooking oil? Ran my first voyager on bio as it was the CRD. 

Don't make bio any more, but if someones successfully ran on veg in the hotter months, I'd give it a go. 

[mikebh8]

Off topic, but was that a CRD on cooking oil? Ran my first voyager on bio as it was the CRD. 

Don't make bio any more, but if someones successfully ran on veg in the hotter months, I'd give it a go.

 

Yes it was, I actually heard that used one is better but never tried it, straight from the shop. It did not start the next day because I became greedy by pouring 100% oil when the recipe is 50-50 ( oil -diesel) in the winter and 70-30 in the summer.

[andyb2000]

Thanks all

@@mikebh8 interesting about fuel, this runs on 'regular' supermarket diesel (I know people slate it) and funny enough I just filled up full from Tesco (I normally use Asda) the morning before it acted terrible so there might be something to that. I'm tempted to throw an additive in there too to up the ron and see what it gives me. PS keep throwing ideas in, if I can find something before I'm desperate to get it into a garage and part with my wallet the better!

 

@@matt thanks, thats good info as I'm pointing to the high pressure side, so pump and injectors really since I've eliminated relief valve. I'll do the individual injector leak/return tests when I get a min and see what that yields. Recently it's got heavy smog that you can see pluming into the air, and yes it's had reluctant start for a while now.

[matt]

the easiest way how to "check" injectors, buy Mopar injectors cleaner and if you will see a difference, car will run more smoothly means in 80 % one of the injectors is leaking, that's mean it's time to start thinking to replace the injector.  

I'll buy some (even used but with some warranty injector) and replace one by one take more time but you will save money it really easy to replace injector in that car.

 

I'll recommend the only Mopar injectors cleaner you can find some on eBay or Amazon, nothing from "Tesco" or petrol station - that's poo  -  tested on my car  

[mikebh8]

I had one injector faulty, but after starting it with easy start, would go on until the engine got cold again...I went to Germany last year with the faulty injector and didn't have any problems, only when sat on the drive over night...

But in this case is a bit stranger.

Did you have a diagnostic hooked up( not just the key dance).

I suggest you get a Delphi, it does the job and it only cost around £60 and it works on any windows, I have it on a windows 7, 8.1 and an old xp (I don't know on windows 10 as I uninstalled it and went back to windows 8.1

Also, if left on idle would it run continusly( sorry you might have mentioned already) ifbit does it only when accelerating, what about the thortle position body?

[mikebh8]

I was looking online ( random diesel engines with same fault) and I found this...looks interesting.

And the first comment is from a guy called Chad that had the same fault on his town and country, it might be it...even though is very strange diagnostic.

 

 

http://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/92420/The-dreaded-engine-surge?Page=5 

[andyb2000]

Thanks mikebh8, some good info there. I've got the autel maxidiag eu702 which whilst it gets the ABS, SRS, etc, it won't pull the standard codes! (Not sure if I'm missing an update or something) So no, only keydance codes I've retrieved. I've looked at the Delphi and thought about getting it, though trying to find the right one and supplier seems problematic, a link or direct would be good if you know of one (pm me if preferred).

 

My thinking on injectors was more than one acting up causing a loss of pressure on the rail, hence I want to do the injector return test again and see if I get one or more returning a lot of fuel so will do that over next couple of days.

Oddly, I can still get it to startup without easystart, etc, it just wont keep going/under power.

[mikebh8]

This the one is like the one I have

Just can't send you the link as is through ebay and it won't let me while logged in.

On mine the key dance was showing only...I don't remember the code...but related to the key itself, when connected the Delphi showed two more, fuel related....when I eventually got it running.

Also it can stream live data for abs and injector banks

Plus you need autodata, is a lot of information there that helps with cars.

When I get home I'll send you some links...if I can, my copy is through an account on filelist.

[andyb2000]

Hi folks,

 

Sorry for a few days gap (Wife was in surgery, so hope recovering now) so back onto the car problem!

Yesterday it was a warmer day (4oC) so I started it up in the drive, it started up (struggled as expected, little wiggle on accelerator and it started up) and I left it idling, which it couldn't manage the other day. It sat idling for 15 minutes without stalling out, I could see the revs still dipping and recovering occasionally.

 

I then went to take it for a drive this morning and again as soon as it went over around 2.5k RPM it cut out again, so this to me confirms/eliminates a few things.

Firstly, not fuel sludging/freezing/slush as it was warmer this morning.

I've added the diesel injector additive, so in theory it's not poor quality diesel.

 

What I noticed, is when it cut out, I tried to restart immediately from the ACC/RUN position. Starter motor turned over and was trying, but no matter what it wouldn't fire.

As soon as I turn key totally off, then back on to start it almost started straight away. The key bit here? That made the low pressure lift pump come on (I heard it) and re-prime the system. So that points to either air or filter problems feeding the system.

 

That's the job for today! (After replacing the top suspension mounts on my wifes car!)

[Expoman]

Andy,

 

I'm also experiencing the engine cutout problem on my 2007 GV 2.8 CRD.

 

New injectors recently fitted, problem persists.

 

My current suspicion was that the immobiliser could be causing the problem as after the engine has cutout and the car stopped, I cannot restart however remove the key, lock the car, unlock then turn it over, it starts first time, every time.

 

Research on the web indicates that a alternative could be in the area of the fuel filter or the electrics on the fuel filter cap and this seems to be where you are heading.

 

Please keep us informed!

 

Merry Xmas,

 

Steven

[andyb2000]

Hi Steve,

 

Interesting, thanks for the feedback, I'm also thinking it's not injectors as i'd expect more return flow from one or more, and in theory I'd hear 'missing' where one or more were not firing correctly (due to over or under fuelling), which isn't the case, this is a complete cut out.

Interesting the immobiliser, does yours have the red indicator on top of the steering column? If so, does that light during the problem, mine doesn't which is why I'm also eliminating the immobiliser in my case (If the car gets immobilised I'd expect cut out and all dash lights to go out, mine remains lit with what you'd expect if you stalled the car, oil pressure light, etc). The fact that you need to lock then unlock the car though is a decent thinking that it's related to the BCM/Immobiliser on yours, or the chip in the key perhaps. Have you a spare set of keys, if so I'd give those a go to see if any difference?

 

So today I've checked the fuel filter/lift pump. To clear up the confusion, mine is a 2.8CRD 2004/2005 which has an electric lift pump at the rear beside the tank, the filter is inside the plastic pump housing. I've attached photos to be clear! (There are so many variations)

Checked the plastic housing, O-ring, filter and what I could see of the fuel lines and all look good to me, no cracks in the filter housing, filter itself in decent condition, etc.

So now onto my next thought, crank position sensor. I've ordered a replacement VM Motori replacement crank sensor so will swap that and see what I find next!

 

Good luck Steven, hope you get yours tracked down.

 

This is the filter and electric lift pump housing, which is on the driver side (RHD) of the fuel tank just in front of the rear axle:

 

Filter and plastic base housing has been unscrewed/removed:

 

 

Looking straight up into the pump housing:

 

 

Fuel lines running towards front of vehicle. Is it just me or do these look new-ish condition? I think they do and the tank looks relatively new too, so could these have been replaced before I purchased a couple of years ago perhaps?

 

 

So onto the crank sensor. If it's not crank sensor then perhaps fuel solenoid or high pressure pump itself.

 

[Expoman]

Andy,

 

Many thanks for your extremely helpful and informative response.

 

I took her out this morning to check for sure if the oil light, etc., come on or not when the power cuts and would you believe it, for the very first time since the problem started, she ran faultlessly! Perhaps it's because I drove very smoothly and quite slowly without any hard acceleration? I'll take her out again later and have another try.

 

No, I don't have a red indicator on top of the steering column but I've just noticed an unidentified rocker switch on the RHS of the column and just seen the traction control switch for the first time (it's notionally my wife's vehicle, I've only really started driving it since the problem started....).

 

I tried the 3 times ignition on "key dance" and got P1130 fault code in the odometer window which seems to confirm that the problem is fuel pressure - possible faults under that code in Chrysler documentation are:

 

P1130-FUEL RAIL PRESSURE MALFUNCTION LEAKAGE DETECTED.

P1130-FUEL RAIL PRESSURE MALFUNCTION PRESSURE TOO HIGH-SHUT OFF

P1130-FUEL RAIL PRESSURE MALFUNCTION PRESSURE TOO LOW 

P1130-FUEL RAIL PRESSURE MALFUNCTION SOLENOID OPEN 

 

Also, it took 6 long seperate turnovers to cold start this morning but once warmed up it starts first turn of the key - faulty glow plugs maybe a red herring here? 

 

You are clearly much more knowledgeable, (my car mechanics experience goes back to when "God was a boy" and I worked in a garage on Saturdays and school hols then repaired my first car for reasons of poverty rather than love of car repairs!) but I find it odd that the cut out always occurs under load, never when the car is idling even when revved - this seems to rule out the Fuel Pump - SOLENOID (mentioned above in the fault codes).

 

Your fuel lines do look very pristine, maybe a previous owner was having this problem and they got replaces as part of the hunt for the fault?

 

Crank Position Sensor sounds a possibility - maybe that would explain why mine always restarts easily after the cutout? Maybe I'm grasping at straws......

 

I replaced the Mass Air Filter after getting a P100 code some months back and it seemed to solve that particular problem (running rough, loss of power) so maybe it's all inter-related?

 

Anyway, my new filter and filter housing for the HP Pump will be here in a few days ditto your crank sensor so we'll see where that gets us! LOL

 

Thanks for your help once again,

 

Best,

S

[andyb2000]

Thanks again for the feedback, so far I've not found anyone who has posted that they got to the bottom of this fault, so that means one of two things, either they find it and disappear or the second option, their GV is in a scrapyard somewhere.

 

Anyway, I've replaced the crankshaft position sensor (Rear of engine block passenger side, more awkward to get at than anything due to subframe), but no luck, out on a test drive and exactly the same.

Annoyingly, due to the rev limiter I can't rev it on the driveway up to the RPM that it cuts out at, is yours auto too Steven and if you're in park can you rev it higher than 2.5k? I'm curious as it'd love to know if it'll cut out without load (i.e. just on the driveway) but can't due to the rev limiter.

 

I've also re-checked key-dance codes:

 

P1130 - Fuel Rail Pressure Malfunction Pressure Too High-Shut Off

Fuel Rail Pressure Malfunction Pressure Too Low

Fuel Rail Pressure Malfunction Solenoid Open

Fuel Rail Pressure Malfunction Leakage Detected

 

P1131 - Fuel Pressure Solenoid Open Circuit

Fuel Pressure Solenoid Short Circuit

Fuel Pressure Solenoid Plausibility in After-run

 

These are interesting codes, which have got me looking at the Fuel Pressure Solenoid.

When you say it eliminates the solenoid, why do you think that please? I'm going to wire a test LED onto the solenoid and determine if it's the ECU shutting the solenoid off or not as that may be a key pointer to why it's being shutdown.

 

I also drove it a while today, which I can providing I keep revs below 2.6k (ish) so driving around without being heavy footed and the car will happily run at 40Mph without cutting out, so this may also match what you found trying it out. As soon as you boot it and revs go high for a second or so then it'll immediately stall out. After a stall it takes a few cranks before it'll fire and start up again, perhaps indicating starvation of fuel and having to re-prime the system? (Guessing here!)

 

Any other suggestions before I start randomly replacing sensors!

The HP pump replacement will be an interesting one, it's not a fun job as you have to use the timing pins to lock it all, etc, so one I'm leaving till late on.

 

Good luck and I'll keep posting back regardless, just on what I try next and what I can find. Really appreciate you taking the time too, we'll get it figured between us!

[andyb2000]

Replying to myself as I'm good at that, helps the grey matter do a bit of brainstorming!

 

I've connected an LED to the solenoid supply connector, so when the fuel solenoid was energised by the ECU it was lit up. The solenoid energises in second key position (run position) and stays on until key is turned off. I went for a test run and the LED didn't go off at all, so that leads me to conclude the ECU is NOT shutting the solenoid off whilst running, so it's not 'killing' the engine, which goes back to fuel starvation.

 

I found another interesting thing, I had to push the car harder to get it to stall this time, really had to floor it to make it die, so not sure if this indicates it's getting better? Anyway, when it did die, I let it coast to the side of the road and shifted the auto shifter to N. I then turned the key straight back to starter motor position (It was in run position obviously) and starter motor turned, turned turned and it just wouldn't fire, even with wiggling accelerator. Tried a few times and it just wouldn't fire.

 

I turned key off, and back on (Heard lift pump run) and it immediately fired. That makes me go back to, fuel starvation, when the engine is needing a lot of fuel, it's almost sucking it's fuel line dry and dying due to lack of fuel. Reasonable assumption?

This makes me less think of pressure sensors, electrical sensors, and back to mechanics, fuel starvation to the HP fuel pump somehow.

[mikebh8]

...I thought is fuel starvation on mine (different scenario but just an idea) at the end was a relay.

What about autoshutdown relay not faulty but bad connection that leads to wrong information sent to the ecu...

Just a thought as at this point not sure what to suggest.

[bignev]

Hey Andy, just an outside guess, along your lines of thinking, but is it possible to check for a partially blocked fuel feed line?

 

Or is it possible for the other fuel pump to be under delivering? I don't know how they work on these engines.

 

On our 1.8 diesel Galaxy, after a fuel filter change, located in the engine bay, there isn't a hope in hell of the fuel pump getting it to run again. Yes I fill the canister and bleed the air from the top. It has to be pulled through with a vac pump attached to the fuel line on the pump at the front of the engine, as it has no electric lift pump or hand primer pump.

[Expoman]

Andy,

 

I've been unable to connect to the site for a couple of days hence delay in responding.

 

That's very interesting news.

 

I'll take mine out this afternoon and try to duplicate all that you have done and we'll see what happens. I didn't make it clear that I'm replacing the filter and filter assy rather than the pump itself, hopefully we can avoid that expense!

 

Mine is auto but I'll try revving in Park and see what I get.

 

My thoughts on the solenoid were simply that I couldn't see why the solenoid would only malfunction under load, maybe rubbish but anyway you seem to have eliminated that particular code with your clever test.

 

Mine is the same after stalling. I have to completely switch off before getting it to start, if I don't, she just turns and turns without a hint of firing (hence my initial thoughts about immobiliser cut off, which I've now moved away from).

 

Yes, I think your assumption is reasonable, when I think about it, mine has always cut out under strong acceleration and you're right, the main condition in that state is increased fuel demand. Possibly with some air in the fuel lines, the engine manages with the reduced flow at lower revs but the moment the revs need to increase, it can't hold on?

 

I'm going to ask around here (I'm in the south of France - yes, alright for some!) and see if I can find a diesel specialist, I suspect that could be the way to go for me as I lack your hands on skills!

 

Mike - thanks for that, I'll try and get it checked out, just don't understand why it would occur just under acceleration over 2,500 rpm?

 

Overall, I think we are on the right lines, I think it is fuel starvation and I haven't always had the problem with the car so it is a condition that has developed, it's not inherently faulty - anyway, that thought keeps me going! I'll report back later!

 

All best,

S

[andyb2000]

Thanks Mike/Nev,

I thought about auto-shutdown, but it's a more precise point of cutting out than a potential random electrical drop, plus the LED/signal test I've now done with the fuel solenoid I believe eliminates anything about the ECU shutting the engine down as it doesn't try to kill the fuel supply/solenoid (Which would be an obvious first shutdown kill-switch to pull).

 

One thing, on the .com forum somebody mentioned the solenoid is more a valve than on/off, so a binary LED test may not be 100% accurate, although it did stay constantly on, so it was good enough for my test.

 

Nev, not sure on the fuel line block, not sure how to check that easily either, other than somehow cutting a bit of line and putting clear pipe to 'watch' for bubbles or collapse of the pipe. High pressure fuel pump under-delivering is a real possibility. The HP pump is directly driven from the timing belt, unsure if it's 'timed' as such on these engines and if that has an impact, but my understanding is the HP pump gives out a constant 'high' pressure fed to the line, the injectors take their pressure/required squirt and anything over is returned via the over-pressure/return lines, so in theory if the pump isn't giving out enough pressure it would affect all engine speeds, not just higher.

True enough on not being able to re-pressure the system, Steve and my own experiences show the low-pressure/electric lift pump seems to HAVE to run to re-prime the system which fits with your experience on the Galaxy.

 

I'm wondering if a punt of a second hand injector and then doing injector swapping might highlight one or more faulty ones causing it. Long shot, but again so far I've spent very little cost on this so a £50 ebay injector might be worth a go, providing they're not wedged in too tightly.

 

Steve, mine also developed this, have had it almost 3yrs now and other than occasional tough starting in the cold (even after glo plugs changed) it's never failed in this way, so yes I'd agree it's developed and got worse over time, so wear and tear probably.

Also Steve, good luck on the fuel filter replacement, it seems a lot of people after doing that resolve this problem, so I think there are a few different scenarios that cause this issue, so there may not be one right answer unfortunately. I'm tempted to change the filter on mine, it looked fine to me and was replaced last year but for the sake of another 20 mins and £30 it might be worth doing just incase something silly like a load of gunk in there has jammed it that I can't see and is choking it (Kinda contrary to my thoughts earlier on the HP pump, but at the moment I'm trying just about anything in reason!)

 

As always will keep posting back :-) Good luck Steve, thanks for posting back it's appreciated having another set of eyes on the problem. Pity you're all the way in sunny France otherwise would happily swap notes over a cuppa!

[Expoman]

Andy,

 

So here's the latest.

 

Warmed her up then drove her down the second part of my drive where there is a turning area then back up what is a very steep incline. About 2000 rpm no probs then slowed her right down to idle speeds as I rolled to the gate and she cut out! (Engine had been warmed up, so no problem there).

 

I turned off the ignition and she restarted first time. I took her out for a drive, first letting her roll downhill on 1000 to 1500 rpm then once on the flat, I gave her a boot full several times, 3000 rpm and a bit over (wheel blocks part of the rev counter so couldn't see exactly what she topped out at) with absolutely no problems. Drove her home up the steep hill ; l gave her a boot full several times, 2500 to 3000 rpm, and she never missed a beat!

 

It's interesting that my only cut out was after coming up a very steep incline slowly - fuel starvation?

 

Really frustrating, as during the test drive I used a variety of driving styles yet couldn't induce the fault, in fact the engine pulled beautifully and ran evenly.

 

My local guy thought injectors but all have been replaced with recon items and the problem persists.

 

On the plus side, I have found a diesel specialist locally that I will be contacting to make an appointment once my fuel filter and housing has arrived (not just the filter as I read online in a couple of places that the housing itself can also be the problem, fine cracks allowing air into the system).

 

Is the fact that it is necessary to turn off the ignition completely to restart after significant? As you say, the likelihood is the lift pump needs to reprime the system so does this indicate air in the fuel system?

 

Yes, it's a long way for a cuppa but maybe we can have a glass of Champagne on the day we finally solve the problem!

 

Likewise, I'll keep posting.

[mrtibbs]

Just a thought guys. I am thinking that because you both have to go through the start "sequence" rather than just tuning the key back to "run" it would suggest to me that there is air in the system and it needs to purge it out by running the LP pump. The LP pump sounds as though it is working so I would definitely look at replacing the filter housing as I have also heard that these can suffer with minute cracks thereby letting in air.

Hoping that you both get to the bottom of this fault.

 

Keith

[Expoman]

Keith, I will have that looked at by the diesel specialists I have found.

 

I was wondering what the significance of having to turn off the ignition fully and restart using the full sequence might be - your conclusion is that by restarting the sequence, the LP activates and removes the air so the fuel gets through and the engine starts whereas just by turning the engine over without returning the ignition to zero, it doesn't?

 

Very many thanks,

 

Best,

S