Voyager 2.8 C.s.i. 56Plate (Jan 07) Rear Disc Problems

[Johnmac]

Help!!!  I bought this cheap and was expecting to do a lot of work to get it through the M.O.T but the one that has me stumped is fixing the hand brake, The whole rear brake area looks as if it has never been looked at - very rusty and the disc is probably illegal and will be renewed - but the pads look o.k. and the cable looks new. My problem is that, having stripped it down, with caliper removed, I can't get the disc off even using brute force and a puller. I suspect that the shoes have been run down to the metal and have made a groove inside the drum. The connecting arm to the cable is rock solid and I have found no adjuster in  the cable apart from the connector where it splits off to near and off side wheels. Has anyone had this problem and can they suggest anything I might be missing. I've seen reference to a ratchet mechanism covered by a rubber plug on the back but can't find this so  is there any oyher method of backing off the shoes.

[QinteQ]

Handbricks are a pig :

 

- the handbrake ratchet and travel can be adjusted via a 'clockspring' in the handbrake assembly

- there is no adjustment other than the springs and clutch and cable under the handbrick

- the clock spring automatically adjusts the park brake [removes the slack only from the cables] its designed to err on the side of never making the shoes bind on the inside wall of the in-hat drum

- the  actuators are usually seized and need heat / easing oil / swearing and then copperslip, a once in a life of the car £25 renewal of small parts saves time and a lot of grief

- the drum in hat handbrick shoe adjuster is usually a knurled nut [fig.13] you can get at through a slot in the rear of the backing plate, are you saying your 07 EuroWagon does not have them ?

- the co-effiecieny of the liners, drilling and grooving and all manner of oddball alternatives have been considered by myself - they are just useless even on a non-driven wheel

- my  conclusion is the whole parking brake arrangement is not fit for purpose for a vehicle of this weight .. .. even when they work the way they should.

 

Best of luck !

 

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[Johnmac]

Thanks for your advice. I'm still having problems locating the access to the adjuster. as I cant move the lever and I understand that it is necessary to move the lever to acess the adjuster I'm stumped for the moment. I'm waiting for my son to return m axle stands before I venture underneath. Thanks again. I'll let you know how I get on

[Gordon]

Hi I know this i s late in the day but if you work out the distance between 2 of the studs and the distance back  so that if you drill a hole in the drum you can see the adjuster. Take the advice strip the brakes down completely clean the rust off the back plate and wash and clean the handbrake bits check that the cables have not rusted or the PVC sheath has not been compromised.Get a new rear brake  mounting kit and sealey make a couple of fantastic tools at a reasonable price on ebay. grease the drum brakes on their friction points as in the manual and check everything moves freely centralise the drum brakes

and put the drum on and rotate until you see the adjuster through the 10mm hole. If you make sure that the handbrakes bite just a little and back off so they run free both sidet a slight adjustment this works. I was given this method by an old Chrysler engineer. When you have finished put a piece of metal tape over the holes in the drum. I really need to takes photos and post this method but i am disabled and it takes time  to do jobs

Edited May 18, 2019 by Gordon

[legonsuk]

Had the same problem do what gordon said i got the small parts kit bag of bits off ebay ripped all the old out and in with the new springs  brake shoe pins and new adjuster and a way we go . but as for the clock spring  adjuster on the handbrake ratchet my grand didnt have a adjuster on the handbrake ratchet .