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Tailgate Electric Motor Does Not Work: "usual" Causes Of Error?


TobiasClaren
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Hello.

 

I removed the rear left inner lining to get the engine and mechanics of the tailgate motorization.
When the door is open and I press the remote control, only the turn signal flashes. No motor noise, no beeps etc.
If the door is closed, it flashes and beeps after press remote control. When you sit inside, you can see how the gears interlock.
After that, the gears go apart again.
 
What should I examine, or what is usually broken?
 
 
Thanks,
Tobias Claren
Edited by TobiasClaren
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My "middle" GV had a similar problem, never got to the bottom of it - but it was like that when we bought it.

 

I tried a new tailgate ecu, and a motor, and it worked for a day or so.

 

Can you open it by hand when it's unlocked - as in does the cinch motor release on the handle button, ours would do that.

 

They have resistance sensors when opening, and pinch sensors when closing.

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Hi guys, my tailgate opens with the fob and the button in the cabin but not when you press the button manually at the rear. Is this a simple fix or not do you guys think? I'm no mechanic but my thoughts are to just by the button mechanism on the door from a scrappy to try a new one (hopefully one that worked). But thought I'd run it past you guys first.

 

Cheers guys.

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It quite possibly could be, if you have an electrical multi meter try the button first, it's bloody awkward so it was a 2 man job for me, holding the door open / pressing the button / taking a reading to see if it made or broke the electrical signal.

Obviously you need to remove the interior trim first and before that the closing handle.

 

On our third GV (not our middle one mentioned above!) I changed the button as it was duff, for a tested good one, and it still didn't work. So after trying the ecu and a few other bits, it still doesn't.

I've got used to it mostly.

Like yours - motors open on the remote or button inside, won't open on the handle.

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Hi, finally a topic about this annoying problem that seems to be the Chrysler's logo.

If I remove the battery on mine, it will work for a day or two, after that would work only from the handle but it will close from remote or driver's button. However, from the remote will click open and the engine seems to try opening( like something is blocking its path) but would stay half way open(on the first click closed) until the door handle is pressed and it pools the door back closed.

 I had similar problems on my previous one, it turned out to be one of the gas struts.

I didn't get to this issue yet but is on my list.

If anyone could share their symptoms and the repairing procedures, I'm sure would be very useful.

If I may add, the left passenger door was not working properly, I replaced the wiring( common fault on these), but still it looks like it needs "resetting",it works from the remote, it works once ( after connecting the battery) from the driver's button, and whenever it wants from the pillar button.

...Not talking about the left hand side mirror....it never worked properly( not since I own it anyway), after reconnecting the battery it goes on and on until at some point stops but not in the right place, I hold it with my hand until it finishes it cycle but it won't operate as the other one.

 

Thanks for sharing

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Hello.

 

I removed the rear left inner lining to get the engine and mechanics of the tailgate motorization.
When the door is open and I press the remote control, only the turn signal flashes. No motor noise, no beeps etc.
If the door is closed, it flashes and beeps after press remote control. When you sit inside, you can see how the gears interlock.
After that, the gears go apart again.
 
What should I examine, or what is usually broken?
 
 
Thanks,

Tobias Claren

 

Hi, when the remote is operated and sound and flashes come one, it means one of the doors is still open. I believe you have an open circuit that fools the ecu to believe the door is still open.

I don't know how good you are with testing but:

Try operate the remote with the motor removed and testing the power coming to the motor feed, if the power comes to it it means the motor is faulty, if not you have to check every connection backwards from the motor to the switch, continuity and power where is the case.

 

Hope it helps.

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Hiya @@mikebh8

 

My door mirrors are out in sympathy with yours, left used to work then stopped, right one recently out too, same thing as yours when battery disconnected for a bit.

 

The sliding door could still be a dodgy wire, I repaired mine on No. 3 a couple of times before surrendering and parting with the money for a new wiring harness / track. No.2 was like yours, ok some days after reset.

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