This applies to the 2.8 CRd - specifically the 2006/7 vrsion where the EGR valve sits at the front of the engine on the right hand side (viewed from the front), just behind the fan relays.
Ignore the workshop manual completely - if you have one, this refers either to the 2.5l or an earlier version of the engine where the EGR was at the rear of the engine.
Access is a pig, especally if you have large or even noral sized hands. Be prepared for cuts and abrasions galore.
Having said all that it's not as bad as it first appears.
Equip yourself with plenty of disposable gloves, Swafega, rags etc.
1. Remove battery - a) for safety b) for somewhere to stick the coolant pressure container (Chrysler's description not mine)
2. Unclip this container and pull upwards to disconnect from its rear slide. after disconnecting the front pipe.
Disconnect the two vacuum pipes connecting the ERG valve to the solenoids.
You should be able to access the jubilee clip securing the EGR's air inlet pipe, slacken off and push the pipe downwards.
There is a circular clip holding the EGR valve to the sump feed pipe (where all the sh*t comes from), then insert a #5 allen key and unscrew fully. CAREFULLY bend the clip open until it can be dropped down the pipe.
Remove the 4 8mm bolts securing the valve to the inlet manifold pipe.
At this stage I would suggest you do not do this over a grass driveway as I did because finding the dropped bolts is a nightmare.
Lift the EGR valve out. (Be patient, curse freely - it will come out.
If you are removing, cleaning and refitting have fun. I still have remnants of the gunge in my fingernails despite gloves, swarfega and petrol.
[Note the EGR cleaning spray I ordered hadn't turned up so I used some industrial cleaner (modern type [non smelly] Gunk - for those of you that remember solvent based degreasers)
After cleaning or unwrapping your replacement valve I would suggest holding the valve in place by loosely fitting 2 of the 8mm bolts to secure the valve against the inlet pipe before refitting the pipe clamp underneath the valve. - PATIENCE patience patience.
Then fit the other two bolts and tighten all four.
Refit the vacuum pipes, refit the air inlet pipe and tighten jubilee clip, refit coolant tank, top up any lost coolant, refit battery. Should be done!
Including two cups of coffee time taken ~ 4 hours (Any fit member of the cult should be able to cut this time by at least 25%
Note: A year or so ago it was suggested to me to buy on eof the EGR sprays that clean the valve whilst you run the engine on tickover, so I followed the instructions and sprayed the magic folmulae having disconnected the inlet pipe from the air filter.
1. The air inlet to the EGR comes from a secondary inlet via the grill.
2. The ECM deactivated the EGR during tickover.
So, I think this was a waste of time, waste of money ??
Question
RichardM
This applies to the 2.8 CRd - specifically the 2006/7 vrsion where the EGR valve sits at the front of the engine on the right hand side (viewed from the front), just behind the fan relays.
Ignore the workshop manual completely - if you have one, this refers either to the 2.5l or an earlier version of the engine where the EGR was at the rear of the engine.
Access is a pig, especally if you have large or even noral sized hands. Be prepared for cuts and abrasions galore.
Having said all that it's not as bad as it first appears.
Equip yourself with plenty of disposable gloves, Swafega, rags etc.
1. Remove battery - a) for safety b) for somewhere to stick the coolant pressure container (Chrysler's description not mine)
2. Unclip this container and pull upwards to disconnect from its rear slide. after disconnecting the front pipe.
Disconnect the two vacuum pipes connecting the ERG valve to the solenoids.
You should be able to access the jubilee clip securing the EGR's air inlet pipe, slacken off and push the pipe downwards.
There is a circular clip holding the EGR valve to the sump feed pipe (where all the sh*t comes from), then insert a #5 allen key and unscrew fully. CAREFULLY bend the clip open until it can be dropped down the pipe.
Remove the 4 8mm bolts securing the valve to the inlet manifold pipe.
At this stage I would suggest you do not do this over a grass driveway as I did because finding the dropped bolts is a nightmare.
Lift the EGR valve out. (Be patient, curse freely - it will come out.
If you are removing, cleaning and refitting have fun. I still have remnants of the gunge in my fingernails despite gloves, swarfega and petrol.
[Note the EGR cleaning spray I ordered hadn't turned up so I used some industrial cleaner (modern type [non smelly] Gunk - for those of you that remember solvent based degreasers)
After cleaning or unwrapping your replacement valve I would suggest holding the valve in place by loosely fitting 2 of the 8mm bolts to secure the valve against the inlet pipe before refitting the pipe clamp underneath the valve. - PATIENCE patience patience.
Then fit the other two bolts and tighten all four.
Refit the vacuum pipes, refit the air inlet pipe and tighten jubilee clip, refit coolant tank, top up any lost coolant, refit battery. Should be done!
Including two cups of coffee time taken ~ 4 hours (Any fit member of the cult should be able to cut this time by at least 25%
Note: A year or so ago it was suggested to me to buy on eof the EGR sprays that clean the valve whilst you run the engine on tickover, so I followed the instructions and sprayed the magic folmulae having disconnected the inlet pipe from the air filter.
1. The air inlet to the EGR comes from a secondary inlet via the grill.
2. The ECM deactivated the EGR during tickover.
So, I think this was a waste of time, waste of money ??
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