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Hi All Having just found this forum and it seems I have experienced most of the problems out there I am glad to have found you all. Since Chrysler have pulled the plug on support in the UK lets just see if we can do it ourselves. I have been experiencing parasitic power drain for about a year now. It was intermittent but is increasingly in frequency leaving in stranded when out and about. I have measured the current draw on the batter to be 1.45 Amps steady after the 5 mins following turning off the Chrysler using a current clamp. This is significantly above the 0.0125 A that other posts have indicated it should be pulling on whilst idle. I have tested the fuse voltage drop (Using this method) across the accessible fuses and found the following. M27 ~115mV on a 10A fuse (Ignition switch) M20 ~50mV on a 15A fuse (Con int light, sw bank) M4 ~70mV on a 10A fuse (trailer tow) M36 ~92mV on a 20A fuse (Power out battery) M13 ~156mV on a 20A fuse (lock unlock) M12 ~40mV on a 30A fuse (AMP radio) M38 ~59mV on a 25A fuse (lock unlock motors) I could not test the Jcase fuses by this method due to them being sealed. Basically the whole system seems to be on. I Then went on to remove all (including the JCase) fuses 1 at a time and at no point did the drain drop. I did the same with the relays again no drop in current drain. Does anyone know how I can move this forward so that I dont have to disconnect the battery every night. Many thanks in advance. Lex

Hello all, I am a newbie here, bought 2012 Delta SE nav multi jet semi auto on Friday and have been scrolling though to gather some info. I'm quite please I have managed to get a rare car I almost got a fiesta or clio then saw this last min. I've got new wiper blades coming, thanks to a post on here for the recommendation. I'm looking to fit reversing camera and update the stereo. Has anyone got a link to a possible camera that isn't too hard to fit? I'm not completely useless around cars but I do have basic knowledge and I am keen to figure it out on the go. I have a feeling I need to replace the battery, it starts first turn but it does take a bit longer than I would like, just long enough to make the heart rate rise. Would this be all I need to check? It's had a service 12 months ago at just under 43,000 miles it's now done 56,000. Also key doesn't stay in the fob after being flipped out. It flips out fine just doesn't click away. Is this a basic fix or something I need to live with? Thank you for any help.

Hi all, hope someone can help. I’ve had the car for nearly 10 years now (it’s a 2008 GV). I had an issue for a while which consisted of the car only going into first gear when put in drive and staying in first, I’d realise after driving for a while, stop, put into neutral, engine off, start again and it would normally be ok. Also, whilst this was happening if I tried to operate the manual gear change it wouldn’t show any gear at all on the display and stay in first. The engine warning light was on for about a year because of this. Eventually I reset the TIPM and the engine warning light went off and this issue seemed to stop. The reason I reset the TIPM was in the hope that it would enable me to unlock my drivers door which now refuses to open. The button pops up with the fob and with the inside handle but the second stage of the lock does not open and I can’t get in the driver’s door. This morning I went out, opened the sliding doors fine, stowed the seats, then tried to start the car and everything is completely dead, lights, doors everything (doors worked fine seconds before) the little clock on the dash is still going. I had a new battery 4 years ago. Any ideas on how to get the driver’s door open and what this other issue could be, can a battery fail like that? I’m used to seeing a few symptoms first and having paid over 300 quid for this one 4 years ago, would expect it to last a little longer than this. The door issue is separate but still needs sorting. I’m currently resetting the TIPM again and charging the battery but I doubt this will sort the door. Any thoughts?

Hey guys, Quick question: After spending the last couple days having to jump start my 2012 Chrysler Ypsilon 0.9L Twinair, I've finally come to conclusion that I should just replace the battery. I've decided that I'm just gonna do it myself, I know that I need a Stop-Start EFB 12V 63Ah 450A (EN1-SAE) battery (Or near enough) although I'm worried about the onboard computer buggering up. And I've read in some places that I may need to configure the battery with a diagnostic tool (or the like). Can anyone advice whether it's easy enough to do this myself?