Mikey

Hi, It will almost definitely be the battery. The stop start system requires a good voltage which an ageing battery struggles to maintain. When this happens the stop start system will be disabled. If you have a multi meter you could check the voltage of the battery after it has been left overnight and before you start the vehicle. If the voltage is 12.4 or less it could well be the battery. I had the same issue on my Ypsilon and a new battery resolved it.

Hi wanad, We had two of these Ypsilons, both had the same issue. It is a very easy and cheap fix, see my post here. http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/1623-dualogic-gearbox-issues/ Let me know if you need any further help. Mike.

There are a whole load of reasons why start stop is disabled, including normal parameters in the car such as opening the car door, cabin temperature compared to required temp (aircon) and so on. There is no reset option with the diagnostics I have, I found simply disconnecting the 2 pin plug on the sensor and then disconnecting the quick release negative connection long enough for the clock to lose time worked. You then reconnect the battery followed by the sensor. If you choose to replace the sensor there is a number on it, they are available on ebay, just be sure to match the number. If you can get an updated version number that would be good as I think the early sensors had issues. They are expensive though. Start by changing the battery, making sure the clock resets and go from there.

Hi, You don't need to set anything with the diagnostic tool and onboard computer will be fine, I got a replacement battery from Halfords - it was a EFB013. If you have been jump starting the car without disconnecting the plug from the sensor on the negative terminal, start stop will probably not work as you may of toasted the sensor. It is not because it needs setting up with diagnostics. I can say this as I have 2 Ypsilons and after replacing the battery I did not have start stop after jumping the car (it worked before). I swapped the sensor from the other car and it works perfectly now.

The brake light switch is at the top of the brake pedal, up under the dash. Agree it is unlikely to be bulbs, a possibility of wiring although I agree the switch would be a prime candidate.

Which light are you referring to?

Hi, Welcome to the very small club! They are great cars and I am sure we can get you sorted out. Both myself and the wife have a 2012 twinair auto Limited and despite having a few issues, I managed to figure them all out and get them sorted. The start stop can lock out if there is an underlying problem. I don't know what your mechanical experience is, but all you need to do to get it going again is disconnect the quick release negative battery cable, then disconnect the battery sensor on the same battery terminal. When you reconnect, connect the sensor first, then the negative battery cable. You need to leave it long enough for the clock to lose the time, if it hasn't when you reconnect, the start stop will not of reset and you need to leave it longer. 5 Minutes is normally enough. Please also be aware that the start stop is likely to be disabled again at some point, until the fault is resolved. As for the loss of power, can you provide more detail. Was it like the engine was switched off and the car was slowing down, or did it just hold back for a bit before finally accelerating? If the latter, does it drive ok when the engine is cold? I had this problem too and resolved it quite cheaply as I know my way around engines. Mike.

Hi vvr1978, Sorry for the late reply. You can view a photo of the dualogic unit here: https://flic.kr/p/Sapqzb You can just see the edge of the black cover in the red circle, the green circle shows the solenoid I removed for cleaning.

Hi Tony, Sounds very odd - especially if it has had an easy life. I am always wary of MOT's as if you take it to someone who also carries out repairs, i.e. a quick fit centre, they often try their luck to get work. When I MOTd my Ypsilon last August they tried to tell me my pads were down to 3mm and needed changing. I changed just last weekend and there was at least 4mm left on them - I have covered 15,000 miles since the MOT too. We have two Ypsilons, one at 40k miles and the other at close to 30k. Neither have this issue. Jeep dealers will still supply Chrysler parts / service / warranty if required but, if it were me I would check the bushes before getting them replaced. Either go to a garage you trust or even put it through another MOT somewhere else, preferably somewhere that does not do repairs. Please come back and let us know if they really are worn. Mike.

I recently purchased two 2012 Ypsilon twinair with dualogic, one each for wifey and me. One had gearbox issues just two weeks after purchase, this was repaired under the used car warranty - apparently requiring the replacement of the gearbox actuator. After a year of ownership, the second car started having the same problems. As it is out of warranty and the cost of the repair on the other car was about £1500 I thought I would see if I could repair it. Success (details below), I know there are not many dualogic Ypsilons in the UK, but if this post helps one other owner it will of been worth it. :-) Symptoms: Gears unavailable message when stationary and stuck in neutral, randomly getting stuck in gear under braking with no throttle and then gears unavailable message and stuck in neutral when stopped. This mostly happened from a cold start and when the car had been running for less than 30 minutes, dependent on outside temperature. DTCs: P060A, P2917, P2916, P1742 in various combinations. Cause: There is a small aluminium piston in a bore behind the black cover at the back of the actuator (near the bulkhead). It needs to be able to move backwards and forwards freely as this motion is the same as moving the gearstick in a manual car from side to side to align to 1st or 2nd, 3rd or 4th, 5th or reverse. If there is dirt in the bore, movement is not free resulting in incorrect location of the piston and hence the failure. Solution: I flushed it out with a can of brake cleaner and then regreased the pins before closing it up again. I also removed the solenoid from the side of the bore and cleaned that, if you do this be careful not to lose the little spring from inside. Considerations: My car is almost 5 years old and started having this problem a couple of months ago. My wife has the same car and had the same issue just after she purchased it at just over 3 years old and 13,000 miles. The actuator on my wife's car was replaced under warranty, but it probably just needed cleaning. I don't believe a drop of oil in the bore would cause an issue, but there was a lot of aluminium sludge caused by wear from the back and forth movement. It is a simple job to do and so for me, I will just check / clean / regrease as required once a year. Hope this helps others with dualogic issues. :-)

Just adding to this thread. We have just purchased two 12 plate Ypsilons, one has an issue with the headlights being stuck switched on. The dealer has replaced the switch but this did not fix it. Issue ongoing..

Sorted, a new antenna and coax resolved it.

Hi, Its great to find a Ypsilon forum considering how few seem to be on the road. :-) I recently purchased a 2012 twin air semi auto limited for my wife, she loves it. The only problem we are having with it is the radio reception is very weak. I saw it listed in the known problems thread and wondered if anyone here had experienced the same issue and fixed it? If so what was the issue? Thanks.