ryden

Thanks again for the info Mike, but unfortunately I'm after a Workshop Manual for my model. Many Thanks

Hi Thanks for the links etc. Unfortunately It doesn't have the information I needed. My car is a 2006 Stow and Go 2.8L and a lot has changed due to the slightly different engine and the fact that that seats ( being stored in the floor) have moved around a lot of components. Many Thanks

Hi All, Have the need for a GV 2006 2.8L Workshop Manual. I noticed the link to oskin.ru no longer has any documents within it - can anyone help me out or point me in the right direction? Many Thanks!

Possible issues for your code below : P1651-MIL/DIAG LAMP VIA J1850 BUS IN FRAME RESPONSE ERROR P1651-MIL/DIAG LAMP VIA J1850 BUS STATUS ERROR Seems there's a few possible causes - ECM, Instrument Cluster, wiring, communication issue.

The injectors aren't bespoke/programmed to each cars ecu, if that's what you're implying?

Could you provide the Fault codes currently present on your dash? I've attached an image - On the left is the relay I assume you're referring to ( "front chassis crossbeam") - Then on the right is the location for the transmission control relays position ( which i presume you're possibly referring to as the "PCM relay" ?)

Hi Dr, I presume you've tried the common places - Chrysler ( garages) , auto factors and ebay/ amazon? Also I've inserted a table of all interior bulbs, in case it's needed.

All the info you'll need below: - http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/1441-how-much-antifreeze-do-i-need/ https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/hoat-coolant-22894/

That's correct. I managed to purchase a complete turbo and manifold for a price you wouldn't believe ( I still don't to this day!) and use the actuator off of it. I've attached the link to my post regarding the issues I had, but if you want the short story - car ran and started fine, if you tried heavy acceleration the warning light would come on until you slowed back down. After fault finding and discussing with my friend ( a mechanic) turned out to be seized waste gate and actuator starting to fail. http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/1067-hard-acceleration-causing-eml-to-come-on/

Nope and I managed to do all the work in place ( was an absolute bastard, wont lie) Removed the waste gate actuator, then freed off the waste gate and refitted the replacement actuator - success.

No problem, faults like these can either be obvious or quite time consuming to identify. Possibly. I had the P2035 fault code myself. My issues turned out to be a seized waste gate and my waste gate actuator failing ( but my car ran/started fine, unless you tried to floor it) that component is the EGR solenoid. But I couldn't say if that hissing noise was okay - but I've never heard a noise like the one you have ( not saying whether that's right or wrong)

I presume you have just the one fob simon? Also, another silly one - try the fob and if it doesn't work, give it a little tap then see if it works. ( sometimes the batteries don't sit very well in the holder) Below is an extract from Chrysler manual ( sorry for misinforming anyone) "The recommended battery is Duracell DL 2016 or equivalent, TWO cells are required. Battery life is about three years minimum."

After reading through the post thoroughly and assuming you have no other issues with the car ( no lag, limp mode, hunting, excess smoke or rough running etc.) Plus you cant find any leaks, then its either air getting in or possible blockages ( the rubber hoses with the crimped metal ends aren't the best and injectors can get blocked easily. Also the connector you found unplugged is a bit suspicious) Here's the list Chrysler provide, for hard start checking.

Quick quesiton frog - has your other issues gotten any better ( does it idle fine now?)

Chrysler stipulate using only one battery instead of two ( ill dig it up from the manual when i get home) but I couldn't really comment on why. Not to long back I had a few issues regarding the fob locking/ unlocking and it working at different distances. Turned out to be the battery - well that's all i changed and it fixed my problems. Haha, yeah I've heard about that trick. Apparently there is method to the madness, regarding that trick.

Might sound silly, you tried changing the fobs battery?

Have you only checked it visually? because it still could be faulty. I would imagine a break of that nature ( where the loom is protected) isn't overly common - more likely corroded pins i'd say. Yep, disconnect the battery and then you can remove the ecu - check all pins and give it a light spraying. Mike suggests you redo the test as described by him in his latest post as well. Also, I've added in what lead me to highlight the 4.5v reading you had

Looking at the second reading you have - 4.48v between pin 1 & 3 suggests an open circuit ( bad connection, corroded pin, chafed wire, broken wire) But that's just utilising the Chrysler diagnostic manual. Out of curiosity, have you had the boost pressure sensor out and checked if its gummed up ?

As the consensus states - they gather water and rust the steps & sills. I removed mine about 2 years ago. Had more or less the same ones in the link below. Fitting was for the most part easy ( slight persuasion to get it all in the orientation necessary) But still going strong with no rust or other issues. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CHRYSLER-GRAND-VOYAGER-III-2000-2007-SIDE-STEPS-RUNNING-BOARDS-STAINLESS-STEEL-/282060034307?hash=item41ac169103:g:5NgAAOxykVNRsmDc

I put my hands up to that as well nev!

Hi Legons and welcome. You wont regret getting the Chrysler, such a versatile vehicle! This link might help you http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/428-manual-workshop-manuals/but between everyone on here, you're covered id say! You'll find with your model that the bench only reclines, it doesn't fold in on itself like the older models - a bit annoying to say the least!

Headlamp switch panel doesn't illuminate on my 2.5crd 2003 GV.

Hi Phil, Does using the indicators affect it and does the headlamp switch work correctly otherwise? I presume you've checked obvious things like bulbs/lamps?

Very surprising. But as you say, give the component a clean ( you'll be able to tell straight away if its gummed up) When you try to accelerate hard does the engine warning/management light come on?

Like big nev mentioned - we talk a lot on this forum, so any and all issues no matter how unique they are get mentioned and rectified! Most issues are easy fixes and home mechanic suitable. Just keep doing your homework till the right one comes along. I understand. I've just never gotten round to looking for aftermarket wheels Cant speak for automatics either - always had manual ones ( which also reminds me, just make sure all gears accessible and smooth engaging)