Fragglesix9

I may have the same deal, basically going on uneven ground or hump, you get a bit of a knock, low sounding knock. On the motorway it's fine. Always been there, was hoping the mot may shed light on this one. But it did not. You can't emulate it stationary and rocking the car or bouncing it. Only when in drive and the ground is uneven. On the mot, there was the slightest of play in a pin/bush on the drivers side on one of the suspension parts, it doesn't sound like this is the cause, but possibly. Who knows..

If anyone's interested, I put it through test today and achieved 19% which is a pass. Given previous comments about getting no more than 20% that's good enough for me. Cheers for the input. I assume the breaks need to be engaged so engine needs to be on, to prevent the discs slipping when you calibrate the handbrake. If that makes any sense.

Thanks for the links I'll be sure to read and digest. So I think I found what the tester was failing the car on. If I yank on the hand brake it goes full travel, as opposed to just a nice normal putting brake on. Anyway, I'd disconnected the nearside brake and hand a go on my hand brake which now felt normal. I've since replaced the brake cable. Interestingly there's a half inch bolt that needs to come off, this was rusted badly I thought it was going to be a sod to get off. The hardest thing was actually pulling the cable through and out. Haynes suggest a method of using a spanner to compress the locking tabs. My method, use leatherman to snap locking tabs, then pull through. Installation is easy, I used the handbrake to pull the bit with the locking tabs through the hole. To try and do it manually is next to impossible. Results as follows, hand brake no longer goes full lock. it stops the car rocking when put into Park. When I'm on an incline I need 2 or 3 extra clicks to stop it rolling away. However there's still something not quite right, I may bite the bullet and put a new cable on the offside. The bit that's not quite right is that when I get my extra clicks in, I'm very close to running out of travel. As I get 10 days for a retest, I may put it in as is and go from there.

Hi Kev, I found two hidden screws beneath the two cup holders et voila. As for the hand brake slipping occasionally, that's still a mystery but I have eyes on it. I think the problem is nearside as when the system slips, it's the nearside cable that's lose. I just need to figure out if it's springs or cable.

I own a grand voyager2001 3.3ltr. So it failed on the above and was only hitting 15% of the required 16% braking efficiency. So if I pull on the hand brake, it does look the wheels. I can get 2 more clicks from this, which to me equates to reserve travel. What I've noticed is that occasionally the lever jumps and comes up higher than normal. Still with reserve travel. Question 1 is what do people think this could be. Question 2 is relates to the cover that houses the lever. How does this come off? It seems or feels like it screwed down around the cup holders I am unable to free this to get eyes on the lever mech. Shoes are good, Is there any other adjustment to make

I own a grand voyager2001 3.3ltr. So it failed on the above and was only hitting 15% of the required 16% braking efficiency. So if I pull on the hand brake, it does look the wheels. I can get 2 more clicks from this, which to me equates to reserve travel. What I've noticed is that occasionally the lever jumps and comes up higher than normal. Still with reserve travel. Question 1 is what do people think this could be. Question 2 is relates to the cover that houses the lever. How does this come off? It seems or feels like it screwed down around the cup holders I am unable to free this to get eyes on the lever mech. Shoes are good, Is there any other adjustment to make