Dazandtrace

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Hi ya I use 55w. Iv had 35w with no issue but 55w just give the edge go for 6000k you will not be disappointed.

I had a quote today it needs a lead for the amp. So supply and fit everything they want 160 all in

Hi all. I'm looking at fitting a handsfree kit to my 2006 voyager trying to find info whether it has an amp or not as if it has where would I find it . Thanks

Yes even the belt was showing signs of wear. But the water pump was in great condition. But still had everything changed . Just shows its best to get it done earlier than later

Yes even the belt was showing signs of wear. But the water pump was in great condition. But still had everything changed . Just shows its best to get it done earlier than later

Very much of a relief. The tensioner and pulleys bearings were very worn and that was at 82000 miles.

Late update. Cambelt and waterpump all nice and new £420 all in

Yes pump being done aswell iv had a few quotes and most have been around 420 to 450.

Remember what you put in is what you get back. Buy cheap reduce engine performance and life span.

What's written on your oil bottle, and what does it mean? This post may seem like going back to basics but I'm constantly surprised by the number of people who do not know, or understand, what is written on a bottle of oil, and therefore have no idea what they are buying/using. To be blunt about the subject, if a bottle of oil does not contain the following basic information then DO NOT buy it! Look for something that does! 1) The purpose for which it is intended (i.e. Motor oil, Gear oil etc) 2) The viscosity (i.e. 10w40, 5w30 etc for Motor oils and 80w90, 75w90, etc for Gear oils) 3) The specifications that it meets (should contain both API and ACEA ratings) 4) The OEM Approvals that it carries and the codes (i.e. MB229.3, VW503.00, BMW LL01 etc) Ignore the marketing blurb on the label - in many cases it's meaningless and I'll explain later what statements you should treat with some scepticism. So, what does the above information mean and why is it important? THE BASICS All oils are intended for an application and in general are not interchangeable. You would not for example put an Automatic Transmission Oil or a Gear Oil in your engine! It's important to know what the oil's intended purpose is. VISCOSITY Most oils on the shelves today are "Multigrades", which simply means that the oil falls into 2 viscosity grades (i.e. 10w-40 etc) Multigrades were first developed some 50 years ago to avoid the old routine of using a thinner oil in winter and a thicker oil in summer. In a 10w-40 for example the 10w bit (W = winter, not weight or watt or anything else for that matter) simply means that the oil must have a certain maximum viscosity/flow at low temperature. The lower the "W" number the better the oil's cold temperature/cold start performance. The 40 in a 10w-40 simply means that the oil must fall within certain viscosity limits at 100°C. This is a fixed limit and all oils that end in 40 must achieve these limits. Once again the lower the number, the thinner the oil: a 30 oil is thinner than a 40 oil at 100°C etc. Your handbook will specify whether a 30, 40 or 50 etc is required. SPECIFICATIONS Specifications are important as these indicate the performance of the oil and whether they have met or passed the latest tests, or whether the formulation is effectively obsolete or out of date. There are two specifications that you should look for on any oil bottle and these are API (American Petroleum Institute) and ACEA (Association des Constructeurs Europeens d'Automobiles) all good oils should contain both of these, and an understanding of what they mean is important. API This is the more basic as it is split (for passenger cars) into two catagories. S = Petrol and C = Diesel, most oils carry both petrol (S) and diesel © specifications.

Hi stick to what should be used. 5/30 full synthetic. I use shell helix ultra. Very reasonable price euro car parts for 6ltrs about £30

Darkchild101 the book says 3.7 hrs for the belt but 6.9 hrs for the pump. Thats why im not messing with it my self if it goes wrong then garage is liable

Hi well its that time of the cars life to have it's cambelt and waterpump replacement. Just booked in with my local indy garage for monday. Nice quote £420 all in. Cv 2006 2.8 crd.

Mine are 28 inch and iv got deflectors

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On euro car parts. Its 26 for both front

Id go on what the wiper website says. They should be the right ones

Take a look here www.wiperblades.co.uk

Hi there are 2 fuel filters on the 2.8 crd. One in the tank and one at the front lower part of engine. Its always a good idea to change the filter on the engine. Iv not changed the one in the tank yet but i suppose I will at some point. If you had a filter problem you could have symptoms of cutting out or not starting properly due to fuel starvation. It wont cure the black puff of smoke. Darkchild101 give me a ring if you like on the number i sent you

There is nothing wrong with your car. Its just diesel particles. If you rev a petrol car hard you get a light grey mist out of the exhaust. Dont forget diesel engines are dirty old things. So drive your car stop worrying it. Your car is not broken. So leave it alone. Use better quality fuels. Its cheap enough now.

You may be trying to fix something that is not broken. Unless you have 100% injector problems like not starting. Misfiring 3 lamppost to the gallon. Then leave alone. Use better quality fuels. The only smoke i would be worried about is either white or blue. Not the black stuff. If your that worried about it take it to your local garage and for a small amount of money may even free. Get them to out it on an emissions machine. If it passes then all good

Hi i get a faint bit of black smoke under hard acceleration at about 3000rpm. But if i back off the throttle a touch it dissappears. I certainly know for a fact that my turbo is fine and my injectors are fine as i have a good buddy who can plug my car in for data. Theres alot of talk on here aboit injectors are faulty. Well if you think spending around £1000 for the four injectors will cure the problem. I very much doubt it. Id rather save the money and huff a small amount of black crap out of the exhaust. If injectors were knackered it would huff black crap under any acceleration plus it would use gallons if fuel. Black smoke is a small amount of overfueling. And 90% of cars do it. Even more so the cars that dont have particulate filters fitted.