Jump to content

VoyagerPig69

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    28

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

 Content Type 

Everything posted by VoyagerPig69

  1. VoyagerPig69
    Daz264, I just noticed I put right to left, its actually left to right as you view it from the front!!!!!!! Sorry I just noticed I said right to left, I meant left to right!!!
  2. VoyagerPig69
  3. VoyagerPig69
    Injectors on the 2.5 (and the 2.8) are under the big plastic cover over the engine, once removed, you will see the injectors and fuel rail and flexible return fuel line. I believe they are numbered from right to left, as you look at the engine from the front. Not my engine BTW!!!
  4. VoyagerPig69
    Thank you so much!!! Not a bother with the Dimensions, I was, in a previous life, an engineer and quite often had to knock up items from clients drawings, I can convert quite happily to metric, or use feet and inches. I am guessing that #1 and 2 (centre bottom) is the tubular, puller part? I did wonder about the two sizes of legs but thought there maybe a difference for the 2.5 and 2.8 (having never poked about at the 2.8 motor) Once again, thank you so much. Gives me a project for next week , hopefully, when the new injectors should be arriving!
  5. VoyagerPig69
    Thanks fella', that would be really good.
  6. VoyagerPig69
    Hi, I was looking at the Miller VM 9075A tool, which seems to be the go to tool for pulling the diesel injectors. The price is laughable for a tool I may only use once and ordering it to Spain incurs a shedload of added VAT/IVA postage etc; and even more now, after Brexit. I do have an engineering background and some quite industrial tools around and also a friend with a workshop with some quite thick pieces of steel and aluminium loafing about. Can anyone with one of these tools give me the dimensions, (looking at it there seems to be two sets of legs for it) and My friend and I may give it a go and knock up our own version of it! we will post pictures of our handy work. Thanks in advance.
  7. VoyagerPig69
    Hi all, I am having a b*gger of a time with trying to get my 2003 2.5 CRD through its ITV (Spanish MOT) it has done 194000 miles. when left to idle for a few minutes, then accelerator 'hoofed' there is a big cloud of white smoke, I mean, 'blank out the road' cloud of white smoke!! fast pull aways from traffic lights can be impressive!! everything else is OK. The engine is not losing water, so not a head gasket problem and I also think the fuel consumption is a bit wayward from what it was, so, I'm guessing that it is an injector problem. It has had an oil and filter change, had various injector cleaners through system, the 'stop smoke' additives etc but to no avail. I want to test the injectors, anyone know what the electrical resistance of the injectors are? and can anyone suggest other test methods without buying expensive test kit? I maybe able to borrow a IR temperature tester for the header pipes, to check if it is just one cylinder over hot or cold, in comparison to the others. Also, does anyone know what the cylinder compression test readings should be? I know the compression ratio but I can't seem to find what PSI/BAR measurement is to be expected when testing. Just wondering if bores or rings are worn out. Thanks in advance.
  8. VoyagerPig69
    I didn't have much choice, the O ring was a C shape, not an O !!!
  9. VoyagerPig69
    I decided to anneal it anyway, I have always done that for copper washers on oil lines etc and decided it would be a sensible option. I don't know why I thought 32.4Nm was going to be too high, I guess it was a worry about shearing it in the head because it would be a right pain in the a*se to try and get any thing out from there while the engine was in place. Once I cleaned the threads up on the bolt it went back in a lot easier than it was to get out! Its all back together and seems to be running OK but I will keep an eye on it once I have taken it for a proper run and everything is up to temperature properly.
  10. VoyagerPig69
    Hi, Happy New Year to you all. I have a Voyager 2.5 CRD (2003). It has just failed its ITV (Spanish MOT) for excessive white smoke. I decided to change fuel filter and also, while under the bonnet, noticed that one of the injectors seemed to be getting oily and, on closer inspection, when turning the car off, I could hear it 'gasping', so decided to replace the copper washer and rubber seal on the injector. I have got the injector out, cleaned the bore and re-faced the mating face on the head. I have a couple of questions: 1: When changing the copper washer, does the new one need to be annealed? 2: I read that the mounting bolt for the injector clamp should be tightened to 32.4Nm, does anyone else think that seems a bit high? Anyone ever stripped the thread or sheared the bolt? Thanks in advance for any replies.
  11. VoyagerPig69
    Hi again all, Thought I would start with some basics, so thought I may clean out the EGR valve, the removal process was explained so easily in the manual, ................. Whipped of the wipers, wiper panel and wiper motor assembly etc not a problem. Then I got to the EGR unit itself.......!!!!!!!!!! Has anyone, successfully changed or even removed the EGR valve with the engine in place???????? I can remove the two bolts holding the hose / pipe but I can only see one nut down to turbo, the other is covered by the exhaust heatshield, I'm not sure I can even touch it, let alone get a socket/spanner/hammer to it!!!! The hoses along the back have the most awkwardly placed clips (with the sharp side out) and everything is tucked up behind far too much pipework.
  12. VoyagerPig69
    Hi All, My 2003 Voyager just failed its ITV due to excessive exhaust smoke. Seems to be OK while running around but if I stop at traffic lights or idle anywhere for a minute or more, there is a massive plume of smoke when pulling away, it did rather fill the testing shed after they left it idling for about 5-10 minutes before they 'hoofed' it for the gas test. It also smells 'fuely'/ oily when this happens, smoke tends to be pale grey - blue and occasionally a big belch of black. (I know some diesels kick out black smoke on acceleration but this is embarrassing and blocks out the sun!) A few months ago I had the alternator changed and noticed it after that (I think that maybe just coincidence) but it seems to have got worse. Last week I changed the engine oil, oil filter, air filter and cleaned out MAF sensor and crank case breather on top of head. I'm guessing its either the EGR valve or hoses, a dodgy injector (or more than one) or valve seals. I'm really hoping its not rings or anything too 'internal'. Any guesses from you bunch will be greatly appreciated, always useful to talk it through with people!
  13. VoyagerPig69
    'Spray a lot of lube on it and keep moving?' ............. Thats what I always tell the Missus.......LoL
  14. VoyagerPig69
    Hi all, still got the Voyager, now registered on Spanish plates!!! On top of the engine is, what appears to me, is a crankcase breather. Plastic housing with a filter in that appears real oily and dirty at the moment. Is the filter itself replaceable or is it the whole housing needs doing? any answers and any part numbers would be good, thanks! Here's a pic of one that someone is selling, I was rather hoping for a new one!
  15. VoyagerPig69
    Next job for the week is the clutch and rear crank seals.......I'll keep you all posted!!! maybe even some photos!
  16. VoyagerPig69
    So...........back out under, the slight clearance between shoes and drum seemed to have increased since fitting so turned the bottom adjusters 4-5 turns extra, and bingo!!!! I can now get it to skid on an incline (not that I would do this normally but a bloody good test!!!) thanks for the replies. Must say that of all the vehicle forums I have used, this seems to be the friendliest and technically most useful. Well done all members!
  17. VoyagerPig69
    (2003 2.5 CRD LX) Hi All, I have read a few other bits on here about hand brake adjustment but.......... Fitted new brake pads and handbrake shoes to the backend of the CRD, no problem with pads, without replacing the hub the handbrake shoes were a bit of a beggar but managed to get them in, freed up the rusted actuators, molyslipped the important parts and all seemed ok until it came to setting the cable / lever, did the pulling of cable and setting with vice grips (method from manual) but still full travel and no use on a slight incline. Didn't seem to 'Auto-Adjust' as the manual suggested took them apart again and I set the bottom adjuster in the brakes open a bit, not really much difference. Tried pumping the brakes and thumping them but still not really any better, tried several times pulling the front cable and releasing (handle down) any magical solutions?? TIA
  18. VoyagerPig69
    Hi, has anyone here attempted a clutch and rear crank seal replacement? looks like the seal has gone as seem to have oil dripping from to engine to trans plate. Seen several three seal packs on EBay e.g. (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CHRYSLER-VOYAGER-2-5-CRD-REAR-CRANKSHAFT-OIL-SEAL-KIT-GASKET-CHEROKEE-/320924245926?hash=item4ab8935fa6:m:mgNeumIfoyntl2yJE7PcM4w) manual says you need a tool (VM1050) is it really needed? realise its half shafts out and drop the transaxle, the clutch isn't really the part that is the bother, more interested in the rear crank seal fitting. Any advice? TIA
  19. VoyagerPig69
    further to the 'whats an NGC vehicle' question.............. NGC Starting in 2002, both SBEC and JTEC controllers began to be replaced by the Next Generation Controller (NGC). The NGC combines the PCM and the TCM into a single unit and can be identified by the four 32-pin connectors on vehicles with automatic transmission, or by the three 32-pin connectors and an empty cavity on vehicles with manual transmission.
  20. VoyagerPig69
    Cheers for the info, I might grab a new one (left mine in the UK) and give it a go!
  21. VoyagerPig69
    Would be Interested if anyone has used an OBD on the Chrysler Voyager (2003 2.5) and to what extent the diagnostics go to with it.
  22. VoyagerPig69
    No its the DRB III tool I am referring to, it has a few different variants depending on year but is used for Chrysler non Canbus systems and is peculiar to Chrysler, although they do work through the Chrysler OBD system. All manuals from 2000+ refer to these (DRB1 & DRB3) along with other system tool units (Starscan, starmobile, WiTech). I am unsure if plugging a straight OBD unit will even fit or even fry a Chrysler system, hence my interest in it. Have happily used OBD,EsOBD, Canbus and other items with various different vehicles just not played with the diagnostics on this yet and don't want to 'Brick' it heres an example of the DRB kit on ebay..... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chrysler-Jeep-Doge-Sprinter-DRB-III-DRB3-Diagnostic-/121680743141?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1c54bccae5
  23. VoyagerPig69
    Hi, does anyone know if you need the DRB box in between laptop and Vehicle or is there software out there that can do away with the specific Chrysler kit and run direct from laptop?? I have been looking around and genuine DRB kit is just horrifically expensive when compared to other manufacturers systems. I'm not looking at programming or rechipping just want a diagnostic/ fault finding view.
  24. VoyagerPig69
    I am also getting similar problems. Mine is a 2003 2.5CRD Some days no problems at all, some days slow turn over Some days the starter just clicks like a dead battery (along with needles on dials doing a full turn and then Air Con comes on) Yesterday had to get my friend to give me a jump start because It wouldn't start outside his house but Fired up no problem this morning (without taking battery off car to charge overnight) I measured charge rate while running from tickover to about 2000rpm and got 13.5 across battery terminals (13.6 across alternator stud to Earth) which I would consider low. The Chrysler manual mentions: BATTERY TEMPERATURESENSORDESCRIPTION(NGC Vehicles) The PCM incorporates a BatteryTemperature Sensor (BTS) on its circuit board.OPERATIONThe PCM uses the temperature of the battery areato control the charge system voltage. This temperature,along with data from monitored line voltage, isused by the PCM to vary the battery charging rate.The system voltage is higher at cold temperaturesand is gradually reduced as temperature around thebattery increases. Only bit i'm not sure of, is what is an NGC vehicle? The Keydance is a pain that I have yet to get to work and before you all shout, yes I know it takes practice, have done it with several other makes of vehicles but never managed to get any joy with the Chrysler. Will keep investigating and prodding if I find anything that makes sense I will let you know!
  25. VoyagerPig69
    Found you by trying to log into 'Chrysler Forum' and it wouldn't let me log in!, then realised it was the Chrysler Forum UK, so signed up!!
×
×
  • Create New...