bignev

Cracking job! The ones I got ( and several others for various other cars) came with the info that if they didn't work, turn them round in the holder. They are polarity sensitive! It's 50 50 if they work first time. But you tried that and it didn't work until you connected it directly. Very wierd!! Bet they're nice and bright hey!

Hi Richard! No, there's never been any problems with the LED's for side lights, or the cheap aftermarket HID Xenons I swapped in for the headlight low beams. The light switch on the earlier models 2001 up to 2005 were indeed backlit illuminated, I had 2 of them, but not our later ones. It annoyed me enough in the early months of ownership of this one that I sourced the older version with the fittings and bulbs and figured out which wire it needed to link across to light it up. The previous model also had 2 lights on each of the vanity mirrors in the sun visor, that were dimmable. I changed them too.

Hi there! Well, if you check how active the vehicle assistance section is for Generation 4, it'll give you a clue on the potential expense and mither of ownership if you don't get a good one!

I've done mine a couple of times, replaced with LED's now, and if I remember correctly it's a small twist then pull, the W5W type.

Hi there! You've got to be on a wind up with that dealer name....... Anyhow, I've not yet had to do a stat on any of the 3 - 3.3 models we've had, so don't have personal experience on this. As you say, a quick ebay search results in stats that give a 46mm diameter, not smaller. But if you check on rockauto.com in the USA they are listed at 1.89", which is 48mm, just to add to the confusion. On here they do show a very specific looking metal gasket with a rubber inner. I am quite concerned at the curve on that plate too, did you have to scrape any amount of sealant off when you removed it? Just a thought, in case it was previously damaged and had been made up with RTV stuff. In which case that could be what will have to happen again, unless you get a new one, rockauto again from around £8 with that gasket, plus lots of carriage to France of course! Or - was there a rubber ring around the original thermostat, I've seen that on a few cars, that then does the sealing to both sides of the housings? And it's better to post in the "Vehicle assistance" sections, not all members look in all of the areas! Keep us informed! Cheers Nev

Hi there! Yep those gas struts have a hard job holding that rear lid open on these things hey! From my experience on a Ford Galaxy, and there are a LOT more of them about than Voyagers aren't there, I had 2 sets of them from the interweb that had firstly the wrong end connections, then secondly were the wrong length. So I took one off and went into my local autofactors, "here you go mate" in 2 minutes, cost a tenner more but I actually got them sorted. My suggestion in this instance would be local autofactors, and if it's wrong it's nice and easy to chuck it back over the counter. Lots of stuff I've bought from all over, including Rockauto in the USA, but sometimes it's just not worth the mither! The door window switch is weird though, sounds like a dodgy connection disturbed when you put the cover back on. Mine doesn't have a number plate holder, so sorry no input on that from me!

True, it's not nice working outside at all right now! I got mine (twice) direct from an ebay supplier, just had a quick search on ebay and the fluid is available from various places in the UK. But not the filter at the minute. But it is expensive yes, I think after a few weeks of searching I paid in the mid 50's with a filter. I only did it the following year as well because it had never been done and we were up to about 110,000 miles. I believe that some "individual order" European supplies are being slapped with "admin fees" by a few couriers for automated payments to our tax office for the UK VAT, and it can add a LOT to the price. I got an idler bearing for my Subaru Outback a couple of years ago from outside of the EU and the carrier, DHL, charged around £15 fee (plus vat!) to pay the VAT, the bearing was less than that!! It turned out I could buy the whole tensioner (to take the pulley and bearing off as it's the same pulley as the idler) in the UK for less than I paid for the bearing, delivery, and the DHL fee, very naffed off at that.

And the level is best final checked when it's hot. The cold reading is approximate.

Please only use Mopar ATF+4 genuine stuff. You've had it from new so that's definitely what's in there, DO NOT use anything else. If you can at this point I would do a filter change too, which is in the transmission pan, a little bit of a pain to drop off but worth it. Have a big bowl under it to catch the fluid when the pan pops off, mine came out with a bit of a surprise rate when it let go! Carefully use a liquid gasket not the rubber the filter will come with.

Nope - "Vehicle assistance" then "Chrysler Delta" section

You're very welcome, and good luck!

Hi @@jhr, try posting in the vehicle assistance section for your car, not all members check all the areas! There are a couple of guys who really seem to know their stuff on the Delta, and I think one is in Ireland.

I'm so sorry that it's ended up this way for you pal. And I agree with you on modern electronics, ok when they're new (mostly - but that's a whole other story) but garbage on a lot of stuff after only a few years. Never mind, the manufacturer made their big money and it met all the lovely environmental requirements hey.

Hi there and welcome aboard! If we start with a very simple, not positively a cure but it's simple so let's give it a go thing. As you said sliding doors - both - aren't locking it probably isn't just one of the locking actuators. So - remove the fuse in the fuse box in the engine bay marked IOD, Ignition Off Draw, for a good 30 minutes, and it just might possibly reset the Body Control Module. It may not but it's worth a go. Or pull the negative lead off the battery. And it's better to post questions in the vehicle assistance sections as not all of us bother looking in all the sections!

Good end result mate! Slightly confused as to why there would be a deposit on a new injector, but hey who cares. I can understand if they were refurbished so the company then still have stock. Thankfully as we all thought that is NOT where it's come to!! Well I don't put too much faith in most MOT tests sadly, can go one way or the other. My van had "severely" worn rear pads in July 2018, it's still on them 11,000 miles later. I did check them at that time, and were only worn down by 1mm from new..........

Ah yes changing the stereo unit is also jolly blooming challenging. I think there's been a couple of threads discussing it previously, not at all an easy job. I've seen head units claiming to be compatible but not come across anyone who can verify that for fact!

Yep unfortunately it seems that the vast majority need the remote to turn the dvd screen on, and luminova11 is definitely an exception. Could you tell us which button you use to bring the screen on? Mine needs the headphone button pressing on the remote, every time, even if the dvd is playing and I start the car - screen goes off - press button to get it back on. Mine is the multi dvd / cd type, with sat nav screen. Sadly can't help with any cheap options, but they come up on ebay.

OK good info above! On mine if the revs are increased just a little the rattle goes away. It will be interesting to see if a fresh oil change has any impact on yours.

Ah yes quite cold! I wouldn't know how much having injectors done would cost for yours, but a quick search on ebay came up with a few "refurbished" (to what extent is anyones guess) at £230 EACH!!! New ones were coming in at over £400 EACH.......!!!!!!! That buys a heck of a lot of fuel! But I believe the Webasto heater runs on diesel so yes that will be a factor, but not all year, only operates under certain temperature conditions. Some of the guys more knowledgeable on the operation of it will help on that I'm sure!

Trying to be positive about it, even down in Portugal the ambient temperature will have dropped a bit over the last few months, which will affect the fuel consumption, more so on short journeys. A colder engine uses more fuel. And winter diesel is different too - but I have NO idea if you get that, probably not, but I don't know if you're North or South and ever see freezing conditions. Just my opinion, but if it runs well without excess smoke, starts fine, and no problems at any running conditions then it's not over likely to have damaged injectors. Of course you may have had it years, I don't know that level of detail, and the fuel use has not been this low before at this time of year. But if you have had it a while have you always filled the tank? If not then there's no comparison to be had sadly. And at 2 to 3 mpg worse yes it's costing you money, but at low miles per year (guessing again here because of the 10km journey, but you could do it many times a day.....) then that actual cost may not be that high? And it's relative cost compared to a set of refurbished or new injectors?

Hi again @@thomassen7 , just been idling away a few minutes this morning and had a thought. On mine I did also change the auxiliary pulleys and tensioner, one was a very tiny bit whistly, not much but even I could hear it and I've got dodgy hearing. Do you know if they've ever been changed, given its age not mileage? Also has the cambelt and pulleys been done? The 2.4 has them, mine is chain driven with tensioners.

I'm not an oil expert, but I'd check what temperatures the oil grades say they are suitable for, the bottom end being the most important one in your situation for cold engine starts. A very quick search reckons the 5w is good down to -30C. However I guess that even 10w 60 possibly covers it if your local warehouse are selling it!??? Maybe summer only though hey! But from my experience it's unnecessarily thick at the hot range end. I had no change in the noise on 10w40, none at all.

Not ideal but not too horrendous at that. Every 2.5 or 2.9 (no Chryslers by the way) diesel I've owned has been around the 25 to 26 mark, or under, unless it has been on a good run. How up to date is it on service stuff, namely the air filter? And have you got any sticking brakes? Are tyre pressures good?

Hi there! My current 3.3 does that, but the previous 2 models didn't do it. It's on 5w30, but I've tried 10w40 as I was also concerned when I first got it. But a lot milder in the UK than where you are!!! I wouldn't worry too much, mines been at it for 40,000 miles now, up at 129,000. I can only guess but on mine it could be the valve mechanisms, ancient tech - overhead valve - not cam - and pushrods. Or it could be the chain drive for the cam, I'm not remotely tempted to tackle that. However definitely give it an oil and filter change, or if it's cheap enough and the old stuff has been in for a while, and looks horribly black, or hasn't been done too often in its life, do it twice within a small number of miles. But don't use an oil flush additive, because if it's never been done before you can disturb gloopy crud that you don't want to shift too quickly, better to dilute it slowly over a few oil changes.

This is the current one with 18" wheels, 245 45 tyres