bignev

Yep!! Mostly use the Vehicle assistance section for questions, this is just a kind of hello area! It's not happened to me, well not yet! But - if it's £150 to fit a used compressor, then there's nowt else other than a re-gas to get it running again, on any car, making the assumption it worked before of course. So do you have any options for a second opinion? With more AC experience? Of course right now the car won't go far without that auxiliary belt. If it didn't then who knows, if it's a 3.3 it could have leaks on the pipes to the back, or the rear coil is duff (guess how I know this....) or on either version all sorts of other stuff. If you put your car details in the section on your profile it helps nail down what we're talking about!

Hiya Richard, do you get it to start by proving the fuel pressure manually? On another vehicle my problem was caused by the fuel non return device failing so it drained back to the tank. And the pump can't pull if there's air in the line! New non return on, sweet as you like!

Hi there! How and where is the pressure being measured? Having had problems in the past, if the AC is off, and the reading is taken at the port where a DIY can of refrigerant gas would be connected, then it could be around 5 bar. When I checked this against my other car and van, that's correct. The fans are cleverly controlled, and it would appear will only go to high speed if necessary, I hardly ever hear my Subaru fans go high, they must move plenty of air on low or medium!

Hi there @@Gtiracer , is your model one of the "Executive" ones? Silver trim panels at the side of the centre console? When we were looking around for another a few years ago I remember seeing a few, and they didn't have quite all the trim that others did, so maybe that could be it. But maybe not. The LTD versions don't all have the DVD, but it seems the XS mostly do. I wouldn't dare to guess if Chrysler fitted the same wiring loom in them all. But they did on our 2002 base model - I swapped cloth seats out and fitted leather, and the wiring for the motor and heaters was there! Got a set of switches for the dash and it all worked great!! Easiest job would be as @@Madmax says, either headrest of roof mount aftermarket. Clearly not as nice as having the original kit of course, but if you like a bit of a challenge!!

Hi there, I've had a tuning box of one type or another on all of the diesels I've had in the last 16 years, Ford Galaxy 1.8 x 2, Kia Sedona 2.9, Mazda 6 2.0 Sport - this made a huge difference, and my van - a Renault Master 2.5, 2006, had it from new, just turned 110,000 miles and had a box on from about 2000 miles. So no the box itself won't hurt the car as long as the car is good to start with. The Kia had dodgy injectors and that made it awful, good when they were replaced.

Edit - see vehicle assistance section

Well no one ever said there's anything strange about chrysler electrics. ..... Oh er actually they might have done!!!?

Hi there! Now, this is a bit of a guess based on the other electrical stuff going off before the engine, but there's a small chance it could be an electrical ground wire not doing its job fully. I don't know why that would be related to being cold though.... My other car is a 2005 Subaru, and on that forum it's quite usual for all manner of electrical gremlins to be caused by loose or corroded earth straps. So it's a cheap and simple place to start. I'm assuming it doesn't bring on the engine management light, so no fault codes to give you a possible starting place?

Ah yes quite possibly, I don't recall any of ours feeling particularly heavy to get open so maybe the gas lifters are getting a bit tired! Any other guys got an opinion?

Hi there! If yours doesn't already have the electric tailgate then it could probably be a bit of a task, as the original has pinch sensors for closing and resistance sensors for opening, a motorised latch to pull it shut that last bit, probably other stuff, and it's own electronic control module too. Our 2nd GV had an intermittent attitude to opening with it - occasionally it would!! I tried a new motor and gear assembly, and a control module. Then gave up on a fruitless game. This one, our 3rd, currently works electrically, with the buttons on the overhead or the remote, or with the key in the latch, but mostly won't release the latch by hand. But of course there may be a more straightforward way to stick an opener on it!!

I think possibly what you are referring to is the IOD fuse, which is actually "Ignition Off Draw", which MIGHT help reset the Body Control Module if it's had a bit of a hiccup with various things. But if I have read that warning I can't remember, and have clearly chosen to ignore its advice

On the 3.3 or 3.8 petrols, they are over head VALVE, pushrod engines, not overhead CAM, seriously old technology hey. That's why the oil changes are so frequent, it's a ruddy old engine, just like the stuff from the early days of my driving in the early 80's. From my owners handbook written by Chrysler, under "normal" operating conditions, the oil and filter changes on the 2.5 diesel engine are at 20,000 kilometres, 12,500 miles. It doesn't cover the 2.8 which I believe is quite a different unit. And I don't really get why we have an area on the forum titled "newbie" it's kind of a non area really, as I've advised many people lots of members do not check here if they're on to help others out in the "vehicle assistance" sections.

Hi there! That info will depend on what make of plug you are fitting, then I'd look for it on the manufacturers website! Big tip - remove the wiper scuttle to get at the rear plugs, it is not difficult at all and WAY quicker than struggling with it fitted!

Yep. Lovely old tech engines, I presume you mean the petrol cos that's what my book says.

Yes indeed. My subaru outback gearbox does have a drain plug. And a spin on type fluid filter, just like an oil filter. But that's located in the wing behind the battery..... pros and cons hey! But it is a doddle to do the whole job. Not like the transmission pan on my GV, got it a bit more controlled the 2nd time I did it by leaving several bolts in so it could only pop off a little, and in the direction I wanted!

Hi there. If it's been unused and flat battery for 2 years it's going to be a sod to get sorted. The start then stop on my Grand Voyager is a condition of the immobiliser key nit being recognised. If it won't crank at all now is it that the battery is flat? And - always bether to post in the vehicle assistance sections as not all our members check all the areas of the site !

Hi there and welcome! It's usually better to post in the vehicle assistance sections as not all our members check all the areas! However, in my own opinion, due to the large amount of stuff I'm hearing about in the last few years, on all manner of cars, I would personally be sorting out a way to keep 12volts on while the batteries are swapped, to avoid "spiking" any electronics. I've not had a problem yet on my Grand Voyager or my 2005 Subaru outback, but it seems it's becoming far more common and likely!

Hi there and welcome! However, I'd suggest that you post questions for help in the relevant area of the Vehicle Assistance section! It seems many members don't habitually check the newbie area! Good Luck! Nev

Hi there and welcome! However, I'd suggest that you post questions for help in the relevant area of the Vehicle Assistance section! It seems many members don't habitually check the newbie area! Good Luck! Nev

Hi there and welcome! However, I'd suggest that you post questions for help in the relevant area of the Vehicle Assistance section! It seems many members don't habitually check the newbie area! Good Luck! Nev

Hi there and welcome! However, I'd suggest that you post questions for help in the relevant area of the Vehicle Assistance section! It seems many members don't habitually check the newbie area! Good Luck! Nev

On the air con, depending if you have the auto or manual control type, if the airflow is directed to the windscreen the AC will switch on to aid demisting, need it or not. Not just when it's all the way to the screen either, a couple of notches away from all the way round and it;s still on. If you have an owners handbook it's in there somewhere. However, mine does it in any position now, unless I pull the relay like you. So of course because it's not used much it's lost gas again from having it sorted last year, when will I learn My folding mirrors decide where they park, not at all in the right spot, usually way too far forward, so now they are held in the correct position with black insulation tape, I gave up on them!

Well then, it's on the options list, as I've just measured ours and it's 3 ft 1.5 inches!!

@@simonguvna I've just read your other post, so now I know its an electric chair for your wife! If she travels in it I don't think the standard Voyager is suitable as there aren't the tie points for securing the chair for travelling. But if she is able to transfer over to the car seat it could be, standard or stow n go, either of the able bodied adults can get into the back row comfortably! If she doesn't travel in it, then the stow n go would probably be the answer, 5 good seats and big flat store at the back for the chair and ramp, will need some sort of adapter to attach the ramp when loading up though!! Mum did have an electric scooter for a while and it fitted in ours a doddle, but I was strong enough to lift it in there! Also my wife just reminded me that the seats were quite high for mum too, so that is a factor for you to consider. As she got less able it became a struggle for her to get in, even with help. On mine the maximum clear sliding door width is 700mm.

It depends on what the wheelchair design is. We had 2 of us, my twin girls, and my mother in law with folding wheelchair. If it's a motorised chair then you'll need a proper adapted one, we had a Sedona for a while to get 4 seats plus the chair to travel in. But before that the Voyager worked well with a folding chair, on the stow n go the back bench is split so there's a good load area plus seat for one of the adults.