bignev

Oh they obviously think they're very special Yep sometimes it really is better to not disturb stuff, I absolutely totally agree on not tempting fate!!! On that radio weird switch off - my Renault van radio can be put ON when there is no key in the ignition, but it will go off after a period, couldn't accurately tell you but my guess would be 15 minutes, when I'm doing oil changes, or whatever it might be, I occasionally do that. So, does your radio come on with the ignition then go off later, or do you have to switch it on manually?

Ours does the same cycle through the CD / DVD multi changer when the battery is reconnected, so my guess on that is it's a normal event.

Well, we have had it 8 years! But only done 50,000 miles, total up to around 136,000 now. Yeah you've not done too badly there!!! Oh yep, the interior mirror.... proper mirror glue, then fed up with that and super glued the sod. Then again when it fell off again. I don't like to temp fate either, but as yet not had the battery drain...... Had a few incidents of weird and wonderful behaviours, not locking, strange rear lights not on, etc, cured by the infamous "turn it off" reset (take the IOD fuse out, or battery disconnect). Driving down the road with the alarm going off? Well why on earth would that raise any concerns??? Spare parts car!! Cracking!

Hi there! A strange one. I'm having a think! When you say no ignition, do you mean there is no spark at ANY of the plugs? And how is the fuel pressure being measured? Seemingly a heat related problem.

Yep, cracking analogy!! Oh I forgot about the charcoal canister fault that makes it a total pain putting petrol in, doesn't vent properly so takes forever once you get over about 6 litres, put its no big deal as we don't use much petrol, we're on LPG !! Indeed, the only close things we fancy are Japanese import Toyota Vellfire, but still too pricy for us just yet! And as for what do we know?? Well, me and my work colleague reckon, compared to the ones who are supposedly in charge of such things - EVERYTHING !!

Well yep that's a pain in the posterior! I've warned mine a few times too, behave or else. The AC no longer works, and I am NOT replacing that front to rear pipe run, I did it about 6 years ago with a new Chrysler part, very reasonable at the time, all 4 (2 cool 2 heat) pipes for about £150. The rear heater coil leaks so its capped off. It uses (don't know how or where!!) coolant - just regularly top it up. Folding mirrors cocked up years ago. Electric sliding door drivers side cable track has broken a wire, it also had a new one about 5 years ago. No - my electrical soldering isn't any good, I've tried it. Handbrake is predictably garbage. Built in DVD player has a mind of its own, but my girls are a bit older now have other devices to keep them entertained, thankfully. 3 water pumps, 2 power steering pumps, 2 ignition coils, radiator, rear calipers stick then get replaced (possibly another on the cards now!), a couple of door lock actuators, 2 complete front suspension struts (springs / dampers / top mounts), at least 2 sets of front suspension drop links, anti roll bar bushes, front wheel bearings, and I'm sure lots of others I'm blanking from memory! All minor, but still slightly annoying, given how much effort and parts I put into it when we bought it 8 years ago to make it pretty mint. Like you, though, we think it is still a great car when it's behaving for family !

Hi guys, I was going to suggest more or less what Richard has, but by pulling the IOD fuse, in the past I have had that reset some very strange behaviour!

Hi there, I've never had anything other than an alternator be the problem, but as you say our cars are getting a little old now and other cables or earths could be the cause. I don't personally know how to, but can it be tested at the alternator terminal for output? westlancsautoelectrics.co.uk used to be pretty good, but I haven't needed them for a couple of years so can't qualify on recent pricing. Or is it worth considering a second hand unit, one with a warranty, say from a business seller on ebay?

Yeah the guy is clearly full of poop. Like a comment I got once on rear pads - "severely worn" - well with 4mm left I would rather disagree. The handbrake as most of us know is garbage. I reckon quite influenced by the fact the hand lever acts through a daft clockspring affair, so lots of the effort is absorbed and not put through the cables. There have been many posts on it in the past, with a few tips to get it to come up good enough for an MOT pass. Yes, it is a cable operated set of brake shoes, inside the rear drums, totally independent of the hydraulic main braking system. I'm completely at a loss as to what the manual is referring to on this section, clearly does not apply to our models, but maybe the American versions had some lovely hybrid system as there's some contradictory statements in the rest of that text excerpt!! Well it either uses a motor on the caliper, which would be an electric parking brake, or it uses the inside of the brake rotor, it can't have both!!!! Or can it?????? And as far as I knew, none up to the end of the 4th Gen had a caliper handbrake. Either electric or manual. Maybe the 5th Gen does / did? Mine certainly haven't, none of the 3 I had. All had cable operated shoes inside the disc, and all were carp.....

Aha you should be alright then!! No there isn't an actual technical section, it's all the posts in the particular vehicle assistance sections, and yes there is somewhere a downloadable technical manual but I can't remember where it might be. Somewhere in those posts a cracking bloke Qinteq used to link to them, if I come across it I'll ping it to you! Fingers crossed you got a good one!

Try a search on wheelfitment.eu but be wary of the offset too!

Hi there! Yes - are you any good at car maintenance? Read the vehicle assistance section of the forum to get an idea of the little foibles it will quite likely present you! Cheers! Nev

And rather unfortunately any advice is a little late, as this thread is over 7 years old........ From my experiences on the Subaru Outback forum, I believe in the USA you can run "carfax" checks which seem to quite often have service histories if the workshops have uploaded them. As you say @maxcaddy that doesn't exist in the UK!

Cracking result Richard! The reason I could think of, is an engineering one, for a shoulder larger than the thread, is for a tight fit to the base of wheel hole that the tread passes through, to give more resistance to the (very small) chance of rotational movement. As the studs are not a "fixed" position, pressed in from the back, when lazy tyre fitters chuck the wheel on and whizz it up with the air gun, if it's slightly out it could also disturb the stud. Yes, I agree that's what happens all the time and ALMOST never a problem, but often enough those studs get loose and then the garage or tyre shop need the engineering shop to fit a new stud! And ultimately, above any other reasons or discussion, the originals had them. Many cars don't, these did.

I'm not at home so can't get under the bonnet to check mine, but have you read the lid of the relay and fuse box? Next tk the battery? But it might not be that, could be the Powertrain Control Module not doing its bit. Try a general tinterweb search, I just turned up a bit of info on an American site. The unit on the gearbox is the solenoid pack, which is a different animal.

Yep at only a few months old ot shouldn't have died...... Bur as qinteq used to say - its a lifestyle and usage type result. Too many starts and not enough run time will take it right down, and as you say if it's git that drain as well its got a problem!

I got a pair from those guys and the studs had no shoulders at all on the base of the threads, so I returned them, no problem for a refund I'll give them that.

Hello again! Well as I said on the other section, mine is petrol, but I had a Kia Sedona with a "wind over but not start" problem, and fine with a sniff of easy start, or other such spray! Mine was ultimately the injectors, but that seems to be a rarity on the Voyager. More possible to be the fuel filter housing cracking, or the fuel pressure non return valve. But hopefully the diesel guys will be along soon to chip in with actual Chrysler experience! Cheers, Nev

You're in the wrong section of the forum, repost in the Vehicle assistance section fir help! But - wild guess lith limited info, NO ignition could be the coil or its connection failing when hot, certainly if it sits over the exhaust manifold like mine does. I've had 3 coils, but it only failed on 2 cylinders at a time!

Hi Paul and welcome! Posting queries for help in the vehicle assistance section, generation 4 or 5 in your case, depends on your exact model, would be the way to get the attention of the guys with diesel experience, mines petrol!

I don't know how easy it will be, but I reckon the studs should be swappable. When I did mine I had real trouble getting ones that had shouldered bottoms on the studs for the wheel, I surrendered eventually and just went with the best I could get. Got lucky and came across a Mopar one but not the other. Been a few years and not been a big deal as far as I can tell.

Well done for finding that write up instructions pal!! But yes the Lion is a eurocarparts cheapo. Had one on my Subaru Outback when I bought it, 55ah, 480 cold cranking amps. In fairness to it, it lasted nearly 3 years before it gave a problem, but the Subaru is petrol. Anyhow, the new one is 65ah, 580 cca, and you can't half tell the difference on starting up!

I presume you figured out the rotary switch on the headlamp panel? Puts the courtesy lights to: Off Auto with doors alters brightness And puts on the rear 6 lights but not the ones on the centre front overhead Then if I remember right, the brightness of the front dash and clocks But be wary, you can then inadvertently leave them on, not ignition switched. I'm not at home so can't double check that sequence!

Yep Richard has the correct approach there, don't do it!! Andy B I think was the guy, electronics seem to be his passion, and I don't think that ultimately he sorted it!! Chuffin yanks..... Or get a replacement head unit that used to appear on ebay, and if it doesn't do what it said - fire it back!