bignev

Hi there we have a reversing camera on our 2002 GV, but with its own screen, sat it tight to the A pillar on drivers side. Ours simply wired into the reverse light feed and earth wires for power. Or are you trying to connect it into the DVD screen? Aftermarket? I believe they are a bugger to install and work with the Chrysler wiring and wheel controls. Cheers Nev

I had a 2002 version that would stop working on occasion, what used to sort ours was giving the connectors under the seat a wiggle!!!! Our current one has obviously had problems in the past as the box is not fixed in position now. Cheers, Nev

Hi Daz, Yep chuffing huge 20" if you want to trash the ride quality!!!! I got a great deal on 18" from a local supplier in Stockport, £650 wheels and tyres, fitted. The tyre model I have is the Accelera PH1 - R Motorsport Wheels, Whitehill Industrial Estate. It still drives beautifully. And they don't actually look that big on the car. Now I realise tyres are very subjective and personnal, and until I spoke to a mate of mine who put me on to these guys 3 years ago, I would never have considered "Accelera" on my car. However, in all weathers, for 24,000 miles on my 02 plate 3.3, (17" package, Accelera Alpha, same supplier) and 4000 miles in our 05 3.3, on these, they are totally fine. They are not "ditch finders" nor are they the best thing on the planet for your Ferrari, but they work well on my heavy bus. Might well be rubbish on a light car - but that ain't a Grand Voyager! They don't last quite as long, but they are less than half the money. They don't readily lock up in the wet. And on the way back from holiday stopped a fully loaded GV rapidly in the face of a half wit on the wrong side of the road up hill towards us. We were doing 60mph, down hill, full of kit. No drama.

Hi Guys Having struggled to find the correct type for the fog lamp bulb for the facelift model, with round fogs, I thought I would stick them on here for info now I've been under the car and popped one out: Halfords list it incorrectly - anyone need some HB4 (9006) bulbs? Low Beam - H7 High Beam - H9 Side lights - W5W Fogs - H10 (also called 9145) Hope that helps someone. On the low beam - try HID conversion kits - cheap as chips currently. I paid £12.99 inc delivery Looks like a few of us have tried them! Cheers, Nev

Replaced the rad on my 3.3 sourced from ebay for £71 in mid 2014 Mine was leaking not overheating though!

Hi there, Have you had chance to investigate further on yours? Good to let our other members know, especially if it's a straightforward fix compared to what some mechanics were telling you hey. And a whole lot cheaper than a gearbox. Nev

Ttry Pentagon Chrysler at Barnsley, Yorkshire, they emailed me a picture from the page when i needed the air con pipes to the rear heater so we could identify it properly cheers Nev

Ho ho I got some LED side lights too!! I got giddy and bought the 13 smd ones, 4 round the sides, 3 high, 1 on the end - so bright it's untrue! And just over a fiver the pair. Yes I saw one site that gave the example of the bluer ones, and they appear to put less visible light on the road too - so pointless, well unless that what you're after of course! I put xenen white H9 in for high beam, standard 65w, blooming good light output. I drove last night for the first time with the HID's - holy poop they are good - got to get a kit for my van!!!!!!!

I ended up with the 4300k, I was quite confused, but read on 2 sales adds that for greater effective light on road, but not as distinctive, the 4300 was the one. And they also reckon that OEM stuff is around that value. I can always get the 6000k bulbs cheap enough to compare hey! If you put it in context - cheaper than 2 coffees at most mainstream coffee houses!

Oh yes it's no return once that sanding disc hits the lens! I did it early, before a drive we will be having up to the Scottish borders, so if it went tits up I had plenty of time to get hold of a second hand one. Well worth the effort. The instructions say to mask off the area around them to avoid damage, but I notice you did what I did - take them off as it's only 3 bolts, much safer.

Just done mine - I am a copycat - very pleased and not too difficult at all, just a little tricky to house the box as my cables were fairly short. Ended up bolting them up on the headlamp bolts!

Well I took a gamble on a very cheap H7 HID conversion kit off ebay, £12.99, and it's actually very good (so far). Also changed the high beam H9 bulbs for xenon white, and the side lights for some led's, 13 yes 13 in a tower form and they are ace- very bright, especially after I followed the lead of the member on the headlight restoration kit.

Well as they say imitation is the most sincere form of flattery, so I have copied you and am very pleased with the result on my headlight!!! There are still some flaws in it, but not on the lens now. Only really shows up if you stand to the side and look for it. Would also highly recomend, as you and another user has, the (very cheap) HID low beam conversion kit - chuffing brilliant - £12.99 ebay - thought it would be rubbish but took a gamble as I was going to replace all the bulbs for the "xenon" white ones while I had the headlights out. Hope it lasts!

This is one of the youtube videos - search for Chrysler Town & Country 2005 pulley alternator noise Hope it helps anyone else Nev

Hi there, I've pm'd you on the video. If the tensioner wasn't doing its job and the belt was loose I would reckon it would squeek or squeel as it slipped. The interior lamps and headlights flicker on our other one that never made any noise, bizarely, but charge voltage is fine so I don't worry about that personnally. Probably something not quite spot on with the voltager regulator / rectifier.

Hi guys! Well we are on our third! Been working up the spec sheet - 2002 3.3 LX, (still got it - on gas), 2002 3.3 Ltd, changed that for a 2005 3.3 (again) Ltd XS, stow n go - also on gas! Yeah we think they're fairly ok too!!!! Not without faults but not much is hey! And lots can be sorted much more cheaply than you might think.

My handbook said H7 dip and main but mine are actually H7 dip and H9 main beam! 2005, facelift headlights model. So I won't order the H3 then, not till I've seen it hey!

Flipping heck thats a good clear lens!!! Was it "fogging" ? One of mine (drivers) is, and I've been looking for a not too expensive replacement, not found one yet obviously! Cheers, Nev

Hi there, It's fixed. New alternator - blooming lovely now. A lot of American guys have posted video of the Dodge Grand Caravan or Chrysler Town and Country doing exactly what mine did.

Hi there, sorry its been a while, holidays then back to work (self employed) at 300 mph on return. Anyhow, as the decoupler pulley required the removal of the alternator to get it off, I had a change of plan. Do the alternator. So have just done it tonight, not too bad a job really, about an hour - but mine I reckon has been off before - the bolts weren't that tight and the EGR valve bolts came out readily too (that had to come off to get the alternator out of the engine bay!!! If you don't have one then it won't be in the way. The oil dip stick tube is not in the way - some US sites suggest it needs shifting - mine didn't. More of a pain in the bum was trying to get the blooming belt back on all the pulleys, probably spent an extra 45 minutes tarting about with that! On my own though. Probably 5 mins with 2 people. But the really good news is that now it doesn't do that horrible noise anymore. So I hope you haven't spent money on anything in between times! I did manage to get a video with sound this morning as well, if you're interested to check its the same noise as yours. Cheers, Nev

Hi there, Don't know if they are the same, but I got a new central locking actuator motor for our Grand Voyager sliding door from the USA, delivered, for under £23! They are an aftermarket part, and the same unit fits both sides, it came with the 2 different arms, just fit the one you need. Do check you have voltage to them first though hey! Ours was obvious, it tried to move but only "twitched" when taken off the door with power connected. Apparenetly the motors magnets go weak, not uncommon. Cheers, Nev

Hi there, Only a far out shot, but is the key the original? I've had a similar problem but not on my GV, it was a Renault and the transponder had moved in the key, so the reader ring around the ignition didn't always see it. It would crank over like yours, but no ignition. I'm sure the original Chrysler keys won't let that happen though. Does the red secuirity light on the dash go out confirming it's happy with the key? Cheers Nev

The gear oil looks fine on ours too, and good on level, 1st thing I checked on the hunt!!

And also I tried it in gear, foot on brake, revs up by say 200 rpm, and it goes away - not very likely gear box

But if like mine it does it when AC on but not in gear then its not gearbox - good for you and me. Mine is also silent when driving, getting to / from our house we have to drive down a road with cars either side, so with windows open and when revs are up slightly and moving (so torque converter working) it doesn't do it.