bignev

ooh not sure on that - I may have read somewhere (could be wrong) that once a key is registered it can't be used on another, no idea how that happens. Oh hang on, just read "key" as you put, so the blade won't work in your locks of course, so it's no use. However - an AUTO locksmith - a good one - should be able to provide and cut the key / transponder anyhow. And help with the non working fobs too I should hope. It's not batteries is it? Only asking! I paid £60 for a new key, which wasn't particularly cheap, and they struggled to cut the key, at our "shop front" guys, supplied and coded in.

Just search "Chrysler 5 button remote fob", just found a few. If you mean the panic button is the 6th one then yes - mine did!! There is one from China at £9.83, inc postage!!! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Key-Fob-Head-Ignition-Keyless-Entry-Remote-6-Buttons-for-M3N5WY72XX-Chrysler-/231697139929?hash=item35f239c8d9:g:f4sAAOSw0HVWAT5L Very long delivery time though!! But it has the key transponder in it too, and a blade that just need cutting. I am that intrigued / impressed I just ordered one. As I have 2 keys it says I should be able to program it in - I will post it on here yay or nay when it arrives and I give it a try.

Yep, thats right, and don't be put off by "oh no it can't be done". A decent auto locksmith can and did do it. Once they had the pin number took about 10 minutes tops. And my 2nd hand one works just fine on all functions. My local shop-front auto locksmiths couldn't, they said it was a dealer only part and job. In the same way that a tyre with a screw in the edge of the tread "can't be repaired" YES IT CAN. What they mean is we can't do it, because we don't have the ability to do a heat vulcanise repair. But most won't tell you the full detail and truth.

A good auto locksmith (not electricain) can program in a 2nd hand remote, I had one done, got it off ebay, and they should be able to cut a key with transponder and code it to the car as well. They would need the pin number for the car to code in the remote, it's not the radio code. There is a very good mobile guy near Manchester, but you don't say where you are

Only 1 left - hope it doesn't sell!

I got top and bottom hoses off Ebay for my 3.3 a couple of years ago, great service. They are Car Parts USA, one on right now at £29.99 +£4.10 postage.

I'm gonna need the luck I think. Got nothing to lose so while it's dry and light at night will strap up another earth somehow. I'll keep you all posted!!

Well, on further investigation it does look like 96 to 04 would appear to be interchangeable....... As long as you go for the same engine and gearbox mating. We'll see.......

Just a thought, if I have ended up with a replacement TCM that's duff, any idea if one with similar but not the same part number work? Yes I appreciate it may have different shift patterns, and other things, but if it's the same software from an earlier version, and above all if it communicates, then it's a step forward. From the very detailed info on the data sheets it seems they lose any learned stuff on a battery disconnect anyhow, and go back to standard parameters. I cannot find another with the exact same number now. I've been outside under and over the damn car most of the afternoon and can't see anything untoward, the unit is getting 12v, the ignition switch 12v happens correctly, the pci wire bells out ok. I also found the "red wire splice" that various forums refer to, it's in the big wiring loom tube directly in front of the transmission, bugger all wrong with mine. I can't find any earth straps that they refer to, other than on the starter motor. In my mind it would seem the 2nd TCM appears to be a duffer, but have no means to check this of course, can't find anywhere for info with resistances through it.

Cheers, VERY useful link. Sadly it means my 2005 car can't swap the TCM to check it, they have changed it to a combined unit instead of separate engine ECU and TCM,arse. Back to the 2002, I have done a continuity test on what is supposed to be the bus wire from the TCM pin 43 to PCM behind the battery and that wire is fine, sadly. And opened up the wire harness underneath, and again sadly all look and feel ok. But the problem is a lack of communication TCM to PCM and that sodding wire is fine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! And yes it's got a good earth back to the PCM, I did check that.

Ok then, I thought I was going to be clever and put the old TCM on my 2005 car, anyone know where it is??????? Cos it's not under the wing like the 2002!!!!!!! I can confirm thought it is getting 12 volts to pins 56 + and 57 -. Or anyone know of any tests with a multimeter I can do on the TCM????

Yes, it drives beautifully smoothly, but only selects 2nd of the forward gears, won't change up, and still selects reverse, park and neutral, silently - no graunching. I get the same results with the TCM disconnected. I have seen the posts before on the earthing problems, but they seem to have different symptoms, jumping gear and into neutral while driving. I don't know the make of the scanner, it belongs to (thankfully) a good mate who owns a workshop. But as I said it sees all the seperate items on my 2005 car, inc the TCM data, and the on the 2002 one with the problem but not the TCM. I am popping down there tomorrow, will let you all know if I weigh it in for scrap or it's further investigations!!! And thanks for the input, I'm getting naffed off with it. I am heading to thinking I've been really unlucky and got a duff 2nd hand unit too!

Hi guys, On our 2002 3.3 V6 I've been struggling to find the cause of the code, "no CCD / J1850 message from TCM / PCM" It drives fine - apart from the fact it's in 2nd gear, or reverse - with no speedo All the gear indicator blocks are illuminated. I have access to a proper full on code reader that will see the TCM unit on our other 2005 car including solenoid pressures etc etc etc, I have physically checked the wiring, checked all fuses, relays, swapped some around to check just in case. I've swapped the TCM, and the dash / clocks console. But no change - and the code reader doesn't "see" either of the TCM's. Any clever ideas fellas???? If I can't sort it I will sell it, we've had it 4 years, up to now been great, only 1 previous owner too, and a genuine full service history. LX model but with full leather and multi CD changer, and on LPG.

Jolly Damn Fine Result!!!!

Nice work fella - well done and thanks for putting results on here - should be appreciated by all! Not too relevant to me as I've got 2 LPG ones, but useful all the same.

Hiya Daz how are you? I am going to do mine in the near future, start of summer service time. Could you let me know how you get on after changing the transmission fluid as I've read sometimes you get hard shifting for a bit after the job until it setles down again. Hope you are well!

I know what you mean, just how can they make profit? The one from the states looked almost identical, but it had colour coded fitting on the arms for left or right!!! Keep us informed!

I got a central loocking motor from the US last year for around £23, delivered, from ebay. The same motor from these guys fits both doors using a different adaptor arm. Easy enough to try, but a pain in the bum, taking the inner door card off you can get at the motors, then see if they move with the arm removed, and also try it on the opposite side door - not fitted just plug it to the wiring loom. Just had a quick shufty on ebay on the "similar items"search and came up with this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Rear-Sliding-Power-Door-Lock-Actuator-For-Chrysler-Town-Country-Voyager-/281979353479?hash=item41a7477987 looks exactly like mine, only even cheaper!!!

Bit of a guess but could be the drain tube from the wiper linkage / air intake scuttle in front of the windscreen. From under the bonnet see if you can spot one plugged up on the opposite side of the car.

Yep chuffing huge pal!! As penguin says the only real problem would be insurers inspectors being jobsworths if you have an accident. My foot as yours only really uses the right side of the pedal (well with the size of yours you'll use more of it hee hee) so in reality it would not be at all unsafe, but if they want to wriggle that won't be the point.

Couple of questions: How ruddy big ARE your ruddy feet!!!!!! I guess you have long legs too, I don't but do tend to drive with the seat a lot further back than leg length would dictate. My foot fits nicely just in the indent at the side of the console. Try getting the seat as far back as you possibly can maybe? I tried my mates new Mondeo recently, bloody crap driving position in comparison, wheel too low (at highest) and too close, crap. And how far does your pedal travel, mine moves only around an inch. I guess its a typo from Penguin, left foot braking possibly you meant!

I've had the dubious pleasure of travelling in the rear row myself, and I swear my missus nails it over speed bumps to upset me!! It does feel very harsh in the back of mine over them, at a normal pace. But fine on normal roads. As you say, you are sat over the back axle, not a great place to be.

hee hee hee! But some good info in it, like how far they won't go between oil changes when used round town all the time - 3000 miles!! Pushing it too far will damage the chain - search Vauxhall 2.2 petrol engine forums. Bloody good price that gas!!! Yes mpg should go up hey, and I guess that funny smell won't bother you anymore, less drag wear on the rear tyres too!!

The petrol engines don't have rubber cam belts, they are chain driven. I've had 3 of them, 2 on gas like you! Technically it's not a camchain, it's a timing chain as it doesn't do it in the same way as "modern" engine designs do. Check your handbook for suggested intervals - there aren't any. Feel slightly smug that we don't have to do that job. And feel slightly more smug that on gas ours work out less pence per mile than diesel. Recently got the heady level of 26 mpg on a run, at 44p per litre - 101 for diesel, divide 44 for LPG, gives 2.295, multiply this by 26mpg makes an equivilent of 59.68 mpg - fecking awesome!

Result!! Good to know information!