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Leaf in the fan blades!

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Hi there! So, if it eventually starts and them it will just carry on running, (as I don't have a diesel Voyager I'm going off experience on other cars) it's possible it could be fuel drain back. As in lack of fuel pressure at the rail. If you have or can get access to an OBD reader this should potentially help to see this - maybe!! My van had this problem, simply caused by the non return valve on the fuel line into my filter having failed. It may be yours is on the edge. But obviously it's just an educated guess!!

Broken drive shaft?

Sad to see you both go! Pop back and let us know what you get next! You don't have to own a Voyager to impart your knowledge and experience! Please check in now and again! All the best mate, Nev

Wish I could help mate! Looking like not very many gen 5 owners come on here hey!

I did our drop links very recently, as it too sounded like the proverbial sack of spanners on only slightly uneven ground. One side had, by the time I could bring myself to get under it, ripped out of the shock mount, fallen down, and been bent like a half U by severe mechanical forces! So when turning in one direction it touched the inside of the wheel and made a hell of a horrible sound! That got my attention I can tell you! So it might not be quite as bad as you first think! Does it grind when turning the steering when stood still? That would be a duff top bearing usually.

Hi There! Yep - first get hold of a second hand fob, I got mine off ebay, albeit about 6 years ago. Then - or search for and speak to them and book them before - get a good auto locksmith to pop along and cut you a new key, with a new transponder, he will simply programme that in, absolute doddle for them that part. The slightly more tricky part will be coding the "new" fob to the car. A pin code number was needed on ours, that we didn't have in our books. But of course Chrysler have beggered off out of the UK so it might be less easy than it was. Or the locksmith will know a way round it. But do not believe anyone if they say you need a brand new fob. You don't. Or that it can't be done. YES IT CAN. If they can't do it, someone will be able to. Like the analogy of a puncture repair at tyre shops - "It's too close to the edge we can't repair it" As in "THEY" can't, but IT can. Because it could be Vulcanised but very few have the skills or equipment. Good luck!

The world's gone blooming bananas on everything. The Baxi boiler I frequently fit has gone from a grand to £1320 in less than 2 years. Disgusting. How the heck can any normal person survive this? It's sad on the car, but I also think ours may not be too long for this world. Its got several tinkling clanking noises, and a very rusty suspension top mount under the bonnet. And I'm not very inclined to tackle a oair of front struts. They're only 6 years old anyway, brand new complete units. Humbug. And an exhaust blow, again, and it's still drinking coolant. Hey ho.

Ooh heck that's not at all cheap!!!!!! They've gone up dramatically since I did mine a few years ago, including shipping from the States, from Rockauto, was around £80 I think I remember.

hi @wherry did you get anywhere with solving this problem?

OOH NOW - how cheaply could you pick up a shift solenoid pack while you're there????? Part Number - 05015646AB

Ah yes, I just thought of it, yours may have a drive by wire throttle and that would buzz, mines cable. Its a bit of a gamble, and not so simple on these, but maybe a fluid change? And as massive longevity isn't a consideration use cheaper normal ATF instead of the Mopar expensive stuff?

Hi pal, Can you hear any buzz, or indeed anything, from the solenoid pack on top, front, of the gearbox? If it went quite suddenly and the fluid looks and smells good it's a thought....

Yes - to re-programme the key, if it needs it, you will need the services of a good auto locksmith, not a duff one. But if it worked before it should be OK. You can also try removing the IOD (Ignition Off Draw) fuse for 20 to 30 minutes to give it a bit of a wakeup, I've done that too for various things. I've said this on here a couple of times, I had a second hand 5 button remote coded to ours by a great guy, after the local "shop front" company claimed it was main dealer only and would have to be a NEW remote.

Good stuff!! Good result! I guess quite a few of us have learned that we have to live with some limited (or none) functionality of certain parts of our "beloved" transports!!

Hi there! I tried the actual glue for car mirrors to windscreens, lasted many months, then a hot day saw it off. Tried it again, OK for quite a while, then off. So now I've used superglue the last couple of times, arm gets a bit achy while it goes off sufficiently, but it does last a good while!

Yep it is indeed a dangerous possibility when they cut out with no warning. And yes, aren't modern cars bloody heavy on the steering with no assist!! As, of course, they are geared high to work with the hydraulic assistance, not like when we were boys - no assistance whatsoever, but geared low to be able to turn the bugger!! My Subaru SOUNDS like a Porsche, well you know kinda, as it's got the same flat 6 engine. But nowt like the exhaust audio tuning sadly.

Hi mate! I really wish I could help out on this, but as you know mine' petrol / LPG. But it really is ruddy mysterious! A few years ago we had a Kia Sedona with the 2.9 diesel engine, and it wouldn't start hot after a while, but it never cut out. Blew black smoke when you booted it like a Klingon cloaking device though!! That turned out to be the injectors, I changed them myself, as the useless toads round here were "too busy" chicken more like. My van had a non start problem when the non return valve failed, and if I primer pumped it while the Mrs wound it over it would start, but it had to be done at the same time - not prime then go to start it - that wouldn't do it. However temperature was not relevant at all.

Hi there, sorry I have no idea of anyone down your way! But- a garage with a code reader SHOULD be able to read ABS codes. Is the 38 actually a P0038 code, still not related to ABS? Sadly I've no clue what the other stuff means, sorry pal!

Cracking stuff mate!!

I'm sure you've looked it up, but P1790 is a transmission code. I thought 14.4v was a good charging voltage, but not too far away on what you have anyhow. And if there's no alternator light then I'd GUESS the car thinks it's acceptable. So unfortunately you still need to obtain a code read of the ABS fault to move forward or it's all guess work. It won't necessarily tell you what IS up, but may point in a direction. Many code readers will NOT read ABS as Maxcaddy said, which is possibly why the one you've used didn't see it.

Ooh that's blooming rubbish service pal. Sadly all I could suggest would be Mopar wholesale website in the USA.

Hi guys! Cracking you managed to sort it out mate! Yep, I'm with you on that, no, they certainly aren't Japanese reliability that's for sure, but when they're working they're a cracking family travelling lounge!

Hi there, there was strong suspicion they are the same, a 41TE 4 speed electronically controlled type. However, there surely must be some difference, as the petrol engine revs to 7000 rpm, and while I don't know the actual figure for the diesel, would estimate 4500??? So somewhere somehow there has to be a different gear ratio!