bignev

Hello to the newbie! And welcome! Ho ho good one Gordy! In case it's real not a ghost: 1) Second hand one and a GOOD local AUTO locksmith can code it in - yes they can, see elsewhere on this site - had mine done. 2) Yes they need a disc - in the CD slot - don't bother it's going to be 9 years out of date use something else, you're phone or a Garmin / TomTom etc 3) But if the lights above the rear door work then it's the speaker And do yourself a favour - LPG it Good luck matey! Nev

Hi guys, I hope someone has, as my 2005 has the same problem, since we got it. But ours is possibly leaking in the floor area of the boot??? I really should have got round to finding it shouldn't I ?!

Ah ok. Not sounding good then - if it was "overcharging on tickover" then it would seem that there is some other source of the problem. In my old world experience, alternators never failed to an over rated output - they packed up as a winding went, so no output. However - stuff and technology move on.......

And we presume they checked the performance of the voltage regulator / rectifier?

No sense of adventure for these things me, I ended up with complete struts from Germany, £220 ish the pair.

Definitely something VERY VERY dodgy if "they are pumping diesel even when the engine isn't on" I would be rather sure to NOT start with injectors - something is telling them to squirt fuel! When obviously everything should be off. And just precisely what do they mean by engine not on, ignition to start but not cranked? If they were suirting all the time your engine would not start, or even crank over it would hydraulically lock. If they mean they are "weeping" fuel when it's off that's a different matter of course, yes probably new injectors if the solenoid is built into them - don't know on this one.

Me too!! But hey it's more work for the guys .............

As Andy says. OR - Swap that motor from the other door - if it works get one off ebay.

Only a bit of a guess from someone who drives a petrol version, but from experience with other cars, and reading what other guys help with on here, it may just need the tubes cleaning out, long term soot build up if we're lucky.

Nope nor mine, not getting signal through the system to the latch release

My 2005 is the same, and I have changed the handle electrical switch which is now fine. It should open with the handle yes. I can only guess it's something to do with the tailgate ecu, behind the panel on passenger side high up in boot area. I have swapped one but no joy.

Hi there! Oh dear yours is being very unfriendly hey! I only have a couple of suggestions on your list for you: !) wires under the seat - give them a gentle wiggle - mine did it 2) similarly on this - dodgy wiring 3) sliding door wire track has probably got broken wires that will need soldering, assuming the central locking still works on it - if not it's probably the locking actuator cos if it won't unlock the door won't motor open. 6) check your power steering fluid!! 7 and 8) sticking brake caliper - very very common - all 3 GV's of mine have had replacement rears. If its drags it will use more fuel. Any hot smell when you get out of the car? Do a search to look up the error codes. Cheers Nev

Yes if it's a 4th generation model. But not the 5th gen 2007 onwards

Ruddy good point that is Chrisp. It never occurred top me - as mine have all been petrol (LPG) I've never had the auxilliary heater privilige on cold days! But they get warm quickly I suppose.

Hi guys - it's easy when you know! Use the metal tab of the other buckle to press into the slot on the retained one (I would need my glasses and a torch to see it now) - out it comes!

Now then - if you do try that and it won't activate the starter motor, pull the relay instead. Just had a flash back on it being very clever!

Might sound daft but try a Chrysler main dealer - some parts are good money, I've had a few!!

Yep wierd isn't it?? They're not that rare!

While you checked the voltage at the sensors did you manage to check the condition of the speed sensor rings? One of mine was duff and did the same as yours are doing now. I pulled the fuse till I replaced the shaft with ring, and obvioulsy have full braking, but no anti lock function - way better to have brakes!!!

Very wierd that!!!! I don't know how but maybe it had something to do with the cruise control "cylinder" on the second cable, near the battery??

If that doesn't do it check the wires in the caterpillar track, I've soldered mine 3 times now. Plenty of vids on you tube!

Cheers Argee! Main dealers are not always daft money........not always

Good to hear you are a glutten for punishment pal! But the there is bugger all else that will do what these will, sadly hey!

Do it with 2 of you!! When I did mine and the alternator (noisy bearings) it took me longer to get the belt back on that swap the alternator - about 45 minutes!! I was at it from top and underneath repeatedly as it kept falling off again. I used a 1/2" drive socket strong arm to lever the tensioner. The problem I also had was the idler pulley bearing was wrong from all the auto factors, including the usually sound guys on ebay! Actual part number is 04792581AB. The rest was awkward but not a complete nightmare.

Didn't the proffesional who regassed it say anything??? Are you getting the clunk of the AC compressor clutch pulling in, and / or fans coming on? Did it work when they did it?