bignev

Just a tip, if you drain it and don't know the mixture strength in it - poor in antifreeze to 50% of the volume - so around 7.5 litres, then top up with water, so you will definitely ahve enough in there.

If it's the 2001 onwards version they come on with the rear heated screen. An added bonus for winter is the heater strip under the wipers on the windscreen, which comes on when the ventilation dial is directed up to the screen.

I'm pretty sure you need the red stuff. From the handbook - With "long life corrosion inhibitors (non HOAT - Hybrid Organic Additive Technology) Mine runs the red antifreeze from motor factors. I run it at 50% comcentration, (also as book). On the diesel fill it to the COLD mark. My petrol 3.3 takes 15.4 litres!!!!! Including the rear heater matrix. Which I thought was rather a lot. From completely drained of course which we are not going to acheive. The 2.5 diesel takes 13.8 litres. Sorry my handbook doesn't cover the 2.8 diesel.

On behalf on all the other guys apologies for the silence! I haven't done this job, but I'm surprised one of us hasn't! And Welcome to the club!

It's only a Halloween reference pal, and a "jokey" thing that Grand Voyagers mostly seem to need life putting back into them at some point! So sorry about any offence - none meant - and Welcome! Rear park sensors only make a noise when they go red, and shut off the radio at the same point.

Hello to the newbie! And welcome! Ho ho good one Gordy! In case it's real not a ghost: 1) Second hand one and a GOOD local AUTO locksmith can code it in - yes they can, see elsewhere on this site - had mine done. 2) Yes they need a disc - in the CD slot - don't bother it's going to be 9 years out of date use something else, you're phone or a Garmin / TomTom etc 3) But if the lights above the rear door work then it's the speaker And do yourself a favour - LPG it Good luck matey! Nev

Hi guys, I hope someone has, as my 2005 has the same problem, since we got it. But ours is possibly leaking in the floor area of the boot??? I really should have got round to finding it shouldn't I ?!

Ah ok. Not sounding good then - if it was "overcharging on tickover" then it would seem that there is some other source of the problem. In my old world experience, alternators never failed to an over rated output - they packed up as a winding went, so no output. However - stuff and technology move on.......

And we presume they checked the performance of the voltage regulator / rectifier?

No sense of adventure for these things me, I ended up with complete struts from Germany, £220 ish the pair.

Definitely something VERY VERY dodgy if "they are pumping diesel even when the engine isn't on" I would be rather sure to NOT start with injectors - something is telling them to squirt fuel! When obviously everything should be off. And just precisely what do they mean by engine not on, ignition to start but not cranked? If they were suirting all the time your engine would not start, or even crank over it would hydraulically lock. If they mean they are "weeping" fuel when it's off that's a different matter of course, yes probably new injectors if the solenoid is built into them - don't know on this one.

Me too!! But hey it's more work for the guys .............

As Andy says. OR - Swap that motor from the other door - if it works get one off ebay.

Only a bit of a guess from someone who drives a petrol version, but from experience with other cars, and reading what other guys help with on here, it may just need the tubes cleaning out, long term soot build up if we're lucky.

Nope nor mine, not getting signal through the system to the latch release

My 2005 is the same, and I have changed the handle electrical switch which is now fine. It should open with the handle yes. I can only guess it's something to do with the tailgate ecu, behind the panel on passenger side high up in boot area. I have swapped one but no joy.

Hi there! Oh dear yours is being very unfriendly hey! I only have a couple of suggestions on your list for you: !) wires under the seat - give them a gentle wiggle - mine did it 2) similarly on this - dodgy wiring 3) sliding door wire track has probably got broken wires that will need soldering, assuming the central locking still works on it - if not it's probably the locking actuator cos if it won't unlock the door won't motor open. 6) check your power steering fluid!! 7 and 8) sticking brake caliper - very very common - all 3 GV's of mine have had replacement rears. If its drags it will use more fuel. Any hot smell when you get out of the car? Do a search to look up the error codes. Cheers Nev

Yes if it's a 4th generation model. But not the 5th gen 2007 onwards

Ruddy good point that is Chrisp. It never occurred top me - as mine have all been petrol (LPG) I've never had the auxilliary heater privilige on cold days! But they get warm quickly I suppose.

Hi guys - it's easy when you know! Use the metal tab of the other buckle to press into the slot on the retained one (I would need my glasses and a torch to see it now) - out it comes!

Now then - if you do try that and it won't activate the starter motor, pull the relay instead. Just had a flash back on it being very clever!

Might sound daft but try a Chrysler main dealer - some parts are good money, I've had a few!!

Yep wierd isn't it?? They're not that rare!

While you checked the voltage at the sensors did you manage to check the condition of the speed sensor rings? One of mine was duff and did the same as yours are doing now. I pulled the fuse till I replaced the shaft with ring, and obvioulsy have full braking, but no anti lock function - way better to have brakes!!!

Very wierd that!!!! I don't know how but maybe it had something to do with the cruise control "cylinder" on the second cable, near the battery??