bignev

And of course knowingly releasing refrigerant gas is genuinely a criminal offence....... The AC system has a pressure switch will not run it (pull the compressor clutch in) if it's too low. Possibly best to get it degassed / reclaimed first then remove it, and pop back to have it regassed with the oil when the new one is on. It is very important the system doesn't get any crud in it, so be careful with a second hand unit from a breakers for the usual crap all over it with no holes plugged.

Hi there, yes it's quite possibly the actuator, if you have a look on here it was covered only recently, easy to test by using the one of the other door plugged into the loom of the suspect one, they are the same apart from the arm. I got one from the States off ebay with left and right arms.

Fair enough that is pal! I am pretty sure that my galaxy is very extreme in its optimism. A dead simple method to get actual values - when the fuel light comes on, reset the trip meter straight away. When you can, fill up with 45.4 litres - 10 gallons. Drive the car as usual !!!!!! When the fuel light comes on again see how many miles it's done and divide by 10, = mpg. Simple. And just repeat if you can be arsed or are interested enough, say if you are going on a reasonable drive. Yes sometimes the light may come on a bit early if the car is stopped on a slope for long enough, so not always going to be hyper right. If you have a steep drive that will cock it right up!!!

Just a question fellas, are you calculating fuel consumption or trusting the computer, which is going to be optimistic. My petrol / gas one is around 1 or 2 mpg up - quite a percentage round town that on these!!! At 16 ish in the cold. But on gas most of the time of course But my second car, a 2007 Galaxy, is a bit worse, reckoned 52 mpg, but 420 miles on 46 litres..........my maths says 42 mpg, lying toad Ford.

Or try a mobile AUTO locksmith, I had a second hand fob for the same year model coded into mine when the keyfob "specialists" auto elctrical guys said they couldn't do that, and it was a main dealer job.

Hello there! Yep. I reckon it is. If it's a mk4 then there is a remote for it.

Hi QinteQ - you've refreshed my memory - it's my older one that needed a code, the "new" one came up with a code request when on accessory (one back) key position then went away when i started it up

I've had mine disconnected (2005 3.3) for an overnight charge and the only thing it wanted was the radio code, so hopefully you have it!

YEP! ABS sensor ring corroded on mine, it can't see the segments properly so can't read the relative speed of wheels properly, so thinks they are skidding. Blood awful isn't it!! Virtually no brakes - because the "anti lock" turns them off for a bit to unlock the brakes = no brakes. A locked up wheel still brakes. The idea behind them was to enable drivers to be able to steer round an obstruction in an emergency braking situation. I am old enough to remember the original Ford (Scorpio I think) advert of it steering round a tractor pulling out of a gate. I am not a racing driver, and don't know anyone who would actually instinctively steer, rather than pushing the pedal into the floor and shout POO. You now have full on real brakes, I took months (MOT approach) to get round to it. But sadly you will have to sort it. You may find a brush off of crud will rectify it for a while.

Duct Tape! Put the filter in first, obviously.

Yep, they measured longer, with a tape, and when offered new to old.

I had 28" on all 3 of mine for years till I got some Bosch ones, then they hit each other, because they were 1/2" longer, been a pain in the back side ever since with any make. Even after moving round on the splines. So I also have one 26" wiper now.

Flipping good result, well done!

Welcome to the site! Yes the pricing especially from dealers can be vastly ranging, seen some for ridiculous money because they had "low" mileage. We've had 3 and not seen any rot, but ours are all 2002 / 2005. All our we're petrol, on LPG, so not had many of the running problems of the diesels. I changed the wheels on 2 of ours, porous on one and scabby on the other!! Try the PCD checker website as a backup. Yep the central locking motors can be a problem, bu they cost pennies to fix. If your family is growing and you are using buggies - you WILL notice the difference to the Grand, our twins buggy wouldn't fit in the shorter Voyager with the rear seats slid to the back. Handbrake not holding - yes got that, so I park it in "Park" it clunks when i comes out on hills, other than that not a worry for me. In 12 months and 11,000 miles a set of new 18" Accelera 245 50 PHI R wore by 1mm on the back from 8mm centre 7mm outers. No they are not the same depth all the way across I measured brand new ones.The fronts were down to 2mm so I replaced them, for more Accelera's. Top front suspension mounts - yep fairly common, but is that because we talk about it and other car sites don't as it's an easier / less expensive fix so just gets done? Wiper stalk problems, I've had the indicator not self cancelling on one of our cars. Got a brand new pattern unit recently for £28.00, and 20 minute to replace it. No problems as yet! with the lights. They are super things to drive, we also now have a 2007 Ford Galaxy Ghia with loads of toys, panoramic roof etc, but the Grand Voyager is a much nicer "posher" car (and in petrol / LPG silky smooth), and he Ford is far from fault free!!!!

Loads of people have had it on here pal, search the topics!!! You will find it!!! I replaced the whole strut assembly on my 3.3, not that expensive really, the springs were 10 years old!!!

I presume yours is the 2005 onwards version as mine? Earlier ones were illuminated as they came. Later ones aren't. You need to buy an assembly from an older car, as the pcb in these has connections and bulbs, then loop across 2 of the connections in the back, I have done this as it annoyed me having had 2 older models that lit up. I will try to have a look which wires it was, but may be weekend as I've got a jolly busy week coming! Sorry no idea about the bulbs in the heater / wiper switches.

I got a 160 amp alternator for the 3.3 petrol from West Lancs Auto Electrics last year. Around £140.00, which was not as cheap as some, but was fairly local to me if it went tits up!! It was on an exchange basis. They include the return courier service in the price. Absolutely first class experience from them for me. Check their website - you fill in the enquiry form, they email you a quote, anf then either phone them or order it online, I phoned them up, very good to speak to and know their stuff. And they are open Sundays - give them a try today! I'd be intersted to see if tehy are still as good. Can't suggest bearings for the diesel, my idler pulley ended up coming from the States! The tensioner assembly was from my local autofactors.

When you try to crank it, do the dash lights dim at all, and you get a clicking noise from the starter solenoid under the bonnet? If all is quiet it's not impossible the solenoid is sticking.

Sorry it's a bit late, but I hope you have had a look in the other Voyager sections at my replies on this, get a fob second hand and then a mobile auto locksmith can code it it, and cut you a key with transponder while he's there.

As you say more than likely fitted the wrong version at a screen change sometime. Yes it's ruddy useful too. So they discontinued it on the facelift models.......cheers. My old ones had it, new one doesn't. Like the 2 ligths on the vanity mirrors, reduced to 1 on newer cars. Or the really annoying one - backlit headlight switches on older cars - you guessed it, not on my 2005 facelift, or on the replacement unit I thought I was clever by ordering. I did eventually sort out those last 2 "improvements" though by getting hold of older parts, and finally figuring how to wire the switches so the lights dim and brighten the right way with the rocker for dash light dimmer.

Just a tip, if you drain it and don't know the mixture strength in it - poor in antifreeze to 50% of the volume - so around 7.5 litres, then top up with water, so you will definitely ahve enough in there.

If it's the 2001 onwards version they come on with the rear heated screen. An added bonus for winter is the heater strip under the wipers on the windscreen, which comes on when the ventilation dial is directed up to the screen.

I'm pretty sure you need the red stuff. From the handbook - With "long life corrosion inhibitors (non HOAT - Hybrid Organic Additive Technology) Mine runs the red antifreeze from motor factors. I run it at 50% comcentration, (also as book). On the diesel fill it to the COLD mark. My petrol 3.3 takes 15.4 litres!!!!! Including the rear heater matrix. Which I thought was rather a lot. From completely drained of course which we are not going to acheive. The 2.5 diesel takes 13.8 litres. Sorry my handbook doesn't cover the 2.8 diesel.

On behalf on all the other guys apologies for the silence! I haven't done this job, but I'm surprised one of us hasn't! And Welcome to the club!

It's only a Halloween reference pal, and a "jokey" thing that Grand Voyagers mostly seem to need life putting back into them at some point! So sorry about any offence - none meant - and Welcome! Rear park sensors only make a noise when they go red, and shut off the radio at the same point.