bignev

Awesome result that Andy!! And I've had a few special parts for my petrol from the Guys at Pentagon in Barnsley for very acceptable money last year. Just had a wallet attack on the rear shocks for the Stow n Go however.......... cheapest $370 each!!!!!! Nivomat self leveling apparently. So I will be trying my hand at new bushes!!!!

Hi Andy, I've just had a couple of Mopar bits from a company in Arizona, good price and blooming fast delivery, the V intake gasket ordered Thursday evening and arrived on Tuesday!! The sliding door complete wiring track was an arse though, got spanked for £30 import duty, first time it's happened to me. Anyway, try www.moparwholesaleparts.com they were very helpful and will check from your VIN number properly (hey QinteQ!) I just had a very quick look, and not too strangely on the year lookup they only list petrols - American site - but the flex plate for a 3.3 was $48 (yes Dollars)

Hiya, got to be honest I've never pulled the dipstick with the engine running, so wouldn't know if the crankcase pressure would push oil up it. I think Andy thought you meant halfway up the entire dipstick not halfway between marks. So if the oil level isn't going up don't sweat about it. Now as mine is petrol, I'd request a diesel owner to try the experiment, and if their's does it, it's not a fault, it's what it does?? I have a diesel Galaxy, and Master van, but it's not relevant really as it's not the same motor hey guys.

Hi Scott, I'd probably ask your local (proper) auto locksmith to programme a second hand fob to your car. I had one done, he needed a code form Chrysler, no problem. Unlike a shop who said it was a main dealer supply and job. No it wasn't. As you say there is supposed to be a way to learn a remote if you already have one, my car wouldn't play ball. I followed the instructions that we have a link to on here - somewhere some time ago.

Bumpers are different obviously but as far as I can see on my 2 (02 and 05) the metal panels are the same.

It certainly does. So another main dealer wrong - I presume they went from your reg, not just "oh ok a grand voyager"!!!!

Excellent! Yes they come forwards, with a wriggle to clear the bumper, but not too far before the wiring needs disconnecting. Very co-incidental both went so close together (hopefully) hey.

Don't forget your 10mm (I think, or is it 8mm?) socket to remove the 3 bolts to take out the headlights, only takes moments, and wriggle the lamp forward to undo the loom connector. Do your high beam bulbs still work? Low and high are all H7 bulbs

Hi Steve, The difficult to start when effectively cold would confirm lean running, but not sure why it wouldn't sort out the mixture, unless it's an O2 sensor out of plonk so it can't get it right. But slightly strange on the cutting out only on petrol because as far as I am aware the LPG systems still use the same sensors and piggy back to the LPG ECU. Also, not remotely as bad as tours, but mine sometimes takes a bit of turning over unless I have primed the fuel pump a couple of times when the weather is really cold.

I think it's : insert key, turn to ignition on but not start then off (back to key out but don't take it out position) 3 times fairly quickly so : insert - on - off - on - off - on At this point the odometer should do a check and list codes so have a pen ready Always remember that some codes could be ages old if they have not been cleared, I got an ABS code while trying to sort my 2002 3.3 out that was related to a sensor ring from a year before.

@@Woodie106 Hey there ! Just had a super brilliant flash of inspiration, you didn't get a code relating to the SKIM security key did you? Because the car will start and run for a couple of seconds if the wring key is used to do it - having had 2 GV's at the same time I know this to be true, I have done it and wondered what the chuff was going on - start up / stop, start again / stop, and repeat. So I went it to get the "spare" key to then see the right one for the car still in the house!!!! So just a question - is it actually the immobiliser circuit causing it? On the Vauxhall one, my mates Corsa years ago would refuse to start, turning over no problem. Root cause - eventually it was the transponder in the key having moved and the sensor ring not seeing it. My Movano van did the same at one point, thankfully I remembered what had gone on with his.

Mine is very slightly different - the closer you get the more yellow lights, then IN ADDITION the red lights (up to 2) come on as well and the beeper sounds solid, and the radio volume goes off at this point too. But of course you actually asked what is the parking sensor service. Not how they work. No idea what that is sorry!!!!

Jolly good to hear you've got a proper garage, not a "workshop" who you can deal with!! And yep blooming annoying it's happened.

I'm with you @@gordy - hear it far too often nowadays. All the technology but no old school skills or brains. Open the bugger up and find out, or take out the injectors or glow plugs and do a compression test, or SOMETHING!!!!!! My van had no fault codes but drove like a sack of poo from cold..... Nowt wrong with it then obviously!! Go on then drive it I dared them - oh yes it's awful isn't it - bloody hell yes!!! So an older chap, who used to work on cars in the good old days of points, distributors, condensers etc, said - "egr valve that Nev, gummed up and sticking" and it was. Ruddy new one needed "coding in" to a Renault Master. My line of work is heating and gas engineer, and the number of times I come across the phrase "wouldn't you be better off with a new one" pee's me right off. No they wouldn't - ruddy fix the damn thing, or don't claim you can repair them. Worst one recently was a conventional boiler supposedly knackered, young couple recently moved in, but when I go round it's still ok for hot water. So as I said to the young lady - well it's still working then isn't it, it's not dead. If it gets the water hot the boiler is fine. Two people had happily quoted her a new one. I had a look round at the system as to why the heating wasn't on, and eventually found the camouflaged thermostat, painted over, turned it up and hey what do you know hot rads 5 minutes later. Rocket scientist I must be. So much to the pleasure of my little girls I put a Bob the Builder sticker on my van, with the slogan "Can We Fix It? - Probably!" Anyway sorry I went off topic too. So commisserations woodie and Andy. Mind you I still have my 2002 3.3 going green on the drive behind my van, my old post from last year has just been brought up by someone else, and slightly new test info, so it may breath life again, yeah right.

Yep push back in.

Hiya QinteQ I genuinely hope you're right......... But with technology going the way it is, I won't bet my last Mars bar. It would be a doddle to write into the car software wouldn't it. And a piece of cake to transmit the info. We wouldn't even necessarily know it happened, after all our phones and computers update programmes and apps all the time, with or without our permission. Manufacturers could already have simply coded it in to update software wirelessly, but there's no money in that hey! Easy money making for the authorities, and on the grounds of ultimately safety of course. A constant "virtual" MOT test.......

I'll keep my fingers crossed it's a "simple" fix for you pal. Will be a bit of a wrench after 10 years hey!

yep as @@blackvelvet says check the obvious, I had a rear wheel very out of balance, tyre repairer couldn't be bothered, had no steering wheel shake but did have vibration through the whole car.

Yep bizarre, just like our old galaxy, no ideas at all why though...........

Yeah it's a lying toad, Like the one on my old 2007 Galaxy that said 52mpg...... 420 miles on 45.5 litres - 10 gallons - = 42mpg. Not too far out hey!!!!!!!!! My "new" also 2007 Galaxy Ghia is much more accurate, only reckons 46 instead of 41. At least the one on my 3.3 petrol doesn't care that it's pooe, it just tells you it's only 16 round town. Which is sadly right. But it's on gas. Anyway other than that, check you have a clean air filter, treat it to some form of injector cleaner, a fuel filter, and if it's not had one recently treat it to some fresh engine oil instead of the black syrup it will be trying to run round in. Check tyre pressures - they are heavy cars and this makes a ig difference. And put it in neutral and try pushing it to check the brakes aren't binding a little.

Good result pal!! What was the make of the kit for reference in future?

Looks (well sounds) like I'll be joining this club fellas, drove the car today and that noise I could almost hear has developed.......

Well, I FINALLY managed to get into the car long enough to look at a couple of niggles, including this one. Cheers @@gordy for your advice, spot on pal, put the tube back on the valve and it's like magic - water on the rear window, outside, not in the boot carpet!!! Now if I can get at it again in the next few days I will fit my new indicator / wiper stalk to cure the non - self cancelling function. I fitted a second hand one a while ago but the problem's back. Only had the stalk a couple of months.......

I reckon it's the rain water drain from the wiper mechanism and scuttle .

Hiya guys, On all 3 of ours I've ended up changing them at around the 80 to 85,000 miles mark. Of course I have no idea on 2 if they'd been done before, the third one had, I had the service invoices. So my guess would be that, unless you've had it from new, they have probably already been done at some time, so simply go on the remaining thickness as last time. My wife kills the pads on our petrol versions in only around 15,000 miles, I get nearly twice that in my 3.5 ton van (but manual gearbox with engine braking), won't listen to driving advice about get off the accelerator early.......... Pads are cheaper than divorce