bignev

Ruddy hell the Mrs is a learner in one of these! Brave woman. My wife loves ours, but she's been driving for rather a long time! And had some swift or big motors over the years.

Small consolation, but it is supposed to unlock the sliding and front doors of the side you want to open, so that's normal. The door pillar button doesn't unlock the lock, so that's normal too. On the wiring, did you do a resistance check as well as continuity? 1 strand of wire would give a reading, but I'm not sure if it would carry enough voltage to actuate the motor. I am guessing on this but the closing finish motor may be fed on another wire.

I used Blueprint from our local motor factors last August when I did my leads and coil, and NGK Iridium plugs, but mine was preventative.

Bit late but as it's just become applicable to me, they will probably have a yellow sticker on the inside bottom, mine were made by "Sachs", also known as Nivomat self levelling shocks. I got a set of bushes from the helpful guys at JeepChryslerParts in London, £40. The part number for the shocks on mine was 04743234AA

Hi pal, lots of guys have done these, I'd suggest re-posting this in the help section, I think AndyB has a video on his blog. I replaced the whole strut units, as I couldn't source springs for a petrol version (lighter), got them from Germany!

Hiya Ross, Mine is the multi changer dvd, but if the top unit won't take a disc I wonder if there's one stuck in there? Our multi changer needs the number button pressing, then when the light flashes it will take a disc. I'm not sure on the other parts of the cruise control, but as you say it's cable operated from the unit under there. And that lambda sensor was a git to do, I had to get my mate at the garage to do it, needed heat, then the "crackit" freezer, and his special tool to get it out, it's on the rear manifold and jolly difficult access - unless you take the wiper motor scuttle off which isn't as difficult as I first thought when I did a wiper motor years ago. But just in case, do re-post this on the Grand Voyager help section for other guys input. Cheers!

Aha. Just twigged you've presumably just bought the 2.8 2006 that was on another post recently? So I guess the doors didn't work when you picked it up? Which of course agrees with your comment that they may have both broken over time. One door on ours would motor open or closed until it flexed the cable to the crucial point then stop, so it could be when you are metering it out the cable is making a connection as it's broken inside but of course the insulation is holding it together. And do the central locking motor latches still work? Do check the little button on the overhead switch bank, it turns the doors and tailgate off. The two pin plug / sensor is a crash sensor, added on the facelift models. I've just tried mine unplugged and the doors still motor open. On the DVD, I have to press the headset picture on the remote control to put the screen on each time it's started.

Hi and welcome! Best to post this in the correct section for help, but a few hopeful quick ones- DVD - do you have the remote? On mine I have to press the "headset" picture to get the screen on. Cruise - are you pressing the "set" button too? Engine light - is it the heater on the lambda sensor that the fault code reads? I had this on one of mine, so it runs fine, the heater is for faster response on cold starts. good luck pal, Nev

Damn fine decision.

Ah good idea! And the company name says what it does hey! Like "Manchester vulcanising" they do proper tyre repairs, that others use the phrase "oh that can't be repaired", when they mean "WE can't repair that".

Welcome to the forum casey! Yep they can be a proper headache if they feel like it can't they!

Not really. I am a bit of a newcomer at only 5 years in, still got my first one, and our third too, middle one swapped for a stow n go. We also have a 2007 Galaxy, nice car, feels more "modern and car like" but no boot like the GV hey. And the sliding doors are so useful for kids and car parks.

That's the point, there isn't enough force to stop the force of the engine pushing / pulling a two ton car and rotating the studs in "oversize" holes. There is a shed load of sheer force on all car wheels, but normally no "shock" effect. The sheer load required to cut through 5 studs simultaneously is absolutely huge. To test it, foot on the brakes holding the pads and disc tight, a small amount of throttle and CRACK. Don't forget this isn't my first GV, it's my third, and we've been doing that parking manoeuvre for 5 years, reversing on to the drive, usually with the window down. But I heard it with the window up. And this car didn't do it before the hubs were changed.

You could be right, but you haven't heard that noise it makes! Once they are on, and bolted up I wouldn't think much will get into it to distort it, but rust is a strong if slow mover.

Ah yes, good point that is Gordy. My brain hadn't calculated that one properly. More concerned than I needed to be. And if my old hubs hadn't been binned that would be a relief of an option, but sadly too keen to get rid of scrap - tits. Never too old to learn hey, I know better than to bin stuff before the new has been proven, good reminder!

Yep they are same as the ones I had, not as per originals. Just see how much that stud moves in the disc hole!! Managed to land on one original, with shoulders obvioulsy. Got another on the way from a local "USA" parts "specialist", will let you know next week if it's correct, after I went in and showed them the OEM part, lets hope so hey.

Hi pal, Our 2002 3.3 used to do that, never bottomed why. Until the gearbox ecu had a marital (stopped talking) to the rest of the car it was fine.

Sorry Fellas put a wrong heading on the other post and can't figure how to delete it!! Has anyone replaced and sourced a correctly made front hub / bearing? I ask that way because I've had 2 different ones, including from Jeep Chrysler Parts, without the shouldered wheel stud. So the discs can move slightly on the stud, no matter how tight they are. There is a lot of force when you accelerate and brake! And it will probably do it every time. Mine is petrol so I heard it the first time (I hold my hands up my garage mate did the swap in a hurry for me) when parking it up at home, forward / reverse etc. Of course, over a long enough time, this could lead to failure, and then accidents, and why it happened legal cases, just because the after market industry doesn't realise the importance of that shoulder, rather shocking. It may be that the noise of the diesel engine will easily hide the clunk as it does it. Anyway some pictures on ebay clearly show them without the shoulder!!!! But JeepChryslerParts had a shoulder - but not when they arrived!!! The part number is 04641517AD and are available from Chrysler UK, but at £230 each was trying to avoid that. With import duty it's actually more from the States, bugger. This could be interesting.

SORRY GUYS PLEASE SEETHE OTHER POST PLEASE DON'T REPLY ON THIS ONE - IT SHOULD HAVE READ HUB IN THE TITLE!!! PLEASE USE THE OTHER ONE TILL I FIGURE OUT HOW TO DELETE IT!! CHEERS

I use a brilliant Plantronics ear piece!

hee hee no worries mate!

ooh, my petrol GV's have all revved to whatever my right foot told them too, in park or neutral.

Hi There. Mine is odd at times, you have to press the headphone button on the remote to bring the screen on.

Welcome Stephen! the good news you've (probably) come to the right place for info, the bad news is you'll probably need it at some point! But they are brilliant vehicles!

BLOODY AWESOME YOU GUYS!!!! Fantastic info some of us may be thankful for at some point hey! And sometimes it's actually nice to be wrong, in a good way, hey gordy!?