bignev

Yep @@Rich44 will be correct, there will be a damper actuator somewhere that isn't moving to redirect the air to the overhead vents.

If you swapped the ecu as well it MIGHT work, because the key transponder is programmed to the particular ecu. Or it might all decide to not want to play with each other when it's been out and disturbed. Personally I would probably call a mobile auto locksmith (not electrician) who can cut and make you a new key in probably 10 minutes.

Hi there, I've had hesitant starting at times, and I'm on LPG too, so I tried this - turn the key 3 or 4 times and hear the fuel pump prime then stop, to build up fuel pressure. Then for a few journeys run it on petrol to give the injectors some excercise. OR when it's time to switch off turn back to petrol BEFORE turning off so it stops on petrol, and if it stutters when you do that it confirms the theory: Because when you ran it last time it was on gas, and if the pressure in the fuel rail is seeping back then it hasn't got enough squirt to fire it when you crank.

I recently had 5 litres ATF+4 and a Wix filter from ebay, seller usaparts_uk, for £58. Does seem very odd to me about the gear change, mine "locks up" the torque converter around the 55 - 60 ish mph mark. But it doesn't have to rev that hard to change up with small throttle.

I had a quick look on the moparwholesaleparts.com site but couldn't see it as a separate item, just the whole pipe, doesn't mean you can't get it though obviously, just need a friendly guy at a dealer.

My 3.3 often won't hit top till at least 40mph on flat with very light throttle, not had a diesel. But I presume you can get it to change up on the flat if you back off the throttle slightly?

Welcome! Another gas convert! Yes I had something similar, my Startech stainless steel side tubes have lights in them and I guess one had get wet (short version). So - try removing the "IOD" fuse for half an hour, it reset mine. Do you have the radio code?! Or, onwards from there, battery negative terminal disconnect for half hour - but again beware radio codes !! etc!!

Yep I would reckon so. Mine has the quick fix claws with the knob inside, is yours the "U" bar clamps with fixings inside the box?

Hi there! And welcome. The roof bars on the Voyager work well, I use a Thule Motion 800 and can't tell it's on. I presume you would just use your roof box and clamp it the the Chrysler rails. The bars adjust very easily, flip up (easier said than done if they've not been moved for a while) the lever each side and slide along to where you want it - aligned with the tiny arrows though - and push (hard) back down.

Good you got it sorted, but that reference diagram in the picture is a bit rubbish isn't it? 2, 7 21, and 32 connections say "GND" now I would definitely have gone for ground or earth or negative on that terminal!

Well what a complete and utter shower of tools. "Main Stealers" as they are very un-affectionately referred to. Complete waste of time I know, but the ABS warning light was on wasn't it? Otherwise he's talking danglies if it's anything to do with it. I suppose part of their disgusting attitude is that you bought it elsewhere, but why go to them? I presume it's something to do with an aftermarket warranty? Pay the bastards with a CREDIT card then see how you feel when you calm down about taking it further.

Hiya pal, Check the other recent post on this very subject on here, sounds very similar to another regarding the sensor. However, if you know anyone with a little mechanical ability you can get round it very easily, put a Renault 4 in the top hose, but check on here for more details and andyb2000 has done a video of his.

Yep I'd guess 11 and 22 are the permanent live and ignition on live - anyones guess which is which though. I spotted in another post you look like you got it sorted, switch "on" the screen with the remote control, yes it's daft isn't it! Not the same on all models either as you've seen!

Blooming marvelous!

Well, if it was mine, I might get all uppity about it, and tell them if there are more faults found then feel free to get on and fix them if they are covered by their warranty. As you are fine with them not being fixed. And if they're not covered, then don't fix them thanks, as they sold you a car with these faults. And you only asked for the 2 other fault to be remedied. So get on with these ta. I personally think they are (sorry) taking the piss, that is a ridiculous figure for a diagnostic read, which I would feel there is no way you should pay for, because if it is necessary to read the codes to fix the cruise control then they just need to do it. It's not like they shouldn't have the software kit to do the job is it!!!! And if the 2 faults were there well within their given warranty period they should have just got on and fixed it. Or are they disputing these are covered?

Well, you learn something new every day!

Right then that would explain the rather strange behaviour! Blooming experts again hey, without attention to detail! Ruddy clowns. And you obviously did the stat job the full way - brave man. I hope you knew about the wiper scuttle being removed for access? Helps a lot with rear spark plugs on the petrols' too. And the dog looks a gorgeous fella ( or girl!)

Ah ok, could it be a delay in the valve clearances being taken up with oil pressure? A mate of mine has a 3.2 V6 Omega that does that quite loudly, sounds awful for about 30 seconds from cold then sweet as you like there after. I have a small rattle (not big like yours) which all I can finally come up with is the cam chain. It's silent on start up, gets a noise, goes silent, then after probably 10 seconds settles into a light rattle, which goes away if you raise the revs very slightly. Have you done an flush oil change? Either with flushing additive to the old oil or as I do using actual "flushing oil"? It might help clear any muck delaying the filling of the valves. However - it may also do more harm than good depending on how well the oil changes have been treated in the past. If it's really mucky don't use it first time, just do a good oil change (or 2).

Hi there, I've not come across anything like that in all the (many) times I have done oil and filter changes, on the three that I've had. All 3.3 petrols. The several different makes of filter have all been the same usual design, nothing special. Is the rattle new? I presume you don't give it any throttle when starting so it is at idle speed?

Hiya, if when you do the above, with the engine running or not, without using the handbrake, then it is completely normal. The way the "P" position works is a mechanical "pawl" or plunger into a "toothed slot" inside the gearbox, and there will be a little play, so the car will move slightly. However, if you mean that the engine / car shake when you turn it off, I presume it might be "running on" after the ignition is killed, but no idea why the car would move, it shouldn't.

Hi there! Do you have 2 fobs, and if so is it the same for both - just to confirm it's the alarm and not an intermittent signal sending fault on the remote, or week fob battery at times?

Oooh doesn't sound too good. But it was ok when you had the coolant changed, how long ago was that? I don't know where the stat is on the 08 model, but the previous is a swine to get at, I have heard! So the super method is to fit a Renault 4 one in the coolant hose to the rad. See Andy Browns video link on this forum somewhere for the job he did on his. I'm a bit confused what he means by "nowhere to put the temp sensor" as the stat fits in a housing so a little lost why there could be a problem. If yours came in a housing, why not just use the stat from it? It may not be possible of course. And he put the old "sludged" coolant back in?????? WHAT? However, usually there will also be milky white cack in the oil if the head gasket goes, oil goes into the coolant also coolant gets into the oil. Visible through the oil filler or possibly on the dip stick. @@andyb2000 and @@QinteQ I believe you guys are up that neck of the woods?

Hey @@Semmysonic how did the Passat do in the collision?

I doubt very much it would even turn over with 20mm end float on the "crankshaft", it would be f#'ked out of it's brains, engine oil would pour through the gap into the bell housing to start with. Drowning the clutch. But - as you typed end float then clearence and "camshaft", what did they say EXACTLY please? If there is any difference before / after on the clearance of the gearbox shaft to crankshaft surely they haven't put something back together correctly. And I will add I haven't ever done a clutch in a car on my own.

I bought the rear heater and AC pipe set for our 2005 Stow n Go a couple of years ago from a Main dealer in Barnsley, Pentagon. The temp gauge may be related to a stuck thermostat, very common on the previous version diesel with the same engine.