bignev

My LPG TECH system with 1 tank was £1200, in 2012, and in 2015 the BRC with 2 tanks was £1800. As I said a while ago in this post the cheap one has been absolutely fine. And the BRC didn't turn out to run any more mpg. Both at Panache in Ardwick Manchester, bit far for you sadly I realise.

With the spare at the back it would be the standard seats, albeit the spare was underneath, I presume modded to possibly stand a chance of being done by someone with disability, but the stow n go has it under and between the front seats - daft. The petrol tank is approx 80 litres.

I've heard of the company, when I was looking at our first one. I would speak to the guys they told you about in Bristol first, as if it's not registered most insurance companies will fairly enough not cover it, I had that problem as on our first conversion putting it on the register got missed, but the guys did it while I was stood there when I popped in to have a chat about it. Is yours a standard seat version, not stow n go? My 1st one is standard and has an 80 litre tank under at the back where the spare was. The 2nd is stow n go with one underneath in place of the spare, and one in the store where the left middle seat would like to go, still totallng 80 litres. But for some reason this with 2 tanks is a rather slow filler. Some guys get more, but we usually get over 200 miles to a fill.

Hi Kelvin, I should have also asked some background, have you had it long? In additton to Andy's comments, could a previous owner have NOT used the ATF+4 mopar stuff? And now its effects are coming out?

:-)) cracker!

No worries you're welcome, and get on with the LPG! Break even on ours was about 10,000 miles on the £1500 for the BRC kit

I reckon either will be "brilliant" compared with halogen originals!

Bit of a guess but still sounds like a fluid temperature related problem, how mucky was the old stuff? If it was really bad it may need doing again, as it's a long way from a full change we can do by dropping the filter pan off.

HID's, any time now when it goes dark you will be amazed! Mine are daylight 4000k, which did you opt for?

Hee hee yes it's a bit of a bugger isn't it? Really can't think why they thought it was a good idea to change it to not illuminated, after 2 that were it really bugged me.

Hi pal, I'd have thought taking the wiper scuttle off would give the much better access for the job? My inlet manifold has been off twice to try to cure a water weep further down in the V bank, the top section has 6 separate oval rubber seals, mine came from Spain via ebay!

Looks like this! And mind those metal clips, only two on mine now :-)

Okey dokey then - @robbie2red With the wiring connector fastening clip to the left,looking down on the wires from the car, link the nearest left (black with yellow stripe) and second nearest right wires. Yes, on the newer car connector there is no outgoing wire in the right terminal. It's easier if you release the plastic panel below it first, then attempt to reach up and under to release the 4 metal clips that hold the switch assembly in.

Okey dokey! It may probably be weekend, as I'm not sure what time I'll be home tomorrow. Won't take long once I get to it.

Sadly Andy's probably right, unless you've attacked one (and I haven't) they seem to be rather too ruddy complex. Still reckon it's worth a phone call though as their number is on the add, and see what your gut feeling is when you mention the amp etc, or if they seem like they are simply blagging it!

it would be well worth a phone call, and if they confirm it works, with the steering wheel adapter too if you want it, all you've got to lose is some time fitting it as you can always send it back if it doesn't work hey! Well and the return postage.

Well absolutely super, good stuff! And how strange too! But ruddy marvelous it's fixed. I wonder if that might sort my older models TCM / PCM communication problem........ Hmmm food for thought.

What's the problem with it? If it isn't doing it you may need simply to remove the IOD fuse for half hour to get the BCM to reset? On a GV anyway! Better to post in the technical help section of your relevant vehicle - by the way what car is it?

No worries pal! I will try to take a picture of the wiring loop you need to put in to make it light up. The terminals are different on the 2 models of switch, but you only need one wire link between 2 terminals, took a bit of experimenting but I got there!

Just like this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chrysler-Voyager-Headlight-Control-Switch-Mirrors/282700503272?hash=item41d24358e8:g:6fwAAOSw~rpZPGHV or this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2001-Chrysler-Grand-Voyager-Headlight-Headlamp-Foglight-Mirror-Control-Switch/302506754291?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D49129%26meid%3Db41b4000dbbc49268c8910712256a158%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D401315834313&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Not got a part number, but within a couple of days I should be able to prise it out and get it while the Mrs isn't out in it. Or I will possibly yank it from our pain in the arse other one, but the colour on that is beige not black. So it might be a different part number, as the other is black, and some are grey of course. If the seller shows a pic of the back they are obvious if the bulbs are in, white plastic instead of holes! They are from 2001 to 2005, but beware NOT the facelift model, some appeared in 2004!! Just remembered the early ones are made in Mexico - it says so on it. However don't know for sure about the later ones ..........

Hey up Robbie! That's correct this year does not have illuminated headlight switch - nuts isn't it! If you can find an old model version, as I did, then it can be sorted to work. The wiring loom is different (I had both cars to compare side by side) so you need to loop a wire from one to an unused one on the newer version. Make sure it comes with the holders and bulbs though! If you get one I'll try to find time to take mine out and refresh the knowledge which wires it is. I also swapped the sun visors because the old ones have 2 dimmable lights, and a pull out shade for the centre for sun glare.

Hiya pal, I believe it's called a sinch motor. Located at the back of the door, it turns the catch on the door to pull in on the hook on the body. And only an idea how it makes it happen. But would guess it could be a replacement - however I get the feeling that @@andyb2000 won't be defeated so easily hey!!!! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chrysler-voyager-RH-power-sliding-rear-door-latch-with-locking-sinch-motors/253222764672?hash=item3af540c080:g:-S4AAOSwvUlWr1Az or https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chrysler-Grand-Voyager-Drivers-Motorised-Auto-Opening-Sliding-Door-Lock-01-07/263282489529?hash=item3d4cdbf8b9:g:tqgAAOSwQM9UY9wz But for that money........

The unit prises out from the dash, removing the lower panel beneath it may help get your hands behind it to get at the clips. When I swapped ours for an earlier illuminated one (minor wiring mods required) I just got frustrated with it and made it come out from the front.

As the turbo shaft floats on a pressurised film of oil, was the oil return pipe also checked it's clean? If it can't get out it won't go in. And hopefully the car wasn't revved when starting it up for the first time after changing it. I don't know if it's possible on these but priming with oil before refitting is a good idea, even if some or even most of it spills out as it is put on.