bignev

Hiya @@gordy, yep just for them there sooty diesels, Diesel Particulate Filter, fricking pest. My Mazda 6 2.0 that had a 32 mile each way commute STILL cocked up. I'm rather glad my van is just a teeny but too old for one, the last of the Euro 3 models. And the code could apparently be, possibly, too rich a mixture, if the sensor and wiring are good. The high voltage (which is still very low - less than 1 volt) is caused by the mixture! I didn't know that - found it on a trouble shooting site: http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/chrysler/3.9L-5.2L-5.9L/how-to-test-code-P0132-page-1 And yes it's a bit of a bigger engine than we get! So may not be completely applicable to this - beware!

Hi there! Is it on petrol and gas it does it, or just gas? At 5 years old, depending on miles too of course, the gas injectors may be wearing out. The installer of our first system said the cheaper ones would quite possibly start to go off after around 25,000 miles. But in fact that one is still fine on ours, yet! I know you had it serviced, but that may not show up just yet.

Mine too! (yes, I know, mines petrol!!) Marked up for the fuel pump.

Oh yes, that's how mine started........

Welcome! Try it in the technical help sections- probably better results!

Shame! I guess you tried running the headlights angled down a bit? I've not had problems with our 05 annoying people, just checking above it's well over 2 years now since I did them!! I run them on my Renault Master as well. But people don't notice the high beam flash them - or is that because they can't believe a van is letting them out or accross??? :-) You can see the high beam flash - I've checked!!!!!!

Yes the bumper is slightly different to accomodate the bottom bump on the later facelift versions. After I did the headlight lens restorer job on both my 05 and 02 models there wasn't really anything in it - till I put HID's in the 05 of course! I don't have a real clue why those LED's did the weird and wonderful trick to praneetsrivastav' s car, most odd. I presume that's why you were suggesting the extra earths to combat that?

Hi there! I got lucky and found a whole original new Mopar regulator assembly when mine packed up, it was a little tricky but not at all a nightmare. And I remembered to tape up the glass to hold it while I took it apart!

Yes, a year or so ago I got a set of LZTR5AIX - 13 fairly cheap ish. They were also in in before I changed them, didn't know that till after. And - ooops - just double checked and the gap on them is 1.0 to 1.1mm

Oh gosh! Nope not had that problem...... yet! hee hee. Good move to remove the wiper box,hell of a bloody thrutch with it on! Just had a quick look on the NGK site and it looks like their iridium ones are 1.3mm gap, so depends which you have - could be that big hey!

Ah good stuff mate. If the system is a few years old that diaphragm could be getting a little "stretched", it happens frequently on central heating boilers, a regular source of repair work for me on some models! Some have a hot water one, pump flow one, and the fan "air pressure switch" also has one. But good yours is improved!!

I can't actually definitely confirm on the GV, but most have a separate sensor ring, but of course it would be the wrong key / transponder anyway. If you remove the steering column cowl and trim below you should hopefully be able to get to the connector plug to check voltage in and out

Hi mate, from your other post if the motor for the mechanism still works, I'd suggest the simplest route would be a second hand unit, I got one from the usual suspects ebay when I was trying to sort ours for about £40, albeit a couple of years ago now.

Or ignition key barrel? It wouldn't answer the immobiliser point though, has the transponder reader ring slipped behind the plastic cowling, that would enable it to switch everything on but not run, I tried to start one of ours once with the key to the other, but differed as it ran for a second or so then shut down.

:-) I'll have a look over there!

Hi there and welcome pal! As I said on the newbie post, I had one that did that too.never got it fully sorted. Is there power to the motor? Not easy to get at, huge sections of plastic trim to remove! They have a control module of their own too, yet another in the car, which has then pinch sensors in the door rubbers, and resistance sensors, just to add to the fun! Oh and you've put this in the wrong year section hee hee

Oh bugger! The red light is the immobiliser circuit, I guess you have tried leaving the key in the ignition position for 20 to 30 seconds for it to recognise it? Do you have a spare key to try? Also try the proverbial "switching it off and on again" attempt, battery negative lead off for 20 minutes or more, rather than just the fuse out, then see if it accepts the transponder in the key this time? You may need the radio code after this. Oh and try posting this on the technical help section, most likely get the diesel drivers input too when it's spotted!

Hi there and welcome to the club! Post it in the technical help section pal, you'll get us on it then, I had one go like that and never bottomed it!

Hiya, Try leaving the donor car connected for at least a good 10 minutes with the engine running - my own personal experience on my older 3.3 petrol! Even if it's showing 12.7 volts or over it can still not have enough "guts" to turn it over. I'm no battery construction expert but that can happen when a plate fails, when you try to engage a heavy load it fails you. Volts aren't amps - they do the cranking over. And amps are "created" by the size of the lead plate content.

When I did mine they were bolts, long ones! Top and bottom.

Hey Andy, just an outside guess, along your lines of thinking, but is it possible to check for a partially blocked fuel feed line? Or is it possible for the other fuel pump to be under delivering? I don't know how they work on these engines. On our 1.8 diesel Galaxy, after a fuel filter change, located in the engine bay, there isn't a hope in hell of the fuel pump getting it to run again. Yes I fill the canister and bleed the air from the top. It has to be pulled through with a vac pump attached to the fuel line on the pump at the front of the engine, as it has no electric lift pump or hand primer pump.

Hi guys, i've not had this problem as yet, anything I can think of is only a guess, Is it when you are a little low on gas so not as much pressure, but they should work down to nearly empty because the stored pressure is way higher than the working delivery pressure, so if it was related it would be the pressure regulator from the tank to the front end, not allowing enough flow. (as there isn't a pump - it works on the pressure of the gas pushing it through, same as a house gas system principle) or the vacuum hose to the evaporator from the inlet manifold, leading it to mis read the suction pressure, but as semmysonic says, lpg tech guys should be able to read why it does it if they take it out rigged up to their kit.

Hi Guys! Hope you all have a very Merry Christmas! All the best Nev

hey up @@BigDaddy this post is 2 years old - someone hijacked it and brought it to the front!

WTF !! Come on site moderators- delete garbage like this, and those other types from russia too in the classified!