bignev

Yep, for me personally, the 19 and 20's just look too big, but obviously it's personal taste. The 17's look really good, but the 18's just seem to be a good ratio of wheel to tyre as well. The tyres actually look hugely wide off the car! But right in relation to the size of the car when on it. I've got one of the old first set hung on a rope in the garden as a swing for my girls, and adult (usually blokes) visitors ask "what's that off!" and are a bit surprised it's the Voyager out front!!

For the fobs, you can buy second hand units and they can then be coded into the car, by a good quality auto locksmith. The same guy should be able to cut and code the key at the same time.

Ruddy hell fella, a kind of lucky escape, as you say it would have trashed lots of things at speed!

I've had 17's on one, and 18's on our current. These wear 245 45 18, and look in proportion to the car, from the side, and rear view. And the speedo reading has become spot on, confirmed by both our sat navs and roadside speed advisory signs. When I see the standard size wheels on others I can't help thinking they look skinny for the car, although they aren't.

Hi there, Hmmm, my gut feeling is they are absolutely totally taking the piss with those prices!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The 300C guys will undoubtedly give advice on the suspension, but from reading on here they are quite likely possibly in need of replacement, but not at their prices!

On mine floor to inside centre of wheel arch is 29"

Yep you're quite right. It was surprising mine didn't have the camber bolts, to everyone. I'll stick a measure on mine when I get home later.

Yep I share your experience on this. After a pair of complete stuts 2 places couldn't get them right. I had a word with a smaller local tyre guy who checked it, said it was only a tiny bit out and wouldn't usually say it needed touching (but steering not straight when driving straight) So after I said I appreciated his honesty but would like to pay him to try, he got a little bit on it and so far (6 months or so) so good. Done with the tiny amount of play in the slot in the bottom of the strut.

Hey @@GavinG what size tyres are fitted? Mine were wrong when I got it, too low a profile - tyre bays!!!!!!!!!! On a previous Ford Galaxy, all 4 tyres were different, 3 wrong profile (aspect ratio, proportion of width giving height) - 60 instead of 65 - and 3 were rotating the wrong way. Awesome.

Too steep for me, on that mileage, running on ethanol, with that engine, at that spec. With no new parts or service history. Oh no not those sensors they are a git to change and cost a fortune. Come on fella someone might be interested, or don't you actually really want to sell it.

It could also be the bushes in the shock absorber mounts. Jack it up and it should be fairly easy to see as it rises up if the bolt stays remotely central or pulls from top to bottom on its way up. I did mine last year, they were cream crackered!!! But as it had self levelling type, I did the bushes not the complete shocks, hundreds cheaper!!

Hi there, do you have the same tyres front and rear? A mis match can make the road holding "interesting". And not too old, or low tread depth - I mean nowhere near the legal minimum, on winter type tyres it makes a bigger difference as I am lead to believe to do their job they are supposed to be binned at a much deeper tread. It makes sense - shifting water / snow / mud takes depth. I know lots of people have no clue what tyres are on their cars, all 4 different, and there fine, but then some people turn radios up to make the noises go away too....... Or a mate of mine who couldn't feel a mis-fire on a 2 cylinder 2 stroke motorcycle????? Are your rear shocks ok? Not bouncing around, as that will cause lack of road holding and adhesion too.

If the problem is like my 2001, 3.3, then it drives fine but only in second gear, will do about 40mph, I'd guess? Yes the gearboxes are the 41TE through all the 2001 up to 2007 shape change. The speedometer is read from the output shaft sensor, which you've replaced hey Jason. Mine did this a couple of years ago, but the code was "no communication TCM to PCM" Highly unlikely to be a gearbox if it still drives smoothly, albeit in one gear, and reverse, as the solenoids do the gear change and are told what to do by the Transmission Control Module. Of course until this scenario happens when the second and reverse still select as they are a manual movement. Are they quite abrupt when going into these gears Jason? And no, I never got mine sorted. Tried extra earths on the gearbox, unwrapping the wiring underneath in front of the gearbox as there is a common corrosion fault in there, tracing and belling out the wiring between the 2 units TCM under the passenger wheel arch / PCM in front of the fuse & relay box. I was going to try a 2nd hand fuse box in case it was the circuitry in that but didn't come across a matching one cheap.

Ah so that's the accurate detail! Now the "pending codes" makes sense on some stuff, I presume if a minor incident happens, it's stored for a bit then if it doesn't happen again in "x" number of starts it gets pinged out of the memory.

Er, just a thought, but don't the codes stay in the memory unless they are cleared? Does it run fine now? If so it could now be ok but still showing history codes. My abs sensor ring did exactly that. On all 3 of my 3.3 petrols the radiator cooling fan comes on before it's up to temp, possibly say 1/4 mark, then off, then settles to an expected pattern - if it's ruddy hot, or the AC is on, it runs.

Yep that's a big relief, thought something nasty had happened!!

Hi there and welcome! Are the segmented rings in good condition? Mine corroded and threw up brake and abs faults. So I pulled the fuse for a while to get proper brakes back. But my Mrs had also drowned the ABS unit by entertaining the kids driving through puddles......... It dried out eventually.

Don't forget guys - the computer tells lies! Usually 2 to 3 on my 3.3. My Ford Galaxy to the tune of 10mpg - 42 real but 52 on the display, recently 30 real and 38 on the display. In the UK -when the fuel light comes on reset the trip, try 45.4 litres in, 10 gallons in old money, then when the fuel light raises it's head again divide those miles by 10 gallons.

3.3 2005 16 town work, 25 on a good steady run (Wales or Scotland from Manchester)

Quite possibly a bit late, if you check the dates on the other posts!

Must be no dash display

Hi there - you actually only need the top mount bushes for your rear shocks, but depends how cheap you can get a pair of full shocks I suppose. i got bushes for my GV for £40 for top and bottom both sides, and because it's got the Nivomat (Sachs) self levelling suspension shocks it was worth taking them off to re-bush them, rather than £600 a pair.......... Yes, really!!!!!

Are all the gear position indicator boxes lit up? Hopefully not, never sorted out my 2002 3.3.

Hi guys, my opinion would be, as Mike said, a problem in the relays and fuse area shorting out, as confirmed by #6 post, and the alarm back up battery could be dead of course, mine is. Does yours still have one of the ecu boxes under the passenger wheel arch liner? Lovely spot hey!!! Not normally a problem, until it is...! My 2002 petrol has the TCM under there, the 05 petrol is totally different but still in the same place!

Hmm, knowing Chrysler, (in fairness not just them) and the other guys can confirm, different fuel fliters' location on the same year diesels, and other stuff, I would get a tape measure and get the best dimension of it the best you can and compare those numbers with the ones for sale. What confirmed it for my 2002 petrol was the extra mounting lugs I saw - thankfully lots of sellers on ebay put pics and drawings on too - no I don't remember exactly, it was 4 years ago