bignev

And the pcd and offset is the same as a 2005 Kia Sedona! Took the nice 17" ones off my 2002 before it went to the dismantlers and put them on the Kia.

Ah okey dokey not seen that one on any of mine. Even stranger for a power drain then - well done tracking that!

Good job pal! On mine that would be the control for the folding in / out door mirrors, to be auto fold in when ignition off, or left out all the time.

Well gentlemen, it was a sad day of defeat, it went to the dismantlers, at least, rather than the scrap men.

Well gentlemen, it was a sad day of defeat, it went to the dismantlers, at least, rather than the scrap men.

These have now gone from me - via my scrap man, worth a couple of quid because they were so heavy!

HIYA GUYS!!! Go on spread the word, last offer before I call the local car collection man! If you want pics PM me, as I can't get a low enough resolution photo to get under the 2mb limit. £250

Hi there and hello! Pretty much all new (20 years or more!!!) will run the same fridge gas yep. So yes it does run R134a, as does mine. It would usually have an information label on the cross member under the bonnet too.

Oh just a bit of info chaps, the body of the diesel steering pump is the same - I've had both on my bench - but with a different pulley and inlet pipe connection. The pipe is easy enough to get off and swap, but the pulley is a completely different matter - ruddy impossible without the correct tools. Rock Auto USA will sell you the body for a lot less than we can get them over here!!

Oh yes terribly cynical....... You sound just like me! Let's hope they are better men than that. As coincidence has it I have had the misfortune to be working on mine this last couple of weeks. Firstly a leaky water pump,as it turned out not too bad a job at all. Then the power steering pump, new from Rock Auto USA £81 with pulley, delivered in 4 days, super! Preventative this, a bit grumbly when turning at low speed. I obviously took the wiper scuttle off which made it an OK access job. Also exposed the AC expansion valve at that point - piece of cake to get at, passenger side UK on bulkhead, higher than it looks in pictures! Then a couple I've been putting off since I did the transmission fluid & filter last year - do it again as it obviously hadn't been done for a long time! And the solenoid pack as well, as it seemed a tiny bit buzzy going into reverse and drive. So the latter was an arse, made a little easier with the battery tray and coolant bottle out of the way. Rather annoying as it doesn't seem much different. Fluid easy enough as long as you're prepared for it lashing out when the gasket seal let's go!!!

Right guys, fed up of it being here now, £250 and it's yours!

Drat. Yes it cured mine.

Hi There! It could be one of the wierd things that these cars do when they feel like it, possibly a coincidence.......... Mine has done the no rear lights trick to me. In the fuse box under the bonnet is a "IOD" fuse, Ignition Off Draw, try pulling it out for half an hour to reset the body control module. Or disconnect the negative lead from the battery.

You're most welcome sir! Do you have any other car AC guys near to you? For more informed second opinion!

Hiya Keith, not sure where on the diesel the valve is located, on the petrol it is on the bulk head low down as the AC pipes pass through it to the evaporator coil in the car, but I would have to think that it's VERY VERY unlikely the engine has really got to be dropped to get at it. And from my knowledge of air conditioning and refrigeration, it would not be screeching, that sounds like a compressor fault, but if it had lost gas the pressure switch should have prevented it from pulling in the magnetic clutch pulley on the compressor. A failed valve usually manifests in either icing up of the evaporator coil (in the car) - too much cooling, or not enough cooling. It essentially very cleverly meters the correct flow of refrigerant to the coil. And they can fail if the dryer isn't doing it's job properly. Not sure how it could damage the compressor, I'm not THAT good :-) If it took a while to "pull down to zero" or to get to a vacuum state, then there is a leak. And if the pressure started to go up - there is a leak because if there wasn't it would stay at the vacuum it's pulled down to. It should not take anything like 45 minutes to get to the required negative pressure. On commercial that is done because moisture will boil off at negative pressures, and we don't want moisture in the fridge gas. I've just had a quick look on the Town & Country, and there are various U.S. sites offering to do that job for between $100 and $400, yes Dollars, at your place of work or at home - so I don't reckon they're dropping the engine, do you? Sounds like these guys, sadly, are talking poo. And it actually is as you suspected the compressor.

Hiya @Bexb8188 any progress on your car? Has it - so far - been behaving itself since the last event and fix?

Ah ok then - a correction to my statement in #4 - if the temp sensor is on the block then the comments regarding the water cooling off too quickly in the rad are wrong, they're valid if the sensor for the fans was on the rad! My apologies on that one. So a bit more detail from you KJT - can you drive it in warm weather as long as you're not stuck in traffic? So the car moving creates enough airflow for cooling? So basically normal operation.

Hi there!! And welcome! My 3.3 petrol Grand Voyager is around 800, our Sedona 2.9 diesel is 790rpm, and my 2.5 diesel van (actual van not mini van) is 750 ish!

Hiya pal! Better off on the technical help "vehicle assistance" areas, but just to get started was it serviced recently with a new fuel filter - dead common for air leaks on the seal - SO - if it was, was that the first time you needed to give it a good boot, that could be a starting point. As you can see mine's a petrol, but I'm on here a lot and read plenty. the diesel boys will be more detailed, but do bung it on the other section to get their interest!

OK it's on the Autotrader now with a few pics, at a price I can be kicked well down on :- ) £400 ??

Hi pal, not sure, but it wouldn't have been till well into the shape change after 2008 / 9, so you should be safe!!

Because you didn't say you had a new rad. And it's more than a little common occurance on here. The fans run to put air over the Air Con evaporator coil at the front, and correctly they don't necessarily stay on full time, depending on air temps. So they will run more or less straight away And most diesels won't get up to temp for ages on idle let alone overheat, none of mine ever have, but my GV is a petrol. But they will get warmer faster with the AC on as it puts warmer air from the evaporator coil over the rad. But if it's getting too hot then it isn't rejecting the heat somehow. So either the big thing at the front that gets cooled by the airflow by the car moving or fans isn't able to do its job, or there is a lack of flow of water through it, coming back to either a blockage in the cooling system (in your case front biased not interior) which is why I suggested flushing it clear, or a blocked rad (not if it's new), or an air lock which I believe on the diesels isn't likely they vent to the expansion bottle, or - very very very rare but one of our guys has had it - the thermostat stuck shut, they are designed to fail open which is why in winter they never get above 1/4 on the temp gauge, but, and this is a guess, if yours is stuck shut, then in winter or cooler weather when you are using the heaters you could be possibly taking just enough heat to balance the engine temp. or the water pump not performing. When I got ours, the impeller was knackered on it, so good job I had already decided to fit a new one !!! So then - if your fans only come on for a short time, assuming (oh very dangerous with these) that other things are doing what they should, that would mean the temp at the sensor is dropping quickly, meaning not much water passing through the rad so it is able to be cooled off quickly. OK diesel guys - your turn for input fellas

Sounds quite like another blocked rad, and maybe part of the system too. But do try flushing the coolant through first, hose in expansion bottle and bottom hose loosened so it can pour out, check the colour and state of it too, obviously.

Hi there and welcome! I've twigged what car your driving, 300C from the newbie section, but I'd suggest popping the question on the tech help section. I'd answer but I don't know for yours, on the GV you can get a stub shaft easily. Quite cheap.

Hiya! Definitely a good plan, and also give it the system a flush out with a hose pipe, i would do it just before you swap the rad personnally. There is a good method on the forum from Qinteq somwhere, as I had a petrol not totally familiar, but essentially hose in the header tank, engine running to pump it round, and bottom rad hose partly of for it to escape and rinse through the system. Before that though, as you say, check the rad fans run, but should not be relevant at 70mph.