bignev

if they're the older type they press downwards on the inner side of the release flap, then slide forward to the front and come out after removing the plastic trim. If its newer then they unscrew conventionally to loosen. Mine were a very stiff fit, and only move them a little bit at a time along the slide, alternating the sides.

Bloody expensive that, you must be in central London. Dread to think how much they would have charged to do the timing belt etc!!!!!!!!!!!!

Well then, that's interesting! Fluid obviously flows downwards with gravity, just not normally to our advantage! Or how we would like it to when working on our cars hey! Bite you on the arse? Probably, it's a Grand Voyager, mines a ruddy ungrateful sod!

ooh dear, I accept the criticism for my lack of finite detail. So, I've been out to ours for a memory refresh. As you say - push bottom of glass inward, fingers on glass, thumbs on top of plastic housing, prise / slide up, and off we go.

Pretty respectable that! Helped along a lot by the good length of run! Excellent!

You're very welcome!

Good money that is pal ! I shall look out for the update!

Hi there and welcome! Usually better in the vehicle assistance sections, gets faster response! I'm making a presumption it's a diesel, the petrol fuel filter is on the tank and an absolute pain to do, have to drop the tank down slightly. If it won't turn over at all then something else has been disturbed, if it's related to the fuel filter then it would turn over but not start. Check battery voltage, was it left on listening to the radio perhaps? Or a wire leading to the starter motor?

I think it may be the water pipe to the oil cooler, but I'm not a diesel owner so can't look at mine for reference!

Hi there! Try www.wheelfitment.eu should hopefully give you the information you need!

Always a good thing is new fluid, the filters are readily available on ebay, as is (usually - but it's expensive) the ATF+4. Just a thought for an experiment, firstly just simply don't touch the brakes going into drive from neutral. secondly chock the front wheels really well so you don't need to touch the brakes from neutral to drive, parked facing into a kerb perhaps, then see if it makes the noise. If it doesn't - it's brake related. Ours makes a light almost buzzing noise going into either drive or reverse, thought it was solenoid pack, so as I managed to get a new one from the States relatively cheaply I changed it along with fluid and filter. Made no ruddy difference!!!

i did mine on the drive in a couple of hours, not rushing, including taking the expansion bottle (3.3 petrol) and battery out of the way for much better access.

Hope that beer was nice Gordy! Yes it seems to be that if they don't DOUBLE check it, and that's hard work and mither and in fairness shouldn't be necessary, then it will be a teeny bit out. From the 2 computer prints, after 1st adjustment, then back on so should be the same, they were quite different. Camber went from (in degrees) 0.1 / 0.6 L/R to 0.2 / 0.5, then back to 0.1 / 0.6 at second adjustment. Tracking went (in mm) 0.5 / 0.4 to 0.8 / 1.3, then 0.9 / 0.6 at second adjustment. What's very strange is that the rear changed too...... Tracking not camber..... From outside of permissable range to OK! !?? And was different from the first visit. But it was loaded on the second - but does have "self levelling nivomat suspension". So did they just frig the machine to get rid of me...... Oh dear. The next few weeks should tell if it's different again.

Hello and welcome! Nah they are a doddle mate! On the busted one yes perhaps a screwdriver or or similar implement to prise it off. Or push the glass all the way in at the door end and see if you can get your fingers behind it (perhaps gloved :-) ) and pop it off the plastic holder of the motor adjuster.

Hi there Andy! Although mine is petrol, I think it was 2 years ago I was getting a deep ruh ruh noise from ours, when AC on OR in gear, or worse when both situations at idle rpm. Lift the revs and it was better. Anyhow, replaced the alternator as a whole unit, from a place in Chorley, Lancs, and went sweet as you like. But before that I had a hiss / siss, rpm related as yours, which bizarely would go quiet if I dripped water on the belt. Eventually got an idler pulley from the States, couldn't at that point source one over here, as I'd already done the tensioner pulley, and that sorted that out.

Cheers Gordy! I actually popped back into the garage to let them know that no matter what the computer says it's always good to give the customer an honest answer - "Did you take it for a drive as I suggested, as I've had it back before driving off centre?" The correct answer was - "No". In fairness to them they offered to look at it immediately - as I'd already said we were setting off home - if we could spare an hour. So they did, and it's now driving in a straight line again. And also didn't seem to be scrubbing the tyres on the 125 mile trip home. I'll try to keep it updated! I feel like I will buy a camber checking tool anyway !!!!!

Try www.wheelfitment.eu it will give you PCD, offset, centre bore and all the other info you need!

Mine does a similar thing, if I don't press on the brake quite hard enough, but I guess from the wording you have tried pressing really hard and it still does it? And as a coincidence I've just done the water pump! Leaking from the shaft in my case, only 3 years old too.

I know it's a very old post but my bugger is doing it again. Fitted new wishbones, drop links & anti roll bar bushes mid 2017, eventually got it set so it drives straight ahead and seemed OK. But now it's scrubbing outsides on fronts again. ..... Just on hols in pwllheli so had the guys who set it beautifully 2 years ago check it - and now it's worse, for chuffs sake. Steering slightly right for straight ahead. But the print says the camber is not spot on the middle of the range, well within limits though, so I'm planning on buying a gauge and bugger about with it myself. Initially I'm thinking it was new parts related, but as I said above it had done it when we got it, then fine after setting. And fine after reset after new complete struts. Oh and it's still on the same make and size of tyres - so not part of the equation sadly.

Yep you're quite right, that could be one of a few problems fuel related, if I remember my reading correctly a suspect towards the top of the list would be the fuel filter housing / seal. But do search the forum, it's covered in a few similar posts recently.

I know how you feel! Our 2002 3.3 went to the dismantlers last week, still got the 2005 - so far!

IF it fixes the problem I'd do a transmission fluid (ATF+4 ONLY) and filter after. If it doesn't fix the ungrateful thing then flip a coin- it could help anyway. I have just done the solenoids pack on my 2005 3.3 petrol, bit of an awkward access job even with battery and coolant expansion bottle removed! The timing belt and water pump are the other side of the engine so not really a bearing on this job for them.

Oh indeed as QinreQ says there's plenty of possibilities sadly. On the Kia it felt like fuel, but then when - without touching anything fuel related - simply a helping hand from my OLD van battery on jump leads had it fire up easily I kind of went away from that thought process!

I'm surprised the diesel owners haven't chipped in yet, but even though the voltage seems OK on the battery, it could still be the battery - ultra common problem with them. It may have volts but if it's a bit old it will lose its cranking amp capacity so just won't cut it. I used this information on a Kia Sedona WAV 2.9 diesel we've just got, Yuasa 700cca battery was only 1.5 years old! It cranks over seemingly fast enough but could take a bit to catch depending on how it felt. But a battery charger on it, and then full of beans it would start straight away. So I bought a new 800cca battery - much better. But can STILL play up.....

Hello and welcome! Jolly good of you to offer! Shame that I'm not a bit closer!