bignev

Who knows. It was 4 years ago and he was never heard from again.

A world of mither. Search long threads from long ago, AndyB tried, he's an electronics engineer, it's a world of mither. Amplifier can be located anywhere they felt like on the day it was made. Just don't. Sorry!

Hi there, I think it's just a bit of a coincidence, sadly, as the gearbox has input and output speed sensors on the 41TE auto on ours, and to my knowledge that's how it gets the feed for the speedometer. However, I stand to be corrected!! The wheel sensors are for the abs system. So it's very odd your speedo is now out of sync. Perhaps the old trick of disconnecting the battery for half an hour might help the electronic brains to reset? @gordy may have an idea on it? Hey pal!!?

Yeah..... I don't know if you are using your phone or not, but if you look at the forum on a laptop, you'll see the dates on replies and sections. The 5th generation is a very inactive section. I used to think it was because they were more reliable than the 4th Gen, which are ruddy awful, but maybe it's because there are so few of them. Anyway, good luck with it!

Hi there! I thought they were for the rad fans, but that's just from reading on here, mine's a petrol model. So, you've had the cheek to fix something on it, now the car clearly wants more attention. Mine always does. However, try the easy, quite often successful, trick of removing the IOD fuse for around 30 minutes, and it resets the Body Control Module. Let us know how you go on!

look at www.rockauto.com and it's the Town & Country model

Glad you got that one sorted! Yes, it really is one thing leading to another non these ungrateful toads of cars. Certainly mine is.

If there was little to no resistance, its probably touched valves sadly. And turning an eigth of a turn on the cam shafts then getting resistance could be normal, as in valves getting pushed down and touching a piston. But other than that standard knowledge, unfortunately I can't help you further, sorry!

Hi there! Yes, try looking at rockauto.com they will easily ship from the US to the UK, just had a look and for a 2001 Voyager, not Town & Country that's the Grand Voyager, they have several different suppliers available. Quite often you need to play around with the site, as some things are MUCH less carriage than others, same item from a different supplier. The one I came up with was a UAC part number CN4957PFC, and with all carriage and duties paid you could have it in 3 days on FedEx for a total of £136.29. Some of the others may be even cheaper!! Good Luck

Great stuff! Well done!

DOUBLE POST!

Hi there! From the photo, not the diagram, I think that part is at the back left of the engine when looking into the engine bay, as it looks like it's near the brake master cylinder. In which case, it's at the back of the water pump. I have had at least 3 on mine, in 8 years. The rubber cap however, I sorted out with a silicone hoses cap, I'm sorry but I can't remember the size. I do remember trying to put a clamp on the original and made it leak faster!! I had to take off the original, measure it - not easy - then order up the new one. I may have got the other sizes close to what I thought, as they weren't expensive, to know once I got under it again I'd be able to do it. Good luck!

Hi there! I presume that you mean the boot / tailgate lift motor? Nope, not common, I don't recall ever hearing of that failure on here. I'd get one from a breaker as you say, if lasts a few years then it might outlast the rest of the car! Or if you're definitely in it to keep it going for the long term, get 2! BUT - my tailgate will open by hand, and stay open, nothing to do with the motor, so maybe what you actually need is the gas struts that support it when it's open.

Have you tried Rockauto in the USA?

I would have thought that an ABS fault code should be readable by any good OBD2 reader? You could risk a tenner on one of the wifi items on ebay, I did, works on my Subaru, but I haven't had the need to try it on my Voyager, which isn't the same as yours so the result wouldn't be relevant sadly.

If it's a petrol, just get the scuttle panel off and get stuck in. I've done ours twice. not too hard, but a bugger to get the belt back on!!

I thought my van took a lot at 8 litres!!! But that gets 10w40 semi synthetic, buy it in 20 litre drums and changed way too often, and flushed. Get that horrible soot contaminated oil out! I've had it 17 years, from new, and it's had a great many oil changes, so it's not a risky thing to do, I'm not going to dislodge any massive built up sludge! As there isn't any! The inside of my engine is nice and clean!! I also buy the 5w30s from my local autofactors in 20 litre drums, it's still dear even that way at £80 recently. It was £66 start of last year. It's not a big name brand, however it does meet all current specs, and it doesn't stay in either of my cars for more than 5000 miles, that's just my choice. I've had something similar on the oil warning light, with oil getting too thin when really hot, but at lower revs, a few years ago on a Subaru Impreza WRX. An oil and filter change sorted it, but that was a very high performance turbo engine, I had used an everyday synthetic oil of the correct grade that was not up to the job. I went back to Mobil 1 Motorsport, can't remember the grade but quite thick, maybe 15w50. It went 11 years ago to make way for our first GV when our twins were on the way. Half the horsepower, and twice the weight.... Our petrol Grand Voyager did the opposite when the pressure switch was failing, on at low revs but fine at higher rpm. I deduced it wasn't the oil pump as there was no oil on the dipstick while the engine was running so it was clearly pumping it around at idle!

On my petrol engine, that has an oil pressure switch, not sensor, so it's either happy or not, it doesn't read the pressure it just makes the circuit if it reaches the pre set value. Till it fails!! And of course it did. Got more likely to put the light on over a few weeks, but I knew the oil pump was working, as the oil level on the dipstick dropped lots when the engine was running, so I didn't panic! I don't know where it is on the diesel, sadly. Easy ish on mine, front of block behind rad.

You could well be unlucky and yes the transmission has given up, but maybe not. Possibly start with clutching at straws, a fluid change, and maybe Lucas transmission additive, it's supposed to help with older boxes and the clutch parts. On the OBD reading, there are now very cheap little boxes on ebay that work, plug in to the port and it sets up a local wifi field. Load the app and you're good to go! It will read loads of parameters and the codes, not sure on a GV if it would read transmission codes, it did on my Subaru of the same year, but that doesn't mean a thing with Chrysler! Obviously it won't do some stuff, but they are CHEAP, so well worth a try. I paid around £10, yes that's not a typo, TEN POUNDS.

Marvellous!!

Hi guys! In answer to the question, does anyone have a perfect GV? We had one close to it, a 2002 3.3 petrol. Bought it at 10 years old, 66,000 miles, one owner, proper full service records. The LX low spec model.... So, for 3 years, mint!! Then it had a little electronic fall out with the TCM and BCM. In short, never bottomed it. Had second gear, reverse, neutral and park. Then ot went for parts. On this subject, is the turbo inlet pipe rubber? Or any on the inlet side? If so , check it hasn't de-laminated and on full boost - read suction - is collapsing in on itself. I've heard of it a couple of times on other cars. This will obviously not give any fault codes as nothing electronic has gone tits up. There is usually a MAF sensor (air flow rate) on the inlet side, a MAP sensor for the positive side (Manifold Absolute Presuure), and boost pressure sensors. But not usually anything to sense the suction side negative pressure......

Hi there @majicmanda! By sheer chance I spotted your post, in the 300C section! Anyway, if you find this reply, I would either try your local autofactors, or ebay -probably easier and cheaper now there are not many of these around at all!

If you look inside the lid, on mine, it has a printed layout to ID them all. Hopefully the diesel does too.

Or perhaps easier to take a feed from the cigar lighter supply that's on with the ignition? Not the other that's permanently live!

Hidden behind the glove box?