bignev

On the Kia 3 were fairly easy - ish to get out, 2 of them did require an injector removal kit (usual auction / buy it now site - £45) with a slide hammer though, but 3 out in one evening. They are Delphi, with an M14 thread on the top of them so a doddle to get the adaptor on. The 4th one however, the one with the ton of leak off naturally, took many attempts to eventually get it out, and going back downwards a little (which I really did not want to do given how much effort it took to get it up the first 25mm) and soaking it with WD40 hoping some would get down the sides. And i managed to strip the thread on the adaptor of the kit! I'm stronger than I thought but they sent a replacement bit PDQ so Friday evening I got at it, up, down a bit, got frustrated and angry gave it everything I had and it started to finally come up a bit more. So after a breather more welly and out it came, at last. One of my neighbours is a mechanic (not too generous with his time though - disappointing after I've fixed his boiler a couple of times) and lent me a little wire brush device to clean up the bore for the injector body. It has a rod with a brass ferule on the end that fits in the nozzle hole to stop crud ending in the bores. So far so good, it keeps starting up really easily at the minute, but I'm never too sure I'm out of the woods till a while later! Doesn't spew black smoke like a Klingon cloaking device now either

Hi there! Try wheelfitment.eu this should help you!

FINALLY got the last injector to come out, oh my word it was stuck, I actually wrecked the thread on the ball joint of the slide hammer so that delayed it a couple of day but they sent me a new one no quibble. So 2nd hand ones fitted tonight and test drive and possibly hopefully maybe (supersticious me? oh yes!) it's got it sorted, I hope the bugger still co-operates in the morning!

The reason I ask about easy start is related to the injectors. Following on from the comments I made in #2 on 3rd June, our Kia Sedona 2.9 got worse, after it started 1st time in the day it would be a sod to start again without a whiff of help. After I did a leak off test it identified 3 knackered injectors, but it ran really well when it was running, apart from lots of black smoke..... All of them peed through fuel, so much in less than a minute so I had to stop the test! So tonight I have finally finished the job of 4 2nd hand injectors, and it's seeming to be sorted - we'll recheck that in the morning!!

Will it start if you use easy start

I should have proof read mine a bit more, laughed at it just now, "not a typo" then the words and figures are different ? But it was 120 ml. Got 3 out, 2 with the slide hammer 1 easy peasy. Away for weekend so will keep you guys in the laughing loop next week.

Absolutely excellent matey!!

Hi pal, from what I read of most of the guys who've tried it - NOPE not easy, but I'm sure they'll always be an exception, hopefully you're going to be it!! And hopefully those connector adaptors work well. Do your speakers have "Infinity" on them? If so then pretty sure you've got the Chrysler amp hidden in the back somewhere, could be either side, they couldn't make their minds up. That'll make it interesting, one I'll stay away from - I'm not that good with that kind of thing usually!

On our Kia Sedona we have developed a similar problem, but I can at least get it going by a quick squirt of easy start / brake cleaner into the air inlet duct at the from grille. I did a leak off test and in less than ONE minute I got quite a lot from 3 injectors. I switched it off as one was around 120ml. Yes seriously @@andyb2000 one hundred and fifty it's not a typo!!!!! Second hand set on the way, along with an injector extractor kit, here's hoping!! So the suggestion from the above is try easy start or similar.

Don't know on that one, unless it's so brief it didn't register on the meter.

If you are talking about the locking actuator, the simplest thing to do is get the one off the other door and try it, they are the same with the arm being handed, but if it twitches and is unable to pull the latch up or down it's pretty much certainly dead. They can usually be had new off ebay for sensible money.

Ah - I've seen a few for sale with games systems fitted, wonder if it could be that, but having had the consoles removed?

Hi and welcome! You'll get more replies in the technical help section pal, and sadly I've no idea, mines out mostly with the Mrs recently but don't recall having them. Are they round like the audio plugs on the lower multi changer dvd? If you have that system of course! That may have been fitted by a previous owner.

Hi there! If it's a petrol lots of stuff is available from Rockauto in the USA, online ordering piece of cake and mostly fast delivery too. Or Mopar wholesale, also USA. Like a lot of stuff in life, it comes up when someone is selling, but might be on their list of jobs to get round to, get rid of that part etc, or contact some of the breakers who list on eBay.

Depends on your driving pattern / distances but it could be!! Have you ever reset it? If not it won't change much as it is an average calculation, it will take a lot to move it after a lot of miles.

Hi there @@Reddavey any updates for us pal?

Hope the gearbox oil change went ok today pal! We'll need the diesel owners to confirm but if it follows the pattern on the 3.3 petrol its a tensioner bearing, so it's a matter of release the tension (don't know on the diesel - 1/2" socket set arm in the tensioner on mine) get belt far enough off off, gently let go of the tool, old belt fully off, thread the new belt around, then move the tensioner again to get the belt on the last bit. Mine was easier from underneath - jacked up well - and last pulley on was the AC at the front.

Aha!! Smarty!

Now this is a guess - but if they have separate expansion valves,that would be a possibility, I would think they should have individual ones as they will not necessarily be requiring the same cooling duty.

Yes and leave all corner bolts in the sump till you break the seal or it will piss all over when it gushes out suddenly!! Well mine did!!!!! Yep I agree, the twice I've done it (no surprise oiling the 2nd time though) I used normal automotive RTV silicone.

Well chuffing heck how odd, but no water on the floor before now, ruddy car Well, mine is petrol, so no intercooler either, but it's one job I didn't actually do myself, my twins were very young at the time, but my mate never mentioned having to take the condenser coil out, and definitely didn't regas the AC.

Hmmm very strange, not heard of that if the vac is working. Try an experiment - with the engine off, pump the pedal up to hard, then with your foot on it start the engine, if the vac assistance is working properly then the pedal will go down and softer.

On my 2005, the fixing unscrews a fair way to release the fixing, then the cross rail slides forwards along the roof rail to the front, and slides out to remove after you take the plastic cover off the end.

Yes indeed you are correct, it's a 2005 3.3. But the mk 5 had the 3.8 petrol option, jolly rare unit.

Good stuff matey! But such a shame they didn't "fess up" when you went first time instead of trying to spank your wallet, and wonder why are we mostly cynical and untrusting of garages we haven't got a relationship with. Same in my profession though, heating and gas engineer.Loads of guys might as well roll up on a horse called Trigger with their (lack of) tools in their pocket. Couldn't fix a McDonald's happy meal toy half of them.