bignev

Oh bummer pal that's not fair at all. After the time and effort you've given it too. Really sorry to hear it. And holy pooe yep those bearings are a little bit more than normal wear. I must have done really well with mine, the 2002 3.3 I had, I put it on Gumtree and a dismantler, not scrapper, contacted me and gave me £250. Are there any remotely near you?

Yep that's a problem then pal. Either, or both, of the means of escape for the water, to get as much of any sediment out of the system. I suppose you could get a bucket and keep refilling with a jug but not nearly as quickly effective.

Hiya pal, Just use the tap water for the flushing as it's coming out again. Follow our fellow member QinteQ's list in #7, not "fill run drain fill" steps it'll keep contaminating whatever goes in for absolutely ages. Start off I suppose if you're worried with the bottom hose loose, with water coming out, and put a garden hose in the expansion bottle and keep it flowing through. If it gets fairly clear then run the engine briefly to circulate, then repeat. Then try to follow QinteQ's list. It will work loads better.

Excellent!

HI there and welcome! I can answer the first one - as I don't lock ours behind doors in the car port - nope it won't go off, opening doors or anything.

Yep - you will need a good auto locksmith who will sort that in no time - with no damage to the car. And you will then have a spare key if you get him to do it while he's getting you in!!!!

I'd suggest your local tyre depots for advice on it - doesn't seem anyone has experience of this sadly.

Oil filler cap on my 3.3 petrol says 5w20!!!!!!! I do have the handbook and it can be almost anything in this country with our temperatures. So I use 5w30 because I can buy that anywhere, I've used my local autofactors standard stock fully synthetic stuff, Granville oils last 2 times at around 3000 to 4000 miles, as it has been doing way too many - way too short journeys with my Mrs, to her mums and hospital appointments. It had also been using a bit more too recently, which I am GUESSING is down to the clearances being larger in the engine when it's cold.

I assume you're talking about a diesel, I've not got one on a Chrysler, but got one on my 2.5 Renault Master, been on for 12 years, Had one on a Mazda 6 2.0 sport - massive difference, Ford Galaxy 1.8 - slight improvement, Kia Sedona 2.9 - good improvement. I all except the van I barely had any difference in the fuel consumption, but lots more torque, the van is slightly better with it on.

Ah now am I right that this version was built in Europe, like mine, so that would be why they've listed the Euro standard after their preferred API one?! Got to comply for the world's markets hey!! Either way, I agree, for these, fully synthetic, change it often enough, not on mileage as QinteQ says, keep it sweet! Oil is less mither, & cheaper, than repairs, probably anyway! Condensation forms in engine and exhaust on cold start up that is only evaporated off if it gets hot enough. That's then water in the oil if not - tiny amount each time though.

Ah now am I right that this version was built in Europe, like mine, so that would be why they've listed the Euro standard after their preferred API one?! Got to comply for the world's markets hey!! Either way, I agree, for these, fully synthetic, change it often enough, not on mileage as QinteQ says, keep it sweet! Condensation forms in engine and exhaust on cold start up that is only evaporated off if it gets hot enough. That's then water in the oil if not - tiny amount each time though.

Hi there and welcome! A mate of mine runs TVM motors, service and MOT station, behind Meadow Mill, just behind the Tesco at Portwood. When my girls were small he did what I couldn't find time for, and does the stuff I can't do, or don't have the kit for, now. Tony isn't a Chrysler specialist but is ruddy good, he is dead genuine, we've only known him for 18 years!! And his code reader kit will read everything on my 2005, including the transmission.

Well I'll join you in being confused - I thought I would just take a look for a tank fuel pump for the 2007 1.8 galaxy, and there are some supposedly for sale too on ebay!!!!! Yet there was no buzzing or whirring noise on ignition, my mate who worked for Ford didn't reckon they had one, and it would never, ever, ever pump fuel back up to the filter. It took a lot of suction on the fuel rail to get it to pull through and run again after a filter change. The Kia was a ruddy doddle, pump back up with the primer and off it would go. So yours then - yes, you do have a high pressure fuel pump, it's located on the engine and driven by belt while the engine is running. On the relay - buggered if I know hee hee But did you see how they tested the leak off?? How much fuel was going out of the "return" connection on the injectors? Check the new fuel filter housing for any tiny air leaks, to enable it to drain fuel back to the tank which is what we don't want. If the button primer is soft when you start it does seem to point to something in that area. The Kia went soft too, but the injectors were totally trashed, and it needed a whiff of something to get it to fire up. A push bike would be less of a headache than these ruddy things Might struggle with the wife, kids & luggage though.

Not to criticize too much your mechanics, but my Galaxy 2007 and Sedona 2005 manage it with just the fuel pump on the engine............ And these guys have sorted out a good many problems with starting and running on diesel Grand Voyagers (mines a lovely clean burning LPG model, not a sooty diesel :-)). However - I just had a look on ebay and also saw an add for an "in tank fuel pump for a 2.8 TDI". Did you see the result of the leak off tests?

Hmm if it's driving fine on gears then it's not too probable to be gearbox. I wonder if it had gone to "limp" mode which is low (2nd I believe) gear. Which might have been why it was revving it's tatties off, only maybe, but surely that would have caused a fault code..... So how did the RAC man come up with his low presssure fuel fault with no codes??????....... In fairness my Sedona had no codes for the bad starting but failed miserably a leak off test. Does yours have a fuel primer bulb in the engine bay? If so try pumping that up to hard immediately before trying to start it. Will it go hard? If not then it's got an air leak somewhere or fuel leak back problem

As the posts at the start, it's supposed to be always on unless you use the rocker switch. Or there is a problem. I wonder if he ever got it sorted.... Yet another lack of information and feedback if it did or didn't get fixed! Any warning lamps on the dash lit? Try the key dance - turn to "on" 3 times in rapid succession not starting it, 3rd time leave in that position then it should hopefully give some code on the trip display to start us with.

Yep that's right for the Sachs, they are a bit less on Rockauto but not a hundred quid a pair! :- ) Many trinkets have appeared in my garage too over the years - some she knows about ha ha! Keep us posted how they perform pal!

Oh dear this is very much going to need a lot of further investigation, I'll start the questions rolling - Once it's started will it drive? Does the transmission fluid smell burnt? Is it correct level? I know my fault code reading with a similar wording was on a Kia, but that turned out to be the injectors, not starting without easy start. Our diesel GV chaps are more expert and will also help soon I'm sure!

Hey up guys yes you're both correct, Sachs self levelling - Nivomat - and replacements are available but bloody expensive. Those are a load bigger diameter body than usual hey Andy!! I got a set of 4 bushes from Jeep Chrysler parts last year for £40, plus I invested in new tool for the garage - a 12 ton press for £90 off ebay hee hee - the Mrs took the piss something rotten - again. Probably a 6 ton would have been fine, but hardly any price difference so lets go large!!! Or there are some KYB options on Rockauto at £163 each, 2 mopar ones left at £154 each. Plus carriage and import duty of course. Better than last year when I could only find them about £200 each - making the press plus bushes a bargain investment. It's not that bad a job with a press - press out the centre piece, use a junior hacksaw so I could get the blade in the middle, cut the rubber out, cut 2 slots in the outer metal of (whats left in my case) the bush, belt that bit out, clean it up and press the new ones in. Doddle..... So then as you say the shocks look like they are not long for this world, if the KYB you have are the same overall length, and only a tiny bit shorter on the shaft for suspension travel, so hopefully shouldn't bottom out before the bump stop, and they were cheap enough, it would in my world be worth a "suck it and see" experiment. And you could then have a look at those originals at your leisure!!

Yep too right unfortunately! Sadly even some older guys seem to have lost the ability to figure out problems by working through. I bloke I know has worked for main stealers for too many years and can't remember how to actually fix stuff, simply doing what the technical bulletin or flow chart says. He wasn't aware of the AC pressures, thought it was the sensor, on my Galaxy, but didn't think to put the gauge on the cars next to it - to get the same "high" reading when not running. Thankfully I did.

Hi There! Try www.wheelfitment.eu for the information!! Cheers!

Hi @@sak12345 pal see my response in the technical help forum! And now I've read this my comment on the battery is far more important!!

Hi @@sak12345, have you checked the battery is charged? Has it started since you lost the remote? Or was it armed then you lost it? But - not sure - I think once the key has been in the ignition in the ON position a few seconds the immobiliser ring recognises it, and the red LED lamp should go out, then should turn over. And as I was typing that my memory recalled that it will turn over and start even with the wrong key - yes it will I had 2 GV's and did this - but will only run for a couple of seconds then cut out. Worried the poop out of me till I took a proper look at the key then had a laugh how daft I was. You can get a second hand remote, and have it coded into the car by a good AUTO LOCKSMITH, not just auto electrician, although they may well be able to do that. Again I have had this done. Memory is faded but certainly under £100 including the fee he had to pay for a code number for my ECU. Plus obviously the remote itself which I supplied.

Excellent!! We can eliminate that horrible option from the possible faults, marvelous! I can only pass on what I have learned and experienced and hope it helps out others! And, like the rest of us on here, I also hope it avoids some of us getting ripped off by parties who would be quite happy to play expensive "parts darts" games with these things, as they're not as predictable as some makes of car. Or just take the P. Sometimes if it's cheap enough and results in having followed a logical path a part is worth a "punt", but if possible test stuff first. As pointed out in the other post a coil is an example of that, it can test out ok, but still not perform on load. Did you mean leads and coil by the way? Having already done the plugs!

No pal not sounding thick at all - you can obviously think about the function well! Good one you tested for the plugs, also engine temp will affect how wet they will be, as it will be running rich on a cool engine. Yes it is right if the spark timing is out it could have a huge loss of power - going back to the good old days of distributors and points / condensers, if the points were out a bit, they would really struggle. I know my bikes did!! I don't have the knowledge of modern computer engine management to figure or know how it can be adjusted, it's supposed to be clever and sort itself out when it has the information from the sensors........ Weak sparks also don't do well under compression. Maybe a coil section is breaking down, mine spotted a misfire and gave up a code, P0304. But it was a very noticeable misfire in my case. I got a coil from fleabay for £35, possibly worth a gamble? Maybe a set of leads for £15 to £18? Can you get / borrow a compression tester?