bignev

Aww bugger I'm not special!!!!! The wife laughed when I showed her the message! Cheeky.

Good idea if you're over there! Sadly most of us aren't, so shipping is a no choice situation - wherever in the US, or world even, it's from. For a fair few parts I've had it was still well under UK prices. Like 2 ignition coils for £50. £70 each at motor factors. And having had a Blueprint one fail after a year I thought I'd get a standby for the £16.75 they were. I'm sure it wouldn't work out for bigger / heavier items, a mid section silencer for my 3.3 stow n go was £250 carriage, strangely I didn't go for it !! Moparwholesale are another one I've looked at, but rockauto had more choice than just OEM obviously.

They are listed as an option on the rockauto site so should be fine. On a mechanical point, as long as the plug thread doesn't protrude in past the head they shouldn't be a problem. If it does then after a while, when there is carbon build up on the tread, removing the plugs could damage the thread in the head.

First off it's worth a try at removing the "IOD" fuse in the fuse box in the engine bay, left side wing (drivers side on LHD - of yours is of course!). Leave it out for 20 to 30 minutes and it might just reset things for you! Or disconnect the battery instead, or afterwards if the first doesn't work!

I've double checked mine and the revs drop only slightly, maintaining some level of engine braking. As well as keeping the engine / gearbox speeds close so when you get back on the pedal there isn't a physical impact as the drive takes up again. Fairly sure all 3 of my petrols have done the same. And it's the same 41TE gearbox as yours.

There we are then - see I wasn't totally sure as I said!!

Hi there! You need to do the "key dance" to get any available codes if there are any. Put key in the ignition, from the off position turn to "ON" (NOT the cranking position) back to off then on, then off then on, at the 3rd "on" stop, and observe what the odometer does, it should, if there are any to be had, scroll through fault codes. See if they tie up with what you've already found. And please report back to us!And we'll do what we can to assist.

Hi there and welcome! Yes I have noticed that some years ago when I was looking for them, and also on autotrader. Differences are as QinteQ says, plus: The rear panel at low level, between the rear wheel and sliding door, is only just about 2", not 9". So your pictures look like Grand Voyager, Voyager, Grand Voyager. Although it says it on the boot of the car, the last picture is not that clear so not totally sure. Wheel bases are 113" for Voyager and 119" for the Grand Voyager. Not completely sure but I didn't think the Voyagers had electric sliding doors - but that is NOT definite, there could always be exceptions for factory orders from new I reckon.

Yes pal very good chance lots of stuff will interchange! Depends what you're after achieving, but take a look on moparwholesaleparts.com and rockauto.com for some info.

Just had a quick look and a pair of brand new headlights can be had from rockauto.com from under £100 delivered in 4 to 5 days.

Oh yes I can actually guess how cheap some stuff is from over there, I just had an ignition coil from rockauto at £16.75, over here £70 ish, cheapest on ebay £40. But you can of course order most things from rockauto.com and depending how fast you need it delivery can be quite reasonable, take a look.

They will usually change and sound a chirp if the alarm has sounded in your absence, but should revert to normal after switching off next time. So it's a bit strange why it's doing it when you lock up. But try pulling out the "IOD" fuse for half an hour to reset things, it might help, maybe not.

Wasn't made by Chrysler was it

I have a Grand Voyager auto not a Sebring, but still an auto, have you checked that your brake light switch is working? I think this is part of the circuit that releases the mechanical stopper on the lever. The GVs make a click noise when in park and you put your foot on the brake to bring it out.

I reckon that the inline Renault thermostat is the future, well on diesels!! Complete doddle on the petrol. Sorry fellas, something has got to make up for the totally awful fuel consumption hey!

Welcome aboard! They are pretty jolly good aren't they!! When they're not messing you about......

My apologies for asking @@andyb2000 but did you try the job with the wiper scuttle removed? It looks like it's a sod of a job regardless. I ask because the first time I changed the spark plugs on one I struggled like a git, for the rear 3, and even my friendly mechanic didn't know of it when he did the power steering pump. We both do now, and both of those jobs are a LOT easier even I did the steering pump last June (ish) myself without major injuries or hassle!

This might help depending on what year yours is of course! My 2005 3.3 has a separate motor for the front and rear, both on the bottle under the drivers side (rhd) wheel arch.

Hi there! Have you confirmed it by swapping another relay around ? It's quite possible I have a spare as I bought the whole IPM last year while investigating a fault, but I'm working away and not back till Thursday 17th. I can check when I get back for you!

Hi guys! i got round to swapping the actuator today, while doing a couple of other bits like some exhaust repair paste on a hole in the middle silencer, hoping to get a bit longer out of it because as it's a stow n go I haven't yet found an aftermarket one (can find diesel ones). I can get a stainless steel one made & fitted fairly locally but am reluctant to spend money on the ungrateful sod of a machine. Put a new radiator on in the middle of November then the ignition coil goes one week later, at only 4 months old. I sent it back and got a refund no problem, just ruddy mither. New coil from the States in 2 days! Then changed the front drop links as one end of the nearside has gone, and noisy, significantly, after only 18 months. They were bought from Jeep Chrysler parts who are pretty good, so that was disappointing. But an easy job. So anyway I would guess you have done yours by now! Hey @@CJE ! Give a reply how it went?! But for others the removal of the door card is a Philips screw in the recessed handle / "ash tray" at the top of the door, pop off the surround for the rubber bumper, then start at the bottom and (loudly!) pop off the door card, raise it over the locking knob, release from the upper window surround and it's away. It has a heavy plastic sheet behind this, and a polystyrene block, presumably for a bit of noise insulation. A little torx screw to release the actuator from the door, slide forward a little, release the door knob rod from the clip on the actuator, remove the electrical connector and you're away. Refitting is not simply a reversal as you need to ensure the arc of the arm on the actuator is situated on the little barrel that is part of the door closer cinch motor, otherwise it won't disable this when "locked" and the opener button will operate. And it's hidden well, but isn't hugely difficult to feel for. The actuators are the same both sides, but the arm is handed. The ones I have bought came with both arms each time.

Good on all counts of the head gasket tests then, excellent. Are you still getting the P0301 code? The first time mine went I got the code for cylinder 4, this time just got P0300 misfire on multiple cylinders, tested out like it too! Poor spark on 3, very bright spark on the others. It would seem sensible that as they are a "wasted spark" type coil the misfire would relate to 2 cylinders, but in my cars experience that isn't the case.

Great stuff thanks for the update!! I had no idea what on earth was going on with that, coming back and letting us know adds to our collective "database"! Cheers!!

Hi there! Have you got white emulsified oil? Or oily deposits in the rad? Test the spark with an old lead and plug if you have them, one at a time, sit the plug on top of the cross member and observe the spark. I had far more severe symptoms on mine, but 3 were crap sparks, and it just went suddenly, ok on the trip out, garbage on start up to come home. If not try a new ignition coil - rockauto.com from the States can be cheaper than the UK!! I have just bought TWO coils, as mine went, after only 5 months, delivered in 3 days, for £70.00, all duties paid. Or of course ebay. If you were closer you could borrow one of mine!! Just taken a quick look on ebay and £35.95 from Telford inc delivery, bargain.

Yes that's the actuator, and you must have cursed mine maxcaddy!! It's started doing that very loud buzzing when it locks!! But not when unlocking.... So a new one is here for when I can get the time!! I can't remember accurately but there are a "few" Philips head screws, then the door card starts popping off (loudly) from the bottom, then lifts up over the door locking pin and window ledge and away. Quite probably there will be some Town & Country versions jobs on youtube of course.

Mine? Front overhead console, above the computer readout stuff.